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As seen in previous articles, a Hotend is composed of a Nozzle that takes care of depositing the molten material, a Heatblock that takes care of melting the material and a Heatbreak that keeps the hot zone separate from the cold zone of the Hotend. In particular, the PTFE tube is installed at the stop with the Nozzle, so that the filament reaches the Nozzle directly from the PTFE, without intermediate zones. However, if there is even a slight gap between PTFE and Nozzle, then the molten filament will come out of the intended path and will clog the melting area, thus causing obstructions and blockages that prevent the correct execution of the print.

Thanks to its ease of installation and different design technology, a Hotend such as the Hotend Trianglelab TCHC TR6 Model B can efficiently solve the problem, as it is a Hotend with Bi-Metal thin wall Heatbreak; in this way the PTFE tube is not in contact with the hot Nozzle, but stops high in the Heatsink, where the temperature is cold. Therefore, the filament passes from PTFE to Bi-Metal thin wall heatbreak while it is still solid, and so no leakage of molten material can occur. In addition, the Bi-Metal thin wall Heatbreak is welded inside the Nozzle already at the factory, and therefore it is not possible for molten material to leak between the Bi-Metal thin wall Heatbreak and the Nozzle.

This means that once out of the PTFE tube, the filament must first pass through a metal area in order to reach the nozzle. This means that heat is transmitted to the filament more optimally, as there is no PTFE tube to act as an insulator, and therefore the filament melts more smoothly  effectively, which is a huge advantage when printing technical filaments such as PETG and ABS that require high printing temperatures. On the other hand, due to the improved heat transfer with Hotbed All Metal, compared to printing via Hotend with PTFE it is necessary to adjust some parameters in the slicer.

One of the first parameters to change might be the retract parameter. In fact, due to the increased heat diffusion, too high a retraction value could cause the molten filament to clog in a cold area of the Hotend. Therefore, compared to printing via PTFE Hotend with PTFE, it is preferable to reduce the retraction value by at least 2 points (e.g. from 6mm to 4mm) by using an All Metal Hotend Press.

Another parameter that you may need to change is the print temperature. In fact, thanks to the increased heat diffusion, reducing the printing temperature by about 5°C could provide benefits, especially in the case of printing with PLA.

Heat dissipation in the Heatbreak area is also very important, as due to the increased heat diffusion it is necessary to prevent the heat from rising up the Hotend. Therefore, it is necessary to install a high-performance fan that can effectively and quickly cool the Heatbreak, and therefore the installation of the Longer Dual Blower is absolutely recommended if you are using an All Metal Hotend such as the Hotend Trianglelab TCHC TR6 Model B.

Once the changes have been made in the slicing software, you can finally proceed with the first test print. Surely further corrections may be necessary in case of printing with PLA, but as far as filaments such as PETG and ABS are concerned, there will certainly be an improvement from the first print. In particular, the Test Benchy in white was made of PLA, while the one in red was made of PETG; although generic parameters have been used, as indicated above, the print quality has certainly improved compared to that previously obtained through Hotend with PTFE.

The Hotend is the part of an FDM 3D printer that deals with the melting and deposition of molten plastic material. A Hotend consists of a Nozzle that deals with depositing the molten material, a Heatblock that deals with the melting of the material and a Heatbreak that keeps the hot zone separate from the cold zone of the Hotend. The Heatbreak can be equipped with a heat sink, which in turn is equipped with a fan.

When assembling a Hotend, care must be taken to ensure that the PTFE tube is in beating with the Nozzle. This implies that the PTFE tube is inserted inside the Heatbreak, then the filament flows inside the PTFE tube and reaches the Nozzle directly, without intermediate zones; therefore, it is essential that the PTFE is tightly tightened and joined to the Nozzle, so that the filament flows forcibly through the exit hole of the Nozzle. In the event that there is even a slight gap between PTFE and Nozzle, then leakages of molten filament from the top edge of the Heatblock can occur, causing fillings and damage to both the print and the printer.

