Academy

As seen in previous articles, a Hotend is composed of a Nozzle that takes care of depositing the molten material, a Heatblock that takes care of melting the material and a Heatbreak that keeps the hot zone separate from the cold zone of the Hotend. In particular, the PTFE tube is installed at the stop with the Nozzle, so that the filament reaches the Nozzle directly from the PTFE, without intermediate zones. However, if there is even a slight gap between PTFE and Nozzle, then the molten filament will come out of the intended path and will clog the melting area, thus causing obstructions and blockages that prevent the correct execution of the print.

Thanks to its ease of installation and different design technology, a Hotend such as the Hotend Trianglelab TCHC TR6 Model B can efficiently solve the problem, as it is a Hotend with Bi-Metal thin wall Heatbreak; in this way the PTFE tube is not in contact with the hot Nozzle, but stops high in the Heatsink, where the temperature is cold. Therefore, the filament passes from PTFE to Bi-Metal thin wall heatbreak while it is still solid, and so no leakage of molten material can occur. In addition, the Bi-Metal thin wall Heatbreak is welded inside the Nozzle already at the factory, and therefore it is not possible for molten material to leak between the Bi-Metal thin wall Heatbreak and the Nozzle.

This means that once out of the PTFE tube, the filament must first pass through a metal area in order to reach the nozzle. This means that heat is transmitted to the filament more optimally, as there is no PTFE tube to act as an insulator, and therefore the filament melts more smoothly  effectively, which is a huge advantage when printing technical filaments such as PETG and ABS that require high printing temperatures. On the other hand, due to the improved heat transfer with Hotbed All Metal, compared to printing via Hotend with PTFE it is necessary to adjust some parameters in the slicer.

 

 

One of the first parameters to change might be the retract parameter. In fact, due to the increased heat diffusion, too high a retraction value could cause the molten filament to clog in a cold area of the Hotend. Therefore, compared to printing via PTFE Hotend with PTFE, it is preferable to reduce the retraction value by at least 2 points (e.g. from 6mm to 4mm) by using an All Metal Hotend Press.

Another parameter that you may need to change is the print temperature. In fact, thanks to the increased heat diffusion, reducing the printing temperature by about 5°C could provide benefits, especially in the case of printing with PLA.

Heat dissipation in the Heatbreak area is also very important, as due to the increased heat diffusion it is necessary to prevent the heat from rising up the Hotend. Therefore, it is necessary to install a high-performance fan that can effectively and quickly cool the Heatbreak, and therefore the installation of the Longer Dual Blower is absolutely recommended if you are using an All Metal Hotend such as the Hotend Trianglelab TCHC TR6 Model B.

Once the changes have been made in the slicing software, you can finally proceed with the first test print. Surely further corrections may be necessary in case of printing with PLA, but as far as filaments such as PETG and ABS are concerned, there will certainly be an improvement from the first print. In particular, the Test Benchy in white was made of PLA, while the one in red was made of PETG; although generic parameters have been used, as indicated above, the print quality has certainly improved compared to that previously obtained through Hotend with PTFE.

 

 

The Hotend is the part of an FDM 3D printer that deals with the melting and deposition of molten plastic material. A Hotend consists of a Nozzle that deals with depositing the molten material, a Heatblock that deals with the melting of the material and a Heatbreak that keeps the hot zone separate from the cold zone of the Hotend. The Heatbreak can be equipped with a heat sink, which in turn is equipped with a fan.

When assembling a Hotend, care must be taken to ensure that the PTFE tube is in beating with the Nozzle. This implies that the PTFE tube is inserted inside the Heatbreak, then the filament flows inside the PTFE tube and reaches the Nozzle directly, without intermediate zones; therefore, it is essential that the PTFE is tightly tightened and joined to the Nozzle, so that the filament flows forcibly through the exit hole of the Nozzle. In the event that there is even a slight gap between PTFE and Nozzle, then leakages of molten filament from the top edge of the Heatblock can occur, causing fillings and damage to both the print and the printer.

In addition, the PTFE tube, in the part in contact with Nozzle and Heatblock, tends to reach the same melting temperature set for the filament, however this is not a problem as PTFE supports temperatures up to 300C very well before melting, well beyond the normal printing temperatures of PLA, PETG and ABS. On the other hand, the higher the printing temperature, the greater the amount of heat that the Heatbreak must dissipate; in fact, when the heat is not dissipated properly, it tends to rise inside the PTFE causing the filament to melt in areas far from the nozzle, resulting in obstructions that prevent the filament from passing. In addition, the PTFE tube inside the Heatbreak also begins to lose its characteristics, thus causing obstructions. For this reason, it is necessary to accompany the Heatbreak with a heatsink with fan, in this way the passage of heat is quickly interrupted.

