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The Hotend is the part of an FDM 3D printer that deals with the melting and deposition of molten plastic material. A Hotend consists of a Nozzle that deals with depositing the molten material, a Heatblock that deals with the melting of the material and a Heatbreak that keeps the hot zone separate from the cold zone of the Hotend. The Heatbreak can be equipped with a heat sink, which in turn is equipped with a fan.

When assembling a Hotend, care must be taken to ensure that the PTFE tube is in beating with the Nozzle. This implies that the PTFE tube is inserted inside the Heatbreak, then the filament flows inside the PTFE tube and reaches the Nozzle directly, without intermediate zones; therefore, it is essential that the PTFE is tightly tightened and joined to the Nozzle, so that the filament flows forcibly through the exit hole of the Nozzle. In the event that there is even a slight gap between PTFE and Nozzle, then leakages of molten filament from the top edge of the Heatblock can occur, causing fillings and damage to both the print and the printer.

In addition, the PTFE tube, in the part in contact with Nozzle and Heatblock, tends to reach the same melting temperature set for the filament, however this is not a problem as PTFE supports temperatures up to 300C very well before melting, well beyond the normal printing temperatures of PLA, PETG and ABS. On the other hand, the higher the printing temperature, the greater the amount of heat that the Heatbreak must dissipate; in fact, when the heat is not dissipated properly, it tends to rise inside the PTFE causing the filament to melt in areas far from the nozzle, resulting in obstructions that prevent the filament from passing. In addition, the PTFE tube inside the Heatbreak also begins to lose its characteristics, thus causing obstructions. For this reason, it is necessary to accompany the Heatbreak with a heatsink with fan, in this way the passage of heat is quickly interrupted.

To solve these two problems, you can switch to a Hotend like the Hotend Trianglelab TCHC TR6 Model B, which is a Hotend with Bi-Metal thin wall Heatbreak; in this way the PTFE tube is not in contact with the hot Nozzle, but stops high in the Heatsink, where the temperature is cold. Therefore, the filament passes from PTFE to Bi-Metal thin wall Heatbreak when it is still solid, and so leakages of molten material cannot occur. In addition, the Bi-Metal thin wall Heatbreak is welded inside the Nozzle already factory, and therefore it is not possible for losses of molten material between the Bi-Metal thin wall Heatbreak and the Nozzle.

With this type of Hotend it is therefore possible to definitively solve two problems that afflict users of a 3D printer, namely the leakage of molten material between PTFE and Nozzle, and the deformation of the PTFE tube due to the high temperatures reached during the printing of materials such as PETG / ABS / NYLON.

The Hotend Trianglelab TCHC TR6 Model B is the same size as the Hotend MK8 of the Longer FDM 3D printers, so the installation is very user friendly and plug & play. The new Hotend fits both the Longer Classic Printhead and the new Longer Dual Blower, although the Longer Dual Blower is recommended as it provides greater heat dissipation of the Heatsink, as it has a much larger fan than normal. For installation, simply remove the print head cover and the fans, then just unscrew the old Hotend MK8 and screw the new Hotend TCHC TR6 Model B. Instead, as regards the connection of the cables, simply connect the two white cables of the heating resistor to the HEATER port on the mainboard, instead or two black cables of the temperature sensor must be connected to the TH port of the mainboard. The most skilled and experienced users can simply cut the cables of the old Hotend and solder them to the cables of the new Hotend.

Once the assembly and calibration procedures have been completed, you can immediately proceed with printing. You may need to reduce the retraction values inside the slicer and adjust small settings, however 3D printing will be much easier and more enjoyable thanks to this anti-leakage and PTFE-free Hotend in the hot zone.

While using an FDM 3D printer, you may need to replace the hotend. In fact, a little space between the heatbreak and nozzle, or a failure of the heatsink fan, or any other type of problem could cause a clog that prevents normal extrusion during printing, and the only way to repair the fault is to disassemble or replace the hotend.

Replacing the hotend is an easy procedure but one that requires the utmost attention.
In order to proceed with the replacement, follow these steps.

Disassembly

1) Unscrew the screw that holds the thermistor in place and remove the thermistor and temperature sensor

2) Disassemble the Hotend, then unscrew the screw that holds the Heatsink in place and remove the heatsink.

3) Remove the PTFE tube from the heatbreak.

4) In case the end of the PTFE tube is damaged, cut the damaged part, taking care to make a vertical cut at 90 degrees; an inaccurate cut will cause molten material to leak during printing, causing a new clog. In order to proceed to a precise cut, it is recommended to use a "PTFE cutter" available as an accessory for 3D printing or you can proceed to print an STL file by searching on Thingiverse for "PTFE cutter."

