Academy

Visible light and laser beams have in common the same nature, as both are composed of photons; however, the difference between them is in the fact that visible light has an optically isotropic propagation (that is, it propagates identically in all directions), while in the laser all the energy is concentrated within a single beam of a very small section. Therefore, when the laser hits matter, it is instantly able to radiate great power in a very small area, causing a sudden and rapid increase in temperature that alters the state of matter.

Laser engraving machines, such as Longer Ray5, are able to emit a laser beam that instantly transforms the state of matter by combustion, and the contrast between the laser-subjected surface and the surrounding surface creates the visual effect commonly called laser engraving. However, the energy hitting a single point is not limited to that point, but the heat generated is also transmitted to the areas surrounding the point causing the typical burning effect of laser processing.

In order to avoid or reduce this effect, an air assist mechanism can be used, which consists of a compressor capable of continuously blowing pressurized air directly onto the area subjected to the laser. In this way, the heat exchanged between the laser area and the surrounding area is mitigated by the fresh air of the Air Assist compressor, thus avoiding the burnt effect around the laser engraving. In addition, the air blown on the engraving zone cancels the heat exchange with the surrounding areas but does not damage the engraving ability of the laser beam. A simple example to understand this phenomenon can be this: if on a summer day with the sun high in the sky you go to the sea, if there is wind, then you feel cool, while if there is no wind, then you feel hot, but in both cases the sun causes burns to the skin in the same way.

Longer Ray5 10W has an official Air Assist kit that consists of two parts, the nozzle kit and the air compressor. Installing the Longer Air Assist is really easy; just follow the steps below:

• First, proceed to disassemble the laser module from the rest of the machine

• Install the metal nozzle on the laser module

• Connect a rubber hose between the metal nozzle and the pressure regulator, and connect another part of the rubber hose to the regulator inlet

• Connect the inlet pipe of the regulator to the outlet of the air compressor

• Finally, install the laser module on the Ray5, activate the compressor switch and start an engraving from the Longer Ray5 display

The use of air assist not only increases the engraving quality but can also increase the laser's cutting capacity thanks to the possibility of removing smoke and combustion debris thanks to the continuous breath of air; without air assist, these would end up settling on the laser lens, hindering the output laser beam of the module. Whether for hobbyist or professional use, Longer Air Assist is absolutely recommended if you want to achieve the maximum performance offered by Longer Ray5 10W.

https://www.longer3d.com/collections/laser-engraver-accessories

In FDM 3D Printing, during the slicing phase of the project to be printed you can completely choose how to place it on the print bed. In fact, each piece, depending on its geometry, can have one or more positions suitable for printing. The most trivial example is a full cube: whatever its side is placed on the print bed, the result does not change.  Instead, the rectangle printing changes depending on the side placed on the plane, since depending on which side is placed on the plane, the printing of the rectangle can be developed in height or in length.

Another good reason to choose the correct position on the print bed is the possibility of avoiding the use of supports. In fact, for some projects it is possible to avoid cantilevered parts simply by changing the printing orientation: the final piece will be as desired, but its realization will have been much easier and faster.

However, often choosing a position without requires supports is not enough, and sometimes it is also a bad choice. In fact, depending on how the piece is printed, it takes on a different breaking point and a different load capacity. The example shown there are two positions that do not provide supports, but only one is the best one due to the geometry of the object.

In case A, the parts highlighted in green are connected to the part highlighted in black only by a single layer; therefore, by applying an orthogonal force to the parts highlighted in green, they will be easily subject to breakage.
In case B, the parts highlighted in green are connected to the part highlighted in black through many layers; therefore, wherever an orthogonal force is applied, each part will be endowed with increased strength.

Sometimes it is more convenient to choose a location that requires supports rather than a position that does not need supports. An object like the one shown in this example focuses all effort on the part highlighted in blue, so the print between the part highlighted in blue and the part highlighted in yellow must be as strong as possible.

During placement on the print bed, these two positions are usually chosen, where the first does not need supports while the second needs supports.