To solve these two problems, you can switch to a Hotend like the Hotend Trianglelab TCHC TR6 Model B, which is a Hotend with Bi-Metal thin wall Heatbreak; in this way the PTFE tube is not in contact with the hot Nozzle, but stops high in the Heatsink, where the temperature is cold. Therefore, the filament passes from PTFE to Bi-Metal thin wall Heatbreak when it is still solid, and so leakages of molten material cannot occur. In addition, the Bi-Metal thin wall Heatbreak is welded inside the Nozzle already factory, and therefore it is not possible for losses of molten material between the Bi-Metal thin wall Heatbreak and the Nozzle.

With this type of Hotend it is therefore possible to definitively solve two problems that afflict users of a 3D printer, namely the leakage of molten material between PTFE and Nozzle, and the deformation of the PTFE tube due to the high temperatures reached during the printing of materials such as PETG / ABS / NYLON.

The Hotend Trianglelab TCHC TR6 Model B is the same size as the Hotend MK8 of the Longer FDM 3D printers, so the installation is very user friendly and plug & play. The new Hotend fits both the Longer Classic Printhead and the new Longer Dual Blower, although the Longer Dual Blower is recommended as it provides greater heat dissipation of the Heatsink, as it has a much larger fan than normal. For installation, simply remove the print head cover and the fans, then just unscrew the old Hotend MK8 and screw the new Hotend TCHC TR6 Model B. Instead, as regards the connection of the cables, simply connect the two white cables of the heating resistor to the HEATER port on the mainboard, instead or two black cables of the temperature sensor must be connected to the TH port of the mainboard. The most skilled and experienced users can simply cut the cables of the old Hotend and solder them to the cables of the new Hotend.

Once the assembly and calibration procedures have been completed, you can immediately proceed with printing. You may need to reduce the retraction values inside the slicer and adjust small settings, however 3D printing will be much easier and more enjoyable thanks to this anti-leakage and PTFE-free Hotend in the hot zone.

LO 

Some users of Longer FDM printers prefer to use a BL-TOUCH automatic leveling system in order to obtain more precise and higher quality prints, as well as making the printing bed leveling process easier and more immediate.

However, the standard automatic leveling procedure is for the BL-TOUCH sensor to remeasure the plane points before each new print. This procedure takes time, and is often useless, especially in the case of making daily prints, the print bed maintains calibration and the printer is never moved. If these conditions are met, then you can simply recall a previous plan mesh before starting a new print, without the need to create a new one.

If you want to print using the last saved mesh, simply change the START GCODE for BL-TOUCH to the following START GCODE:

 

-- BL-TOUCH START GCODE --
G21 ; metric values
G90 ; absolute positioning
M82 ; set extruder to absolute mode
M107 ; start with the fan off
; confirm BL-touch safety
M280 P0 S160 ; BL-Touch Alarm release
G4 P100 ; Delay for BL-Touch homing
G28 X0 Y0 ; move X/Y to min endstops
G28 Z0 ; move Z to min endstops
; reconfirm BL-touch safety
M280 P0 S160 ; BL-Touch Alarm realease
G4 P100 ; Delay for BL-Touch
; bed leveling
M420 S1 Z5 ; enable bed leveling
; prepare hot-end
G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder
G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed
G1 X0.1 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to start position

G1 X0.1 Y150.0 Z0.3 F1500.0 E15 ; Draw the first line

G1 X0.4 Y150.0 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to side a little

G1 X0.4 Y20 Z0.3 F1500.0 E30 ; Draw the second line

G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder

G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed

G1 X5 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move over to prevent blob squish
; -- end of BL-TOUCH START GCODE -- 

 

In this way, printing will start immediately, without mesh the print bed, using the last calibration made. However, sometimes you will need to create a new mesh, especially if the print plate has been moved or if the printer has been moved; in this case, simply create open "Notepad" on your laptop and paste the following GCODE:

; bed leveling
G28 X0 Y0 ; move X/Y to min endstops
G28 Z0 ; move Z to min endstops
G29; Auto leveling
M500 ; save data of G29 and M420
M420 S1 ; enable bed leveling

For last, save the file as levelling.gcode (be careful, do not save as .txt) and copy the GCODE you just created into the microSD of your printer. Whenever it will be necessary to calibrate the printing plate, simply start the GCODE from the printer display, like any other print file, and wait for the measurement to complete.

 

 

 

 

Longer LK4PRO & LK5PRO are two FDM printers capable of producing high-quality 3D prints. However, you can increase the ease and quality of printing by installing a BL-TOUCH or 3D-TOUCH compatible automatic leveling sensor.

 

Preparation

• Download and install the Pronterface software on your laptop:

  >>pronterface-windows<<

• Download and 3D print the bracket for BL-TOUCH

  a. >>Bracket for Classic PrintHead<<
  b. >>Bracket for DualBlower<<

• Download and install on your printer the update firmware compatible with BL-TOUCH (check the firmware update manual if you need):

  >>For LK4 PRO Classic PrintHead<<
  >>For LK5 PRO Classic PrintHead<<
  >>For LK4 PRO DualBlower<<
  >>For LK5 PRO DualBlower<<
  
  

• Prepare a USB cable, using a piece of insulating tape, as shown in the figure:

  

Wiring

1. Switch-off the printer
2. Find the position of motherboard, then screw down the mainboard cover
3. Unplug the Z-MIN wire (2-pin) from the mainboard
4. Connect the sensor's cables to the motherboard, as the picture below shows.
   