Replacement

1) Screw the Heatbreak correctly into the heatblock.

2) Screw the Nozzle into the Heatblock

3) Install the Heatsink

4) Mount the Hotend on the 3D printer

5) Unscrew a little the Nozzle (about half a turn), then insert the PTFE tube until it hits with the nozzle.

6) Insert the thermistor and the temperature sensor into the block, fixing them with the appropriate screw

7) Heat the Hotend up to 200°C, then screw the Nozzle well so that it is tight with the PTFE tube and the heatbreak.

Once you have completed these steps, the new hotend will be ready to use.
The correct assembly ensures good operation and avoids new clogs due to leakage of molten material between the heatbreak and the nozzle.

https://www.longer3d.com/products/lk5-pro-fdm-3d-printer

Dernier mont 3D plus long Relâchez un nouvel accessoires pour les imprimantes 3D FDM.

Ce Dual Blower Kit parfaitement adapté à plus longtemps LK4 / LK4 PRO / LK1 /Lk5 pro et compatible avec l'imprimante U20 / U30 / U30 PRO 3D, améliore la qualité de l'impression, une puissance forte sur la buse de refroidissement pour obtenir une surface de modèle meilleure et lisse.

Et étapes d'installation, certains fans d'imprimantes 3D ne savaient pas. Maintenant, vous pouvez suivre notre étape terrible à l'étape.

https://www.youtube.com/embed/zEA-eM5sfho

Ainsi, installez un nouveau kit de ventilateur double pour votre imprimante FDM, vous devez d'abord retirer l'ancien capot de ventilateur d'extrémité à chaud et d'abord, le nouveau kit de ventilateur à double ventilation dans les faisceaux de portique, connectez les fils de ventilateur dans l'ordre, puis terminé.

PS: Les bouchons ne sont pas remplacés de la même manière que le ventilateur de stock, ils doivent être commutés exactement en face. (L'ancien rouge / noir obtient de nouveau bleu / jaune et visa versa.)

Si vous allez installer BL Touch, téléchargez-vous Support de support pour la touche BL. 

3D plus long collecter tous Coupon d'imprimantes 3D dans la page de remise. Si vous avez besoin d'imprimantes 3D ou d'une pièce de mise à niveau à partir de 3D plus long, vérifiez le lien et découvrez le code de coupon dont vous avez besoin.

Poste original:https://global.longer3d.com/longer-new-dual-blower-kit-installation-tutorial/

Lorsqu'il y a un problème d'inturer à partir d'une plus longue imprimante LK1 / LK4 / LK4 PRO / LK5 PRO 3D, comment le réparer? Il y a généralement deux raisons dans lesquelles l'extrudeuse fonctionne anormalement.

1. Buse encrassée
Dans ce cas, vous pouvez vous référer à la méthode de nettoyage de la buse ci-dessus.
2. Extrudeuse endommagée
Vous pouvez échanger le câble d'extrudeuse avec le câble de l'axe X. Démarrez la machine, contrôlez l'axe X et laissez l'extrudeuse fonctionner. Observer s'ils travaillent. Si l'axe des x fonctionne correctement, le moteur d'extrudeuse se caractérise par fonctionner. A cette époque, vous ne pouvez remplacer qu'avec un nouveau moteur.
Mais si l'axe X ne fonctionne pas après échange du câble. Il peut s'agir d'une défaillance du câble ou de la carte mère. À ce stade, modifiez le câble de l'axe des Y sur l'extrudeuse et le câble de port d'extrudeuse de la carte mère à l'axe X. Si l'axe X fonctionne correctement, le câble est intact. Si l'axe X ne fonctionne toujours pas, cela signifie que la carte mère et le câble doivent être remplacés par un nouveau.
Vous pouvez vous référer à la vidéo dans le lien ci-dessous.

Regarder la vidéo Obtenir plus de détails:https://youtu.be/XCjrieoyZ1c

Atteindre ce lien pour regarder comment ajouter plus longtemps Imprimantes 3D dans le dernier logiciel de Cura. Et obtenez plus de connaissances sur les réglages de Cura plus longs LK4, des réglages plus longs de Cura LK4 et des réglages plus longs LK5 PRO CURA.

Ajouter des imprimantes 3D plus longues dans Cura 4.8

Télécharger les fichiers de ressources de plus >> [RSavources de fichiers] <<, avec le dernier paramètre d'impression, la qualité de l'impression sera parfaite sur la conifguration.