In addition, the PTFE tube, in the part in contact with Nozzle and Heatblock, tends to reach the same melting temperature set for the filament, however this is not a problem as PTFE supports temperatures up to 300C very well before melting, well beyond the normal printing temperatures of PLA, PETG and ABS. On the other hand, the higher the printing temperature, the greater the amount of heat that the Heatbreak must dissipate; in fact, when the heat is not dissipated properly, it tends to rise inside the PTFE causing the filament to melt in areas far from the nozzle, resulting in obstructions that prevent the filament from passing. In addition, the PTFE tube inside the Heatbreak also begins to lose its characteristics, thus causing obstructions. For this reason, it is necessary to accompany the Heatbreak with a heatsink with fan, in this way the passage of heat is quickly interrupted.

To solve these two problems, you can switch to a Hotend like the Hotend Trianglelab TCHC TR6 Model B, which is a Hotend with Bi-Metal thin wall Heatbreak; in this way the PTFE tube is not in contact with the hot Nozzle, but stops high in the Heatsink, where the temperature is cold. Therefore, the filament passes from PTFE to Bi-Metal thin wall Heatbreak when it is still solid, and so leakages of molten material cannot occur. In addition, the Bi-Metal thin wall Heatbreak is welded inside the Nozzle already factory, and therefore it is not possible for losses of molten material between the Bi-Metal thin wall Heatbreak and the Nozzle.

With this type of Hotend it is therefore possible to definitively solve two problems that afflict users of a 3D printer, namely the leakage of molten material between PTFE and Nozzle, and the deformation of the PTFE tube due to the high temperatures reached during the printing of materials such as PETG / ABS / NYLON.

The Hotend Trianglelab TCHC TR6 Model B is the same size as the Hotend MK8 of the Longer FDM 3D printers, so the installation is very user friendly and plug & play. The new Hotend fits both the Longer Classic Printhead and the new Longer Dual Blower, although the Longer Dual Blower is recommended as it provides greater heat dissipation of the Heatsink, as it has a much larger fan than normal. For installation, simply remove the print head cover and the fans, then just unscrew the old Hotend MK8 and screw the new Hotend TCHC TR6 Model B. Instead, as regards the connection of the cables, simply connect the two white cables of the heating resistor to the HEATER port on the mainboard, instead or two black cables of the temperature sensor must be connected to the TH port of the mainboard. The most skilled and experienced users can simply cut the cables of the old Hotend and solder them to the cables of the new Hotend.

Once the assembly and calibration procedures have been completed, you can immediately proceed with printing. You may need to reduce the retraction values inside the slicer and adjust small settings, however 3D printing will be much easier and more enjoyable thanks to this anti-leakage and PTFE-free Hotend in the hot zone.

LO 

Some users of Longer FDM printers prefer to use a BL-TOUCH automatic leveling system in order to obtain more precise and higher quality prints, as well as making the printing bed leveling process easier and more immediate.

However, the standard automatic leveling procedure is for the BL-TOUCH sensor to remeasure the plane points before each new print. This procedure takes time, and is often useless, especially in the case of making daily prints, the print bed maintains calibration and the printer is never moved. If these conditions are met, then you can simply recall a previous plan mesh before starting a new print, without the need to create a new one.

If you want to print using the last saved mesh, simply change the START GCODE for BL-TOUCH to the following START GCODE:

-- BL-TOUCH START GCODE --
G21 ; metric values
G90 ; absolute positioning
M82 ; set extruder to absolute mode
M107 ; start with the fan off
; confirm BL-touch safety
M280 P0 S160 ; BL-Touch Alarm release
G4 P100 ; Delay for BL-Touch homing
G28 X0 Y0 ; move X/Y to min endstops
G28 Z0 ; move Z to min endstops
; reconfirm BL-touch safety
M280 P0 S160 ; BL-Touch Alarm realease
G4 P100 ; Delay for BL-Touch
; bed leveling
M420 S1 Z5 ; enable bed leveling
; prepare hot-end
G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder
G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed
G1 X0.1 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to start position

G1 X0.1 Y150.0 Z0.3 F1500.0 E15 ; Draw the first line

G1 X0.4 Y150.0 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to side a little

G1 X0.4 Y20 Z0.3 F1500.0 E30 ; Draw the second line

G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder

G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed

G1 X5 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move over to prevent blob squish
; -- end of BL-TOUCH START GCODE -- 