5. Screw up the mainboard cover
6. Remove the Z endstop switch, as picture showing below
   
7. Screw down the left 2 screws of the printhead module and mount the BL-TOUCH as picture showing below (follow the same step if you have DualBlower)
   

Configuration

• Confirm BL-TOUCH wiring and mounting is complete
• Power ON the printer
• Connect PC and printer with the modified USB cable.
• Open Pronterface software, select serial port (115200 baudrate) and connect it to the printer

Adjusting Z-Offset

1. Clean up bed and nozzle, and ensure no materials stick on 
2. Send M851 Z0 to reset Z offset value.
3. Send G28 to home XYZ axis
4. Send G1 F60 Z0 to lower Z axis to the software origin. 
5. Send M211 S0 to inactivate software endstop function
6. Place a sheet of paper (0.10 mm approximately) on the bed and use Pronterface to lower the nozzle 0.1 mm by 0.1 mm until you feel friction between the nozzle and the sheet of paper (the paper is not to be jammed but not too free either). Then remove the sheet
7. Send M114 to get the current Z height value (usually negative) and take note of it. This is the z-offset value we need
8. Send M851 Z-x.x to set z-offset. (x.x is the value of previous value; for example, if previous value is -1.2, then send M851 Z-1.2.)
9. Send M500 to save current settings
10. Send M211 S1 to reactivate software endstop function. 
11. Send G28 to home XYZ axis
12. Send G1 F60 Z0 to test if the Z axis could go back to the actual Z origin by checking the clearance between the bed and the nozzle if it is about 0.1 mm (the thickness of a sheet of paper). If not, please repeat steps from 1 to 11.

START GCODE replacement

Inside the Slicer software (Cura, Slic3r, Simplify3D), replace the original START GCODE with the following START GCODE for BL-TOUCH.

-- BL-TOUCH START GCODE --
G21; metric values
G90: absolute positioning
M82: Set extruder to absolute mode
M107: start with the fan off
; confirm BL-touch safety
M280 P0 S160 ; BL-Touch Alarm release
G4 P100 ; Delay for BL-Touch homing
G28 X0 Y0 ; move X/Y to min endstops
G28 Z0 ; move Z to min endstops
; reconfirm BL-touch safety
M280 P0 S160 ; BL-Touch Alarm Release
G4 P100 ; Delay for BL-Touch
; bed leveling
G29: Auto leveling
M420 Z5 ; set LEVELING_FADE_HEIGHT
M500: save data of G29 and M420
M420 S1 ; enable bed leveling
; prepare hot-end
G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder
G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; move the Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of the heat bed.
G1 X0.1 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to start position

G1 X0.1 Y150.0 Z0.3 F1500.0 E15 ; Draw the first line

G1 X0.4 Y150.0 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to side a little

G1 X0.4 Y20 Z0.3 F1500.0 E30 ; Draw the second line

G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder

G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; move the Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of the heat bed.

G1 X5 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move over to prevent blob squish
; -- end of BL-TOUCH START GCODE -- 

In general, the choice between PETG and PLA depends on the specific needs of the 3D printing you intend to do. If you want greater impact resistance, flexibility, and chemical resistance, PETG may be your best choice. Instead, if you want a cheap, easy-to-print, and biodegradable material, PLA may be the best choice. In particular, PETG is a very resistant and flexible filament, ideal for printing large-volume objects and resistant to the effects of chemicals such as acids and alkalis; moreover, compared to PLA, PETG is more resistant to heat and less fragile, so it is great for making prints that will be placed outside and exposed to sunlight.

PETG is a copolymer that combines the properties of PET and glycol. The addition of the latter reduces the problems of overheating of PET and, consequently, increases its resistance. For these reasons, PETG is one of the most commonly used filaments and is an excellent choice for printing parts subjected to mechanical stress and heat; moreover, PETG has an almost absent odor during printing, even if it is a material derived from petroleum and therefore not biodegradable.

PLA is a lactic acid polymer and was the second bioplastic marketed and sold on a large scale. It derives from the milling of corn and is to be considered biodegradable, even if it requires precise conditions to trigger the decomposition process. PLA has some advantages over PETG, such as greater ease of printing, greater rigidity, better surface quality, and lower cost, although it fears heat and weathering.