In case C, the parts highlighted in blue are connected to the part highlighted in yellow only by a single layer; therefore, by applying an orthogonal force to the parts highlighted in blue, they will be easily subject to breakage.
In case D, the parts highlighted in blue are connected to the part highlighted in yellow by many layers; therefore, by applying an orthogonal force to the parts highlighted in blue, each part will be endowed with greater strength. This is a case that shows that despite the presence of supports, printing will be mechanically better.

There are numerous cases where the absence of supports is an advantageous aspect, while in other cases it is absolutely necessary to carefully evaluate how to obtain a strong and durable piece regardless of whether or not you need supports. Each piece will assume a different printing configuration depending on its geometry, so it is always advisable to carefully evaluate the placement of the project on the print bed before starting a slicing, imagining the object in the context in which it will be used.

https://www.longer3d.com/products/lk5-pro-fdm-3d-printer

Longer Ray5 adopts an MKS DLC32 mainboard, characterized by wireless technology, microSD card reading, a touchscreen display with a graphic interface, and total interaction with your smartphone through the MKSLaser application.

MKSLaser is an application for Android/iOS smartphones used to interact with Longer Ray5 and allows you to move the laser within the work area, switch the laser beam on and off, define the homing position, transfer files, start an engraving, monitor engraving information, and so on. Thanks to MKSLaser, your smartphone becomes not only a remote display for Longer Ray5 but also a powerful device for processing your work.

After downloading MKSLaser, first make sure that your smartphone and Ray5 are connected to the same local network. Verify the IP address assigned to Ray5 and enter the same IP in the application. After the connection is successful, remote use can be operated.

Note: The IP address of Longer Ray5 may change frequently, so it is recommended that you set an IP RESERVATION for the Mac-Address of Ray5 within the DHCP parameters of your Router/Access Point so that you always get the same IP address at each subsequent connection.

The MKSLaser Home screen shows at the top the current X/Y coordinates and the S intensity of the laser, while at the bottom there are four large buttons to access the corresponding submenu:

1. Creation

It allows you to process an image and slice it for engraving exactly as you do when using desktop LaserGRBL/LightBurn, in an easy and comfortable way from your smartphone.

      A. Import an image or take a photograph, which can be edited in several ways

      B. In the next step you can edit the image by manually setting brightness, contrast, and other effects.

      C. In the last step you can configure file name change, image size, engraving speed, laser power, M3/M4 mode, and more.

      D. After finishing adjusting the parameters, you can slice and upload it via WiFi to the Ray5 microSD. After Ray5 has received it successfully, you will enter the engraving page from which you can monitor the progress of the processing status, stop processing, or change the power and speed of processing.

2. Control

It allows you to move the laser module within the processing area and different steps and speeds of movement can be set; you can also go back to homing, define a new homing position, turn the laser beam on and off, etc.

3. Material

There are some graphic samples to be used to determine the best parameters for engraving on different materials. Once you have chosen the image to carry out the various tests, set the various parameters (refer to the "Creation" paragraph).

4. Graving

The list of files on the microSD card inserted inside Longer Ray5 is shown, and you can select a file to engrave.

https://www.longer3d.com/collections/laser-engraver

Printing quality in FDM 3D printing depends on more than temperature and print speed. Motion behavior also plays a major role. Printing jerk calibration helps control how the printer reacts during movement transitions, direction changes, and layer shifts. Proper calibration can improve corner quality, reduce vibration, and help produce cleaner prints.

Table of Contents

• What This Guide Covers
• Quick Answer
• Why This Process Matters
• Before You Start
• Step-by-Step Tutorial
• Common Problems and Solutions
• Tips for Better Results
• Frequently Asked Questions
• Final Thoughts

What This Guide Covers

This guide explains:

• What jerk means in FDM printing
• How jerk affects print quality
• Recommended jerk behavior
• Symptoms of incorrect settings
• How to evaluate print results
• Troubleshooting tips for beginners

Quick Answer

What is printing jerk calibration?

Printing jerk calibration is the process of adjusting how quickly your printer transitions into movement during printing operations.