In this way, printing will start immediately, without mesh the print bed, using the last calibration made. However, sometimes you will need to create a new mesh, especially if the print plate has been moved or if the printer has been moved; in this case, simply create open "Notepad" on your laptop and paste the following GCODE:

; bed leveling
G28 X0 Y0 ; move X/Y to min endstops
G28 Z0 ; move Z to min endstops
G29; Auto leveling
M500 ; save data of G29 and M420
M420 S1 ; enable bed leveling

For last, save the file as levelling.gcode (be careful, do not save as .txt) and copy the GCODE you just created into the microSD of your printer. Whenever it will be necessary to calibrate the printing plate, simply start the GCODE from the printer display, like any other print file, and wait for the measurement to complete.

Longer LK4PRO & LK5PRO are two FDM printers capable of producing high-quality 3D prints. However, you can increase the ease and quality of printing by installing a BL-TOUCH or 3D-TOUCH compatible automatic leveling sensor.

Preparation

• Download and install the Pronterface software on your laptop:

  >>pronterface-windows<<

• Download and 3D print the bracket for BL-TOUCH

  a. >>Bracket for Classic PrintHead<<
  b. >>Bracket for DualBlower<<

• Download and install on your printer the update firmware compatible with BL-TOUCH (check the firmware update manual if you need):

  >>For LK4 PRO Classic PrintHead<<
  >>For LK5 PRO Classic PrintHead<<
  >>For LK4 PRO DualBlower<<
  >>For LK5 PRO DualBlower<<
  
  

• Prepare a USB cable, using a piece of insulating tape, as shown in the figure:

  

Wiring

1. Switch-off the printer
2. Find the position of motherboard, then screw down the mainboard cover
3. Unplug the Z-MIN wire (2-pin) from the mainboard
4. Connect the sensor's cables to the motherboard, as the picture below shows.
   
5. Screw up the mainboard cover
6. Remove the Z endstop switch, as picture showing below
   
7. Screw down the left 2 screws of the printhead module and mount the BL-TOUCH as picture showing below (follow the same step if you have DualBlower)
   

Configuration

• Confirm BL-TOUCH wiring and mounting is complete
• Power ON the printer
• Connect PC and printer with the modified USB cable.
• Open Pronterface software, select serial port (115200 baudrate) and connect it to the printer

Adjusting Z-Offset

1. Clean up bed and nozzle, and ensure no materials stick on 
2. Send M851 Z0 to reset Z offset value.
3. Send G28 to home XYZ axis
4. Send G1 F60 Z0 to lower Z axis to the software origin. 
5. Send M211 S0 to inactivate software endstop function
6. Place a sheet of paper (0.10 mm approximately) on the bed and use Pronterface to lower the nozzle 0.1 mm by 0.1 mm until you feel friction between the nozzle and the sheet of paper (the paper is not to be jammed but not too free either). Then remove the sheet
7. Send M114 to get the current Z height value (usually negative) and take note of it. This is the z-offset value we need
8. Send M851 Z-x.x to set z-offset. (x.x is the value of previous value; for example, if previous value is -1.2, then send M851 Z-1.2.)
9. Send M500 to save current settings
10. Send M211 S1 to reactivate software endstop function. 
11. Send G28 to home XYZ axis
12. Send G1 F60 Z0 to test if the Z axis could go back to the actual Z origin by checking the clearance between the bed and the nozzle if it is about 0.1 mm (the thickness of a sheet of paper). If not, please repeat steps from 1 to 11.

START GCODE replacement

Inside the Slicer software (Cura, Slic3r, Simplify3D), replace the original START GCODE with the following START GCODE for BL-TOUCH.