Therefore, summarizing the advantages of PETG over PLA, here is a list of technical characteristics:

• Impact resistance: PETG is more impact resistant than PLA. This means that PETG is less likely to break during use.
• Flexibility: PETG is more flexible than PLA, which makes it better for printing parts that require a certain amount of flexibility or need to resist warping.
• Chemical resistance: PETG has higher chemical resistance than PLA, which makes it more suitable for printing parts that come into contact with chemicals or solvents.
• Ease of printing: PETG is easier to print than other materials such as ABS and nylon but offers very similar characteristics to these. However, compared to PLA, PETG is more difficult to print.
• Temperature resistance: PETG has greater temperature resistance than PLA and can withstand higher temperatures without deforming or losing its shape.
• Weather resistance: PETG is more weather resistant than PLA, which makes it more suitable for printing parts for outdoor use.
• UV light resistance: PETG has greater resistance to UV light than PLA. This means that PETG is less susceptible to yellowing or degradation caused by exposure to UV light.
• Dimensional tolerance: PETG has a higher dimensional tolerance than PLA. This means that PETG molded parts can have higher dimensional accuracy than PLA.

In general, PETG is a versatile and durable material that can be used for a wide range of applications. However, like any material, it also has some disadvantages, such as the need to use higher printing temperatures than PLA and a greater propensity to create stringing filaments. In addition, PETG may require more attention in the preparation of the print bed and in the calibration of the printer than PLA; however, if you choose PETG and take all the precautions seen in a previous article, the printing result can be of high quality.

In conclusion, both materials have their advantages and disadvantages, and the choice depends on the specific needs of the project. When choosing between PETG and PLA, it is important to consider the strength, flexibility, chemical resistance, ease of printing, heat resistance, weather resistance, durability, availability, cost, sustainability, color, appearance, and specific applications of the project you want to achieve.

https://www.longer3d.com/products/lk5-pro-fdm-3d-printer

Longer FDM 3D printers are capable of printing PETG with high quality. This type of material offers many advantages, as it can be printed as easily as PLA but is as durable as ABS.

To 3D print the PETG, you need to make sure that the 3D printer is set up correctly to print the PETG. This includes material selection, nozzle and hotbed temperature, extrusion speed, and other settings related to print quality. In addition, when printing PETG, it is recommended to always keep an eye on the press to make sure that everything goes according to plan and that there are no problems.

The recommended parameters for printing with PETG in 3D may vary depending on the 3D printer, the type of PETG purchased, and the project you want to carry out. However, here are some common printing parameters for PETG:

• Extrusion temperature: 220°C – 250°C
• Bed temperature: 70°C – 90°C
• Print speed: 40 mm/s – 80 mm/s
• Fan speed: 0% - 30%
• Retraction distance: 4 mm–8mm
• Retraction speed: 30 mm/s – 40 mm/s
• Layer height: 0.2 mm

Keep in mind that these are only basic values, and small adjustments may be necessary to achieve the best results based on your specific needs. In fact, there are a few other factors that could affect printing with PETG:

• Adhesion to the bed: it may be useful to use an adhesive solution to be affixed to the glass or a latex/PEI top to increase the adhesion of the material to the printing bed.
• Fan cooling: it is important to keep the fan off or at a minimum to cool the newly extracted material, as cooling too fast can cause warping and weakening of the structure.
• Extrusion: It is important that the extruder is able to extrude a constant amount of material during printing, so the temperature must be set high enough.
• Bed leveling: A well-leveled bed can ensure that the model has an even base and that there are no detached parts during printing.
• Speed: Printing speeds that are too fast can cause warping or adhesion effects. Adjust the print speed to achieve a balance between quality and print time.
• Temperature: Extrusion temperature can affect material properties, such as flexibility and strength. Make sure the temperature is high enough to ensure good extrusion but not too high to cause other problems.
• Print bed cleaning: Make sure the print bed is clean and free of dust or other things that could affect material adhesion.

These are just some of the factors that can affect printing with PETG. It is advisable to do some tests to understand which combination of parameters works best for your 3D printer and for your specific project. In addition, it is important to use a quality material and store it correctly, since PETG can be sensitive to changes in temperature and humidity; therefore, it is necessary to store the filament in an airtight container along with a silica bag to maintain the quality of the material. In general, the key to successful printing with PETG is to experiment and optimize printing parameters according to the specific needs of the project. However, once you have learned how to 3D print PETG, this is a material that allows you to create resistant, flexible, and quality objects. For best results, it's important to follow recommendations on printing parameters, such as temperature, speed, and media usage, and pay attention to design and post-processing details.

https://www.longer3d.com/products/lk5-pro-fdm-3d-printer

Choosing between FDM 3D printers 24V vs 12V can significantly affect printing speed, heating performance, safety, and overall user experience. Whether you are buying your first printer or upgrading an existing machine, understanding how voltage systems work helps you make a better decision for your workflow and printing goals.

Many modern FDM printers now use 24V systems because of their improved efficiency and faster heating performance, while 12V systems are still commonly found in entry-level and older machines.