For FDM printers:

• Jerk affects direction changes and movement response
• Recommended values generally fall between 10 mm/s and 20 mm/s
• Rounded and swollen corners may indicate jerk is too low
• Sharp corners with excessive vibration may indicate jerk is too high
• Excessive values above 30 mm/s can create mechanical stress and vibration problems

Follow your printer's official specifications before changing settings.

Why This Process Matters

During printing, the printer axes move at a speed determined in slicing software and measured in mm/s. However, the printer does not instantly jump from zero to full speed.

Movement behavior depends on two factors:

• Acceleration (mm/s²)
• Jerk (mm/s)

Jerk can be described as the "instantaneous speed" reached when movement begins.

For example:

• Print speed = 50 mm/s
• Jerk = 10 mm/s

The printer does not immediately jump to 50 mm/s. Instead:

1. Motion begins with the jerk value
2. Speed then increases progressively through acceleration
3. Full movement speed is eventually reached

Jerk settings affect:

• Layer changes
• Corner transitions
• Direction changes
• Movement pauses
• Print completion time
• Surface quality

Improper settings can create artifacts such as:

• Ghosting
• Ringing
• Bulging corners
• Excessive vibration
• Mechanical stress

Before You Start

Requirements

Before evaluating jerk settings, prepare:

• An FDM 3D printer
• Slicer software
• Access to printer firmware or slicer settings
• A calibration print model
• Stable printer placement

Precautions

Before changing settings:

• Record your current settings
• Change values gradually
• Avoid extremely high values
• Monitor printer movement during testing
• Follow official machine specifications or instructions

Do not guess values outside supported ranges.

Step-by-Step Tutorial

Step 1: Understand How Jerk Works

Action

Understand that jerk represents the initial movement behavior of the printer axes.

The printer uses:

• Speed settings
• Acceleration
• Jerk

to create motion.

Expected Result

You understand that movement is not immediate and that jerk influences the first stage of axis movement.

Important Notes

Although commonly referred to as an "instantaneous velocity," jerk in physics actually represents the rate of change of acceleration.

In practical printing use, it functions as a motion control parameter rather than true physical jerk.

Step 2: Enable Jerk Control If Needed

Action

The jerk value can:

• Remain at firmware defaults
• Be adjusted manually by enabling "jerk control" in slicer settings

Expected Result

The printer can use custom jerk settings if adjustment becomes necessary.

Important Notes

Do not change menu names or settings beyond those available in your slicer.

Follow official machine specifications or instructions.

Step 3: Use Recommended Jerk Range

Action

Use the recommended range:

10 mm/s–20 mm/s

Expected Result

The printer resumes movement efficiently during:

• Layer changes
• Direction changes
• Angles
• Printing pauses

Important Notes

This range is generally recommended to provide balanced performance during printing.

Step 4: Evaluate Printed Corners

Action

Inspect printed corners and geometry carefully.

Look for:

Rounded and swollen corners

or

Very sharp corners

Expected Result

You can determine whether adjustments are necessary.

Important Notes

Interpretation:

If corners appear:

Rounded and swollen with material

→ Jerk should be increased

If corners appear:

Very sharp and sharp

→ Jerk should be lowered

Do not make large adjustments all at once.

Step 5: Watch for Mechanical Issues

Action

Observe the printer during operation.

Check for:

• Vibrations
• Oscillation
• Excessive movement
• Mechanical noise

Expected Result

You can identify whether jerk settings are creating stability problems.

Important Notes

Very high values may create stress on the printer structure.

Values above:

30 mm/s

can potentially introduce structural issues.

Common Problems and Solutions

Tips for Better Results

• Change only one setting at a time
• Save previous settings before testing
• Watch the printer during initial layers
• Evaluate corners rather than only flat surfaces
• Keep belts and frame components secure
• Use stable printer placement to reduce vibration
• Follow official machine specifications or instructions

Community troubleshooting often shows that excessive motion changes can increase ringing and vibration artifacts.

Frequently Asked Questions

1. What does jerk mean in 3D printing?

Jerk controls the initial movement behavior of printer axes during transitions and direction changes.