-- BL-TOUCH START GCODE --
G21; metric values
G90: absolute positioning
M82: Set extruder to absolute mode
M107: start with the fan off
; confirm BL-touch safety
M280 P0 S160 ; BL-Touch Alarm release
G4 P100 ; Delay for BL-Touch homing
G28 X0 Y0 ; move X/Y to min endstops
G28 Z0 ; move Z to min endstops
; reconfirm BL-touch safety
M280 P0 S160 ; BL-Touch Alarm Release
G4 P100 ; Delay for BL-Touch
; bed leveling
G29: Auto leveling
M420 Z5 ; set LEVELING_FADE_HEIGHT
M500: save data of G29 and M420
M420 S1 ; enable bed leveling
; prepare hot-end
G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder
G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; move the Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of the heat bed.
G1 X0.1 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to start position

G1 X0.1 Y150.0 Z0.3 F1500.0 E15 ; Draw the first line

G1 X0.4 Y150.0 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to side a little

G1 X0.4 Y20 Z0.3 F1500.0 E30 ; Draw the second line

G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder

G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; move the Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of the heat bed.

G1 X5 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move over to prevent blob squish
; -- end of BL-TOUCH START GCODE -- 

In general, the choice between PETG and PLA depends on the specific needs of the 3D printing you intend to do. If you want greater impact resistance, flexibility, and chemical resistance, PETG may be your best choice. Instead, if you want a cheap, easy-to-print, and biodegradable material, PLA may be the best choice. In particular, PETG is a very resistant and flexible filament, ideal for printing large-volume objects and resistant to the effects of chemicals such as acids and alkalis; moreover, compared to PLA, PETG is more resistant to heat and less fragile, so it is great for making prints that will be placed outside and exposed to sunlight.

PETG is a copolymer that combines the properties of PET and glycol. The addition of the latter reduces the problems of overheating of PET and, consequently, increases its resistance. For these reasons, PETG is one of the most commonly used filaments and is an excellent choice for printing parts subjected to mechanical stress and heat; moreover, PETG has an almost absent odor during printing, even if it is a material derived from petroleum and therefore not biodegradable.

PLA is a lactic acid polymer and was the second bioplastic marketed and sold on a large scale. It derives from the milling of corn and is to be considered biodegradable, even if it requires precise conditions to trigger the decomposition process. PLA has some advantages over PETG, such as greater ease of printing, greater rigidity, better surface quality, and lower cost, although it fears heat and weathering.

Therefore, summarizing the advantages of PETG over PLA, here is a list of technical characteristics:

• Impact resistance: PETG is more impact resistant than PLA. This means that PETG is less likely to break during use.
• Flexibility: PETG is more flexible than PLA, which makes it better for printing parts that require a certain amount of flexibility or need to resist warping.
• Chemical resistance: PETG has higher chemical resistance than PLA, which makes it more suitable for printing parts that come into contact with chemicals or solvents.
• Ease of printing: PETG is easier to print than other materials such as ABS and nylon but offers very similar characteristics to these. However, compared to PLA, PETG is more difficult to print.
• Temperature resistance: PETG has greater temperature resistance than PLA and can withstand higher temperatures without deforming or losing its shape.
• Weather resistance: PETG is more weather resistant than PLA, which makes it more suitable for printing parts for outdoor use.
• UV light resistance: PETG has greater resistance to UV light than PLA. This means that PETG is less susceptible to yellowing or degradation caused by exposure to UV light.
• Dimensional tolerance: PETG has a higher dimensional tolerance than PLA. This means that PETG molded parts can have higher dimensional accuracy than PLA.

In general, PETG is a versatile and durable material that can be used for a wide range of applications. However, like any material, it also has some disadvantages, such as the need to use higher printing temperatures than PLA and a greater propensity to create stringing filaments. In addition, PETG may require more attention in the preparation of the print bed and in the calibration of the printer than PLA; however, if you choose PETG and take all the precautions seen in a previous article, the printing result can be of high quality.

In conclusion, both materials have their advantages and disadvantages, and the choice depends on the specific needs of the project. When choosing between PETG and PLA, it is important to consider the strength, flexibility, chemical resistance, ease of printing, heat resistance, weather resistance, durability, availability, cost, sustainability, color, appearance, and specific applications of the project you want to achieve.

https://www.longer3d.com/products/lk5-pro-fdm-3d-printer

Longer FDM 3D printers are capable of printing PETG with high quality. This type of material offers many advantages, as it can be printed as easily as PLA but is as durable as ABS.

To 3D print the PETG, you need to make sure that the 3D printer is set up correctly to print the PETG. This includes material selection, nozzle and hotbed temperature, extrusion speed, and other settings related to print quality. In addition, when printing PETG, it is recommended to always keep an eye on the press to make sure that everything goes according to plan and that there are no problems.