---

Table of Contents

1. What Are 12V and 24V Systems in FDM 3D Printers?
2. Quick Answer: Which Is Better, 24V or 12V?
3. How FDM 3D Printer Voltage Systems Work
4. FDM 3D Printers 24V vs 12V: Main Differences
5. Advantages of 24V FDM 3D Printers
6. Advantages of 12V FDM 3D Printers
7. Why Modern FDM 3D Printers Prefer 24V Systems
8. Applications and Usage Scenarios
9. How to Choose Between 24V and 12V
10. Common Questions and Issues
11. Tips for Better 3D Printing Performance
12. Frequently Asked Questions
13. Final Thoughts

---

What Are 12V and 24V Systems in FDM 3D Printers?

Quick Answer

A 12V or 24V system refers to the operating voltage used by an FDM 3D printer’s electrical components, including the heated bed, hotend, cooling fans, and motors. A 24V system generally delivers faster heating, lower current, and improved efficiency compared to a 12V setup.

FDM 3D printers use power supplies to convert household electricity into lower-voltage DC power suitable for printer components. The voltage affects how efficiently the printer delivers energy to heating elements and motors.

In simple terms:

• 12V systems require more current to achieve the same power output.
• 24V systems require less current and can heat components more quickly.

This difference impacts several important aspects of printing performance.

---

Quick Answer: Which Is Better, 24V or 12V?

For most modern users, 24V FDM 3D printers are generally preferred because they offer:

• Faster heated bed warm-up times
• Faster nozzle heating
• Improved electrical efficiency
• Lower current load
• Better compatibility with larger printers

However, 12V systems still remain useful for:

• Basic beginner printers
• Lower-cost machines
• Users upgrading older systems
• Simple hobby applications

The best choice depends on your printing needs, printer design, and intended workflow.

---

How FDM 3D Printer Voltage Systems Work

Understanding voltage helps explain why the comparison between 24V vs 12V 3D printer systems matters.

Electrical power is calculated using the following relationship:

$P = V \times I$

Where:

• P = Power
• V = Voltage
• I = Current

For the same power output:

• A lower-voltage system requires higher current.
• A higher-voltage system requires lower current.

This affects:

• Wire temperatures
• Heating speed
• Connector stress
• Power efficiency
• System stability

For example, a heated bed using 24V can often reach target temperatures faster than a comparable 12V bed while using lower current.

---

FDM 3D Printers 24V vs 12V: Main Differences

Heating Speed

One of the biggest differences between FDM 3D printers 24V vs 12V is heating performance.

24V Systems

• Faster heated bed warm-up
• Faster hotend heating
• Better thermal response
• Reduced waiting time before printing

12V Systems

• Slower heating performance
• Longer warm-up times
• More current required for similar heating power

For users printing frequently, faster heating can noticeably improve productivity.

---

Electrical Efficiency

A 24V system typically operates more efficiently because it uses lower current for the same power level.

Benefits of Lower Current

• Reduced stress on connectors
• Lower heat generation in wires
• Improved long-term reliability
• Better power delivery stability

This is one reason many modern printers now adopt 24V architectures.

---

Wiring and Safety

Higher current in 12V systems can place more stress on:

• Connectors
• MOSFETs
• Wiring harnesses
• Terminal blocks

Because 24V systems operate with lower current, they can help reduce excessive heat buildup in electrical components.

However, proper installation and maintenance are still important regardless of voltage.

For printer maintenance tips, check our [3D printer wiring and maintenance guide]([Internal Link: Related Support Article]).
(Link reason: Voltage systems directly affect electrical maintenance and connector inspection.)

---

Heated Bed Performance

Why Heated Beds Matter

Heated beds are one of the most power-demanding components in FDM printers.

A 24V heated bed often offers:

• Faster temperature ramp-up
• More stable heat distribution
• Better performance on larger print beds

This is especially useful when printing:

• ABS
• PETG
• Engineering materials
• Large-format models

---

Fan and Motor Performance

24V fans and stepper systems may provide:

• Faster fan startup
• Improved cooling consistency
• Better torque stability in some designs

However, actual performance also depends on firmware, drivers, and overall printer design.

Follow official product specifications for component compatibility.

---

Advantages of 24V FDM 3D Printers

Faster Heating Performance

A major benefit of 24V FDM 3D printers is significantly reduced heating time.

This improves:

• Workflow efficiency
• Multi-print productivity
• User convenience

For users running frequent prints, the time savings become noticeable over time.

---

Improved Efficiency

Because current is lower in 24V systems:

• Electrical losses decrease
• Wires generate less heat
• Power delivery becomes more stable

This contributes to better long-term reliability.

---

Better for Large Printers

Larger FDM printers often require:

• Bigger heated beds
• More powerful heating systems
• Higher overall power demands

24V systems are better suited for these requirements.

If you are planning larger projects, our [guide to large-format FDM 3D printing]([Internal Link: Related Support Article]) can help optimize your setup.
(Link reason: Large-format printers often benefit most from 24V heating systems.)

---

Modern Industry Standard

Many modern consumer and prosumer FDM printers now use 24V systems because of their improved performance characteristics.