2. What is the recommended jerk range?

A commonly recommended range is:

10–20 mm/s

3. Can high jerk damage a printer?

Very high values can create strong vibration and mechanical stress. Values above 30 mm/s may affect printer stability.

4. Why are my print corners rounded?

Rounded or swollen corners can indicate that jerk settings are too low.

5. Why do I see ringing or ghosting?

Ghosting often results from vibrations and aggressive movement changes. Motion settings can contribute to this issue.

6. Should I change acceleration and jerk together?

These settings work together, but changes should be performed carefully and independently when troubleshooting.

7. Is higher jerk always better?

No. Higher values may reduce print time but can increase vibration and reduce print quality.

Final Thoughts

Printing jerk calibration is an important part of motion tuning in FDM printing. While print speed and temperature often receive most attention, movement behavior strongly affects print appearance and machine stability.

A balanced jerk value helps improve:

• Corner accuracy
• Surface quality
• Movement smoothness
• Overall print consistency

When making changes, avoid extreme values and observe print behavior carefully. If specific settings are unavailable or unclear, always follow official machine specifications or instructions.

Using an old computer to install OctoPrint on a laptop is one of the most affordable ways to upgrade your 3D printing workflow. Instead of purchasing additional hardware, you can convert an unused laptop or compatible tablet into a dedicated OctoPrint server and gain remote control, monitoring, plugins, and touchscreen functionality for your printer.

Table of Contents

• Quick Answer
• What This Guide Covers
• Why This Process Matters
• Before You Start
• Requirements
• Precautions
• Step-by-Step Tutorial
• Common Problems and Solutions
• Tips for Better Results
• Frequently Asked Questions
• Final Thoughts

Quick Answer

You can install OctoPrint on a laptop or compatible Windows-based tablet by first creating a bootable Raspberry Pi Desktop USB drive using Raspberry Pi Imager, then installing Raspberry Pi Desktop onto the target device and following the official OctoPrint setup process. Android and iOS tablets are not supported.

What This Guide Covers

This tutorial explains:

• What OctoPrint does
• Hardware and software requirements
• How to prepare a bootable USB
• How to convert an old laptop or tablet into an OctoPrint machine
• Troubleshooting advice for beginners
• Tips to improve long-term reliability

Why This Process Matters

Many 3D printer users want more than SD-card printing.

A properly configured OctoPrint setup for 3D printer control provides:

• Remote print management
• Browser-based printer control
• Plugin support
• Webcam monitoring
• Touchscreen compatibility
• File uploading over a network

Rather than buying a dedicated computer, you can reuse older hardware and create a low-cost solution. The original method is designed specifically to turn unused devices into a functional OctoPrint system.

Before You Start

Requirements

You will need:

Hardware

• Old laptop or tablet
• USB drive
• Existing computer for preparation
• Compatible 3D printer
• Network connection

Software

• Raspberry Pi Imager
• Raspberry Pi Desktop ISO file
• Official OctoPrint installation guide

Knowledge

• Basic computer operation knowledge

The original guide recommends users have a minimum level of computer experience because setup difficulties or compatibility issues may occur.

Precautions

Before beginning:

⚠️ Android tablets are not supported.

⚠️ iOS tablets are not supported.

⚠️ The guide only works on devices originally running Windows with x86/x64 processors.

⚠️ Back up important files from the laptop or tablet before installation.

⚠️ Installing a new operating system may erase existing files.

⚠️ Follow official machine specifications or instructions.

Step-by-Step Tutorial

Step 1: Install Raspberry Pi Imager on a Different Computer

Action

Use a computer other than the one you plan to convert into an OctoPrint machine.

Install Raspberry Pi Imager:

Raspberry Pi Imager

Expected Result

Raspberry Pi Imager installs successfully and launches normally.

Important Notes

Raspberry Pi Imager will be used to create a bootable USB installation drive.

Step 2: Download Raspberry Pi Desktop ISO

Action

Download the Raspberry Pi Desktop ISO file:

Raspberry Pi Desktop ISO

Expected Result

The ISO file downloads completely.

Important Notes

The guide specifically uses the graphical desktop version of Raspberry Pi Desktop.