The recommended parameters for printing with PETG in 3D may vary depending on the 3D printer, the type of PETG purchased, and the project you want to carry out. However, here are some common printing parameters for PETG:

• Extrusion temperature: 220°C – 250°C
• Bed temperature: 70°C – 90°C
• Print speed: 40 mm/s – 80 mm/s
• Fan speed: 0% - 30%
• Retraction distance: 4 mm–8mm
• Retraction speed: 30 mm/s – 40 mm/s
• Layer height: 0.2 mm

Keep in mind that these are only basic values, and small adjustments may be necessary to achieve the best results based on your specific needs. In fact, there are a few other factors that could affect printing with PETG:

• Adhesion to the bed: it may be useful to use an adhesive solution to be affixed to the glass or a latex/PEI top to increase the adhesion of the material to the printing bed.
• Fan cooling: it is important to keep the fan off or at a minimum to cool the newly extracted material, as cooling too fast can cause warping and weakening of the structure.
• Extrusion: It is important that the extruder is able to extrude a constant amount of material during printing, so the temperature must be set high enough.
• Bed leveling: A well-leveled bed can ensure that the model has an even base and that there are no detached parts during printing.
• Speed: Printing speeds that are too fast can cause warping or adhesion effects. Adjust the print speed to achieve a balance between quality and print time.
• Temperature: Extrusion temperature can affect material properties, such as flexibility and strength. Make sure the temperature is high enough to ensure good extrusion but not too high to cause other problems.
• Print bed cleaning: Make sure the print bed is clean and free of dust or other things that could affect material adhesion.

These are just some of the factors that can affect printing with PETG. It is advisable to do some tests to understand which combination of parameters works best for your 3D printer and for your specific project. In addition, it is important to use a quality material and store it correctly, since PETG can be sensitive to changes in temperature and humidity; therefore, it is necessary to store the filament in an airtight container along with a silica bag to maintain the quality of the material. In general, the key to successful printing with PETG is to experiment and optimize printing parameters according to the specific needs of the project. However, once you have learned how to 3D print PETG, this is a material that allows you to create resistant, flexible, and quality objects. For best results, it's important to follow recommendations on printing parameters, such as temperature, speed, and media usage, and pay attention to design and post-processing details.

https://www.longer3d.com/products/lk5-pro-fdm-3d-printer

FDM 3D printers on the market usually work at 12V or 24V. The choice is made based on the characteristics of the product, the type of user to whom it is intended, and also the production costs; however, even if the operation of a printer is identical, regardless of the working voltage, there are clear differences depending on whether the operation is based on 12V or 24V.

In physics, it is shown that the electric power (Watt) is the multiplication between the voltage (Volt) and the intensity of electric current (Ampere), i.e. P = V * I ; therefore, with the same power, as the voltage increases, the current decreases (and vice versa). In addition, the charge carriers that make up the electric current generate heat by moving inside the conductors, so the higher the current intensity, the greater the charge carriers, the greater the heat that develops. In fact, for this reason the power lines that transport electricity from one part of the various continents and nations to another operate at high voltage, as this allows the use of cables of lesser thickness (less passage of current) with the same power supplied; then, only locally the transport takes place at domestic voltage (110V / 230V), so as to be compatible with domestic electrical equipment.

Based on these premises, it becomes much easier to understand that an FDM 3D printer operating at 24V can have the following advantages:

• to heat a Hotend with a resistor of 40W are sufficient only 1.67A (against the 3.33A needed at 12V)
• to heat a Hotbed with a resistor of 180W are sufficient only 7.5A (against the 15A needed at 12V)

This means less heating of the cables and connectors on the mainboard, minimizing the risk of connector fire and overheating of the mainboard's smd components, resulting in irreversible damage.

For these reasons, Longer FDM 3D printers operate at 24V so that we can offer all customers the best possible product.

 https://www.longer3d.com/products/lk5-pro-fdm-3d-printer

While using an FDM 3D printer, you may need to replace the hotend. In fact, a little space between the heatbreak and nozzle, or a failure of the heatsink fan, or any other type of problem could cause a clog that prevents normal extrusion during printing, and the only way to repair the fault is to disassemble or replace the hotend.