This has also increased availability of compatible:

• Power supplies
• Fans
• Heaters
• Upgrade accessories

Explore compatible [FDM 3D printer accessories and upgrade components]([Internal Link: Related Product Page]).
(Link reason: Users comparing voltage systems often upgrade power-related components.)

---

Advantages of 12V FDM 3D Printers

Lower Initial Cost

Many older and budget-friendly printers use 12V systems because components can be more affordable.

This helps reduce entry-level printer pricing.

---

Wide Legacy Compatibility

12V components remain common in:

• Older printer models
• DIY printer projects
• Legacy electronics systems

Users upgrading older printers may already own compatible 12V parts.

---

Simpler Entry-Level Usage

For beginners printing simple materials like PLA, a 12V system may still provide acceptable performance.

Typical beginner use cases include:

• Small decorative models
• Educational printing
• Hobby prototypes
• Learning basic printer operation

---

Why Modern FDM 3D Printers Prefer 24V Systems

The shift toward 24V systems in modern printers is largely driven by performance and efficiency improvements.

Main Reasons Manufacturers Prefer 24V

1. Faster heated bed response
2. Reduced electrical current
3. Improved connector reliability
4. Better support for larger printers
5. More stable thermal performance

These advantages become increasingly important as printers grow larger and more feature-rich.

For users researching new printers, visit our [FDM 3D printer collection and comparison page]([Internal Link: Homepage]).
(Link reason: Users comparing voltage systems are often evaluating new printer purchases.)

---

Applications and Usage Scenarios

Best Use Cases for 24V Printers

Professional and Frequent Printing

24V systems work well for:

• Small business production
• Frequent printing schedules
• Larger print jobs
• Engineering materials

Large Heated Beds

Larger print areas benefit from improved heating efficiency.

Faster Workflow Environments

Reduced waiting time improves productivity in workshops and maker spaces.

---

Best Use Cases for 12V Printers

Entry-Level Learning

12V printers remain suitable for:

• Beginners
• Educational environments
• Casual hobby use

Compact Printers

Smaller printers with compact beds may not require higher-power heating systems.

Legacy Upgrades

Some users maintain or upgrade older 12V machines for compatibility reasons.

---

How to Choose Between 24V and 12V

Choosing between 12V vs 24V 3D printer systems depends on your goals.

Choose 24V If You Want:

• Faster bed heating
• Faster nozzle warm-up
• Better efficiency
• Large-format printing
• More modern hardware

Choose 12V If You Want:

• Lower-cost entry-level setups
• Legacy compatibility
• Simple hobby printing
• Existing 12V upgrade compatibility

Always follow official product specifications when selecting replacement components or power supplies.

---

Common Questions and Issues

---

Tips for Better 3D Printing Performance

• Keep wiring connections secure and clean.
• Regularly inspect power connectors for overheating.
• Use official or compatible power supplies only.
• Avoid mixing 12V and 24V components.
• Maintain proper cooling airflow around electronics.
• Update firmware when supported by the manufacturer.
• Use stable power sources for consistent printing.
• Monitor heated bed temperatures during long prints.

For setup optimization, see our [complete 3D printer calibration tutorial]([Internal Link: Related Support Article]).
(Link reason: Proper calibration improves print quality regardless of voltage system.)

---

Frequently Asked Questions

Is 24V better than 12V for 3D printers?

In many modern applications, yes. A 24V system generally offers faster heating, improved efficiency, and lower current requirements.

---

Can a beginner use a 24V FDM printer?

Yes. Many beginner-friendly FDM printers now use 24V systems because they provide better performance and faster setup times.

---

Does 24V improve print quality?

Voltage itself does not directly improve print quality, but faster and more stable heating may contribute to more consistent printing conditions.

---

Can I use 12V accessories on a 24V printer?

No. Electrical components must match the printer’s voltage requirements.

Always follow official product specifications.

---

Why are heated beds important in voltage comparisons?

Heated beds consume significant power. Faster and more stable heating is one of the main advantages of 24V systems.

---

Are 12V printers outdated?

Not necessarily. Many hobbyists and DIY users still successfully use 12V printers for basic applications.

---

Which system is better for large printers?

24V systems are generally preferred for larger printers because they handle higher power demands more efficiently.

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Should I upgrade my existing 12V printer?

That depends on your printing goals, hardware compatibility, and upgrade budget. Follow official product specifications before modifying electrical systems.

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Final Thoughts

Understanding the differences between FDM 3D printers 24V vs 12V helps users choose the right printer setup for their needs. While 12V systems remain useful for entry-level and legacy applications, modern 24V printers offer faster heating, improved efficiency, and better support for larger and more demanding print jobs.

If you frequently print large models, engineering materials, or production batches, a 24V system may provide a smoother and more efficient workflow. For casual hobby use and beginner learning, 12V systems can still deliver reliable results.

Before upgrading or purchasing components, always follow official product specifications to ensure compatibility and safe operation.

While using an FDM 3D printer, you may need to replace the hotend. In fact, a little space between the heatbreak and nozzle, or a failure of the heatsink fan, or any other type of problem could cause a clog that prevents normal extrusion during printing, and the only way to repair the fault is to disassemble or replace the hotend.