Replacing the hotend is an easy procedure but one that requires the utmost attention.
In order to proceed with the replacement, follow these steps.

Disassembly

1) Unscrew the screw that holds the thermistor in place and remove the thermistor and temperature sensor

2) Disassemble the Hotend, then unscrew the screw that holds the Heatsink in place and remove the heatsink.

3) Remove the PTFE tube from the heatbreak.

4) In case the end of the PTFE tube is damaged, cut the damaged part, taking care to make a vertical cut at 90 degrees; an inaccurate cut will cause molten material to leak during printing, causing a new clog. In order to proceed to a precise cut, it is recommended to use a "PTFE cutter" available as an accessory for 3D printing or you can proceed to print an STL file by searching on Thingiverse for "PTFE cutter."

Replacement

1) Screw the Heatbreak correctly into the heatblock.

2) Screw the Nozzle into the Heatblock

3) Install the Heatsink

4) Mount the Hotend on the 3D printer

5) Unscrew a little the Nozzle (about half a turn), then insert the PTFE tube until it hits with the nozzle.

6) Insert the thermistor and the temperature sensor into the block, fixing them with the appropriate screw

7) Heat the Hotend up to 200°C, then screw the Nozzle well so that it is tight with the PTFE tube and the heatbreak.

Once you have completed these steps, the new hotend will be ready to use.
The correct assembly ensures good operation and avoids new clogs due to leakage of molten material between the heatbreak and the nozzle.

https://www.longer3d.com/products/lk5-pro-fdm-3d-printer

The Hotend is the part of an FDM 3D printer that deals with the melting and deposition of molten plastic material. Therefore a Hotend is composed of a Nozzle that deals with depositing the molten material, a Heatblock that deals with the melting of the material, and a Heatbreak that keeps the hot zone separate from the cold area of the Hotend. The Heatbreak can be equipped with a Heatsink, equipped in turn with a fan.

Hotends come in various shapes and sizes, however common and popular types are the Hotend MK8 and Hotend e3d V6.

Hotend MK8

The Hotend MK8 are composed of Nozzle, Heatblock, Heatbreak and Heatsink, and provide for the insertion of the PTFE tube in beat with the nozzle. This implies that the PTFE tube is inserted inside the Heatbreak, then the filament flows inside the PTFE tube and reaches the nozzle directly, without intermediate zones.

The PTFE tube, in the part in contact with Nozzle and Heatblock, tends to reach the same melting temperature set for the filament, however this is not a problem as PTFE supports temperatures up to 300 C very well, well beyond the normal printing temperatures of PLA, PETG and ABS. On the other hand, the higher the printing temperature, the greater the amount of heat that the Heatbreak must dissipate; in fact, when the heat is not dissipated properly, it tends to rise inside the PTFE causing the filament to melt in areas far from the Nozzle, resulting in obstructions that prevent the filament from passing. For this reason, it is necessary to accompany the Heatbreak with a heatsink heatsink with fan, in this way the heat passage is quickly interrupted.

The Hotend MK8 is ideal for printing most filaments, however for printing more technical materials it may be unsuitable. In fact, printing filaments that require a high temperature, such as polyamide (nylon), also require a large dissipation capacity; however, the structure of the MK8 Heatsink is not able to dissipate much heat, moreover the PTFE tube present inside the Heatbreak also begins to lose its characteristics, thus causing obstructions.

Hotend e3d V6

The Hotend e3d V6 are composed of Nozzle, Heatblock, Heatbreak and Heatsink, and provide both the insertion of the PTFE tube in batting with the nozzle and the PTFE tube in batting with the Heatbreak. This implies that the PTFE tube is inserted inside the Heatbreak, then the filament flows inside the PTFE tube and reaches the nozzle directly, without intermediate zones, or the PTFE is beaten at the entrance of the Heatbreak and the filament passes through an all-metal area before reaching the nozzle. Therefore, the Hotend e3d V6 provides two different configurations of Heatbreak, or the classic Heatbreak with PTFE or a Fullmetal Heatbreak.