Replacing the hotend is an easy procedure but one that requires the utmost attention.
In order to proceed with the replacement, follow these steps.

Disassembly

1) Unscrew the screw that holds the thermistor in place and remove the thermistor and temperature sensor

2) Disassemble the Hotend, then unscrew the screw that holds the Heatsink in place and remove the heatsink.

3) Remove the PTFE tube from the heatbreak.

4) In case the end of the PTFE tube is damaged, cut the damaged part, taking care to make a vertical cut at 90 degrees; an inaccurate cut will cause molten material to leak during printing, causing a new clog. In order to proceed to a precise cut, it is recommended to use a "PTFE cutter" available as an accessory for 3D printing or you can proceed to print an STL file by searching on Thingiverse for "PTFE cutter."

Replacement

1) Screw the Heatbreak correctly into the heatblock.

2) Screw the Nozzle into the Heatblock

3) Install the Heatsink

4) Mount the Hotend on the 3D printer

5) Unscrew a little the Nozzle (about half a turn), then insert the PTFE tube until it hits with the nozzle.

6) Insert the thermistor and the temperature sensor into the block, fixing them with the appropriate screw

7) Heat the Hotend up to 200°C, then screw the Nozzle well so that it is tight with the PTFE tube and the heatbreak.

Once you have completed these steps, the new hotend will be ready to use.
The correct assembly ensures good operation and avoids new clogs due to leakage of molten material between the heatbreak and the nozzle.

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The Hotend is the part of an FDM 3D printer that deals with the melting and deposition of molten plastic material. Therefore a Hotend is composed of a Nozzle that deals with depositing the molten material, a Heatblock that deals with the melting of the material, and a Heatbreak that keeps the hot zone separate from the cold area of the Hotend. The Heatbreak can be equipped with a Heatsink, equipped in turn with a fan.

Hotends come in various shapes and sizes, however common and popular types are the Hotend MK8 and Hotend e3d V6.

 

Hotend MK8

The Hotend MK8 are composed of Nozzle, Heatblock, Heatbreak and Heatsink, and provide for the insertion of the PTFE tube in beat with the nozzle. This implies that the PTFE tube is inserted inside the Heatbreak, then the filament flows inside the PTFE tube and reaches the nozzle directly, without intermediate zones.

 

The PTFE tube, in the part in contact with Nozzle and Heatblock, tends to reach the same melting temperature set for the filament, however this is not a problem as PTFE supports temperatures up to 300 C very well, well beyond the normal printing temperatures of PLA, PETG and ABS. On the other hand, the higher the printing temperature, the greater the amount of heat that the Heatbreak must dissipate; in fact, when the heat is not dissipated properly, it tends to rise inside the PTFE causing the filament to melt in areas far from the Nozzle, resulting in obstructions that prevent the filament from passing. For this reason, it is necessary to accompany the Heatbreak with a heatsink heatsink with fan, in this way the heat passage is quickly interrupted.

The Hotend MK8 is ideal for printing most filaments, however for printing more technical materials it may be unsuitable. In fact, printing filaments that require a high temperature, such as polyamide (nylon), also require a large dissipation capacity; however, the structure of the MK8 Heatsink is not able to dissipate much heat, moreover the PTFE tube present inside the Heatbreak also begins to lose its characteristics, thus causing obstructions.

 

Hotend e3d V6

The Hotend e3d V6 are composed of Nozzle, Heatblock, Heatbreak and Heatsink, and provide both the insertion of the PTFE tube in batting with the nozzle and the PTFE tube in batting with the Heatbreak. This implies that the PTFE tube is inserted inside the Heatbreak, then the filament flows inside the PTFE tube and reaches the nozzle directly, without intermediate zones, or the PTFE is beaten at the entrance of the Heatbreak and the filament passes through an all-metal area before reaching the nozzle. Therefore, the Hotend e3d V6 provides two different configurations of Heatbreak, or the classic Heatbreak with PTFE or a Fullmetal Heatbreak.

 

The Hotend e3d V6 has an improved heatsink, with a larger dissipative surface, so it is ideal for printing most filaments, including printing more technical materials. In fact, even the printing of filaments that require a high temperature, such as polyamide (nylon), can be performed thanks to the great dissipation capacity; moreover, if the temperature is excessive for the PTFE tube present inside the Heatbreak, then it is possible to use a Fullmetal Heatbreak that does not suffer from temperature problems.

 

Unfortunately, due to its large size, it is often very difficult to install a Hotend e3d V6 on smaller printers, for this reason the default installation of a Hotend MK8 is often preferred, which is able to perform almost any printing option for common users with a small footprint.

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When we talk about FDM 3D Printing as a whole, the question that troubles most people is whether these printers are practical enough to be used for real-world operations. To tackle these concerns, we'll be looking at what FDM 3D printing is and whether or not it's suitable for your business, in particular.