The Hotend e3d V6 has an improved heatsink, with a larger dissipative surface, so it is ideal for printing most filaments, including printing more technical materials. In fact, even the printing of filaments that require a high temperature, such as polyamide (nylon), can be performed thanks to the great dissipation capacity; moreover, if the temperature is excessive for the PTFE tube present inside the Heatbreak, then it is possible to use a Fullmetal Heatbreak that does not suffer from temperature problems.

Unfortunately, due to its large size, it is often very difficult to install a Hotend e3d V6 on smaller printers, for this reason the default installation of a Hotend MK8 is often preferred, which is able to perform almost any printing option for common users with a small footprint.

 https://www.longer3d.com/products/lk5-pro-fdm-3d-printer

Lorsque nous parlons de l'impression FDM 3D dans son ensemble, la question qui trouble la plupart des gens est de savoir si ces imprimantes sont suffisamment pratiques pour être utilisées pour des opérations réelles. Pour répondre à ces préoccupations, nous examinerons ce qu'est l'impression 3D FDM et s'il convient ou non pour votre entreprise, en particulier.

Qu'est-ce que l'impression FDM 3D?

La modélisation des dépôts fusionnés est un processus qui implique de réchauffer le filament et de le déposer en couches sur une plate-forme de construction. Ce processus permet la création de formes et de structures complexes avec une grande précision et des détails. L'impression FDM 3D peut être utilisée pour une variété d'applications allant du prototypage à la fabrication de produits.

L'impression FDM 3D peut être utilisée pour créer des pièces pour les prototypes, les produits d'utilisation finale ou même les articles personnalisés tels que les bijoux ou les jouets. Avec l'aide de cette technologie, les entreprises peuvent réduire leurs coûts de production tout en créant des produits de haute qualité avec une plus grande efficacité.

Quelles sont les différences entre l'impression FDM et l'impression SLA?

La technologie d'impression 3D a révolutionné la façon dont les produits sont conçus et fabriqués. Deux des technologies d'impression 3D les plus populaires utilisées aujourd'hui sont l'impression FDM et l'impression SLA. Bien que les deux technologies aient leurs avantages et leurs inconvénients, il n'est pas facile de déterminer lequel est le meilleur pour une application particulière.

La modélisation des dépôts fusionnés (Impression FDM 3D) implique de faire fondre un matériau de filament plastique à travers une buse chauffée, puis de la déposer en couches pour construire un objet. Ce type d'impression 3D est rapide, rentable et peut être utilisé pour produire des formes complexes avec une grande précision.

Il est utilisé dans un large éventail d'industries, comme l'automobile, l'aérospatiale, les biens médicaux, les biens de consommation et bien d'autres. Avec sa popularité croissante, l'impression FDM 3D devient l'une des façons les plus populaires de créer des pièces ou des objets personnalisés rapidement et efficacement.

Au contraire, l'impression SLA 3D est une technologie révolutionnaire qui a changé notre façon de produire des produits. Il s'agit d'un type de processus d'impression 3D qui utilise un laser pour guérir la couche de résine liquide par couche, créant des objets complexes et détaillés avec une précision élevée et une finition de surface.

Bien que les deux technologies d'impression soient efficaces dans le travail, décider lequel fonctionnera le mieux pour vous dépend entièrement du résultat que vous attendez.

L'impression FDM est-elle pratique pour les opérations du monde réel?

La technologie d'impression 3D a complètement changé la façon dont nous créons et fabriquons des produits. Il nous a permis d'imprimer des formes et des structures complexes avec précision et précision, ce qui en fait un choix parfait pour une variété d'applications. L'impression FDM, en particulier, est de plus en plus utilisée dans les opérations du monde réel en raison de sa rentabilité, de sa vitesse et de son évolutivité.

Cette technologie présente de nombreux avantages par rapport aux autres méthodes d'impression 3D, telles que son faible coût et sa facilité d'utilisation. Cependant, il y a des inconvénients à considérer lorsqu'ils décident si l'impression FDM convient à vos opérations. Les avantages et les inconvénients ont été discutés à l'avance.