What is FDM 3D Printing?

Fused Deposition Modeling is a process that involves heating up the filament and depositing it in layers on a build platform. This process allows for the creation of complex shapes and structures with high accuracy and detail. FDM 3D printing can be used for a variety of applications ranging from prototyping to product manufacturing.

FDM 3D printing can be used to create parts for prototypes, end-use products, or even customized items such as jewelry or toys. With the help of this technology, businesses are able to reduce their production costs while creating high-quality products with greater efficiency.

What are the Differences between FDM Printing and SLA Printing?

3D printing technology has revolutionized the way products are designed and manufactured. Two of the most popular 3D printing technologies used today are FDM printing and SLA printing. While both technologies have their advantages and disadvantages, it is not easy to determine which one is better for a particular application.

Fused Deposition Modeling (FDM 3D Printing) involves melting a plastic filament material through a heated nozzle and then depositing it in layers to build up an object. This type of 3D printing is fast, cost-effective, and can be used to produce complex shapes with high accuracy.

It is being used in a wide range of industries, such as automotive, aerospace, medical, consumer goods, and many more. With its increasing popularity, FDM 3D printing is becoming one of the most popular ways to create customized parts or objects quickly and efficiently.

On the contrary, SLA 3D printing is a revolutionary technology that has changed the way we produce products. It is a type of 3D printing process that uses a laser to cure liquid resin layer by layer, creating complex and detailed objects with high accuracy and surface finish.

Although both printing technologies are efficient in working, deciding which one will work best for you depends entirely on what outcome you are expecting.

Is FDM Printing Practical for Real-World Operations?

3D printing technology has completely changed the way we create and manufacture products. It has allowed us to print complex shapes and structures with precision and accuracy, making it a perfect choice for a variety of applications. FDM printing, in particular, is being used more and more in real-world operations due to its cost-effectiveness, speed, and scalability.

This technology has a lot of advantages over other 3D printing methods, such as its low cost and ease of use. However, there are some drawbacks to consider when deciding if FDM printing is right for your operations. The upsides and downsides have been discussed ahead.

The Perks of Utilizing FDM 3D Printing

FDM 3D printing offers a range of benefits for businesses of all sizes, from medium-scale startups to large corporations. The most significant perks of utilizing FDM 3D printing include faster production times, improved product quality, and cost savings. With FDM 3D printing, businesses can quickly create complex designs with intricate detail and accuracy while still keeping costs low.

Additionally, the technology can be used to produce highly customized products that meet specific customer requirements. By leveraging FDM 3D printing, businesses can take advantage of its many benefits and gain a competitive edge in their respective markets.

From cost savings to faster production times, FDM 3D printing can help you streamline your manufacturing process and produce quality products in less time.

The Downsides of Utilizing FDM 3D Printing

FDM 3D printing has become an increasingly popular technology for a variety of uses, from prototyping to end-use parts. While it offers many advantages, there are some downsides that should be taken into consideration when utilizing this technology. These include the high cost of materials, the slow printing speed, and the limited accuracy of parts produced.

But, all these drawbacks are concerned with the expertise of practitioners. If you are a pro in handling the printer, you can do wonders with it. Even beginners can also come up with excellent results, if they go through the detailed how-to guide for using it. Another factor contributing to these drawbacks is the quality of your FDM 3D printer. If you are using one sourced from inexpensive and unreliable manufacturer, you should expect to face these cons.

The Truth about Getting an FDM 3D Printer: Is it Worth It?

With the rise of 3D printing technology, more and more people are turning to FDM 3D printers to create custom objects. But is it actually worth getting one? FDM 3D printers offer a lot of advantages over traditional manufacturing methods, including cost savings, speed, and convenience. FDM 3D printers are now more accessible than ever.

Getting an FDM 3D printer also depends on your individual needs and goals. For example, if you need to make small-scale prototypes or models for your business, then an FDM 3D printer can be a great investment.

Worried About Getting an Effective 3D Printer: Longer May Have Just What You Need

If you're looking for an effective 3D printer that can do the job right, then you need not worry anymore. Longer has just what you need to get your 3D printing projects done quickly and efficiently.

From powerful desktop models to large-scale industrial machines, including FDM 3D Printers and Resin Printers, Longer offers a variety of options that will help bring your ideas to life. Therefore, if you're on the lookout for a dependable FDM 3D printer that won't break the bank, then Longer is the perfect choice for you.

Some of our top picks from their top-notch collection include the FDM 3D Printers, LK5 PRO, LK4 PRO, LK1, etc., and Resin Printers, Orange 4K, Orange 30, and Orange 10.

Conclusion

Ultimately, the decision of whether or not it's worth getting an FDM 3D printer will depend on what kind of projects you plan on using it for. FDM 3D printers offer many advantages over other types of 3D printing technology.

They are affordable, easy to use, and can produce high-quality prints with a variety of materials. They also have a wide range of uses, from prototyping to production parts and even home decor items.

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