Les avantages de l'utilisation de l'impression FDM 3D

L'impression FDM 3D offre une gamme d'avantages pour les entreprises de toutes tailles, des startups moyennes aux grandes entreprises. Les avantages les plus importants de l'utilisation de l'impression FDM 3D comprennent des temps de production plus rapides, une meilleure qualité de produit et des économies de coûts. Avec l'impression FDM 3D, les entreprises peuvent rapidement créer des conceptions complexes avec des détails complexes et une précision tout en gardant les coûts bas.

De plus, la technologie peut être utilisée pour produire des produits hautement personnalisés qui répondent aux exigences spécifiques des clients. En tirant parti de l'impression FDM 3D, les entreprises peuvent profiter de ses nombreux avantages et gagner un avantage concurrentiel sur leurs marchés respectifs.

Des économies de coûts aux temps de production plus rapides, l'impression FDM 3D peut vous aider à rationaliser votre processus de fabrication et à produire des produits de qualité en moins de temps.

Les inconvénients de l'utilisation de l'impression FDM 3D

L'impression FDM 3D est devenue une technologie de plus en plus populaire pour une variété d'utilisations, du prototypage aux pièces d'utilisation finale. Bien qu'il offre de nombreux avantages, il y a des inconvénients qui devraient être pris en considération lors de l'utilisation de cette technologie. Il s'agit notamment du coût élevé des matériaux, de la vitesse d'impression lente et de la précision limitée des pièces produites.

Mais tous ces inconvénients concernent l'expertise des praticiens. Si vous êtes un pro pour gérer l'imprimante, vous pouvez faire des merveilles avec. Même les débutants peuvent également obtenir d'excellents résultats, s'ils passent par le guide détaillé de l'utilisation. Un autre facteur contribuant à ces inconvénients est la qualité de votre imprimante 3D FDM. Si vous en utilisez un provenant d'un fabricant bon marché et peu fiable, vous devez vous attendre à faire face à ces inconvénients.

La vérité sur l'obtention d'une imprimante FDM 3D: cela en vaut-il la peine?

Avec l'essor de la technologie d'impression 3D, de plus en plus de gens se tournent vers les imprimantes 3D FDM pour créer des objets personnalisés. Mais cela vaut-il vraiment la peine d'en obtenir un? Les imprimantes FDM 3D offrent de nombreux avantages par rapport aux méthodes de fabrication traditionnelles, y compris les économies de coûts, la vitesse et la commodité. Les imprimantes FDM 3D sont désormais plus accessibles que jamais.

L'obtention d'une imprimante FDM 3D dépend également de vos besoins et objectifs individuels. Par exemple, si vous devez fabriquer des prototypes ou modèles à petite échelle pour votre entreprise, une imprimante FDM 3D peut être un excellent investissement.

Inquiet d'obtenir une imprimante 3D efficace: plus peut avoir exactement ce dont vous avez besoin

Si vous recherchez une imprimante 3D efficace qui peut bien faire le travail, vous n'avez plus besoin de vous inquiéter.Plus long a exactement ce dont vous avez besoin pour réaliser vos projets d'impression 3D rapidement et efficacement.

Des modèles de bureau puissants aux machines industrielles à grande échelle, y compris des imprimantes 3D FDM et des imprimantes en résine, plus de plus en plus d'options qui aideront à donner vie à vos idées. Par conséquent, si vous êtes à la recherche d'une imprimante FDM 3D fiable qui ne cassera pas la banque, alors plus le choix est le choix parfait pour vous.

Certains de nos meilleurs choix de leur collection de premier ordre comprennent les imprimantes FDM 3D, LK5 Pro, LK4 Pro, LK1, etc., et les imprimantes en résine, Orange 4K, Orange 30 et Orange 10.

Conclusion

En fin de compte, la décision de savoir si cela vaut ou non une imprimante 3D FDM dépendra du type de projets pour lesquels vous prévoyez de l'utiliser. Les imprimantes 3D FDM offrent de nombreux avantages par rapport à d'autres types de technologie d'impression 3D.

Ils sont abordables, faciles à utiliser et peuvent produire des imprimés de haute qualité avec une variété de matériaux. Ils ont également une large gamme d'utilisations, du prototypage aux pièces de production et même aux articles de décoration intérieure.