Do not substitute other files unless official instructions specify otherwise.

Step 3: Create a Bootable USB Drive

Action

1. Insert the USB drive into your computer.
2. Open Raspberry Pi Imager.
3. Click:

"Use Custom Image"

4. Select the downloaded ISO file.
5. Create the bootable USB drive.

Expected Result

The USB drive becomes a bootable installation device.

Important Notes

Wait for the process to finish completely before removing the USB drive.

Interrupting the writing process can cause installation failures.

Step 4: Insert the Bootable USB into the Target Laptop or Tablet

Action

Move to the laptop or tablet you want to convert.

Insert the prepared bootable USB drive and begin installing the Raspberry Pi Desktop operating system.

Expected Result

The laptop or tablet starts the Raspberry Pi Desktop installation process.

Important Notes

Only Windows-based x86/x64 hardware is supported in this guide. 

Step 5: Install OctoPrint Using the Official Setup Guide

Action

After Raspberry Pi Desktop installation finishes, follow the official OctoPrint setup guide:

Official OctoPrint Setup Guide

Expected Result

Your laptop or tablet becomes a working OctoPrint system.

Important Notes

Do not skip official instructions.

Follow the setup sequence exactly as provided.

What Happens After Installation?

Once completed, your converted system gains features similar to an OctoPrint Raspberry setup:

• Plugin compatibility
• Touchscreen interaction
• Remote printer monitoring
• Camera integration
• Browser access

If using a touchscreen tablet, you can interact directly with the OctoPrint interface through touch controls.

Recommended Related Guides

If you are improving your printer workflow, these resources can help:

• Printer calibration guide: LONGER Academy Calibration Tutorials
• Printing optimization resources: LONGER 3D Printing Tutorials
• Hardware troubleshooting articles: LONGER Technical Guides

Common Problems and Solutions

Tips for Better Results

1. Use dedicated hardware if possible

Avoid running unrelated heavy software on the same machine while printing.

2. Keep the device powered continuously

Unexpected shutdowns can interrupt active prints.

3. Enable camera monitoring

A webcam can help monitor print progress remotely.

4. Keep software updated

Use official updates whenever available.

5. Use plugins carefully

Too many plugins may increase resource usage.

Frequently Asked Questions

Q: How to install OctoPrint on an old laptop?

A: Install Raspberry Pi Imager on another computer, create a bootable Raspberry Pi Desktop USB drive, install Raspberry Pi Desktop onto the old laptop, and follow the official OctoPrint setup guide.

Q: Can I install OctoPrint on Android tablets?

A: No. Android-based tablets are not compatible with this method.

Q: Can I install OctoPrint on iPads?

A: No. iOS devices are not supported by this setup method.

Q: What processor type is required?

A: The guide works on laptops and tablets originally designed for Windows using x86/x64 processors.

Q: Is a Raspberry Pi required?

A: No. This guide specifically uses a laptop or tablet as an alternative solution.

Q: Can I use touchscreen functionality?

A: Yes. A compatible tablet can interact with OctoPrint through touch controls after setup.

Q: Can I monitor prints remotely?

A: Yes. Camera functionality can be implemented for remote monitoring.

Final Thoughts

Learning how to install OctoPrint on a laptop is an effective way to upgrade a 3D printing workflow without purchasing dedicated hardware. By reusing an old laptop or compatible tablet, you can gain remote control, touchscreen interaction, plugin support, and monitoring capabilities while extending the life of older devices.

For additional setup information and advanced functionality, continue exploring related 3D printing tutorials and official support resources. 

A laser engraving machine like Longer Ray5 allows you to realize many types of processing, offering not only high precision but also high-quality details for every type of DIY project. Depending on the type of material, different possibilities of laser processing may occur, including engraving, carving, and cutting. Some materials allow only some of these processes; however, some materials, such as wood, allow you to carry out all three types of processing.

If you are curious to see with your own eyes what types of processing you can achieve with your new Longer Ray5, continue reading this article, and you can find a vast archive of real photographs from the projects made by our customers with Longer Ray5.

Laser Engraving Applications

This type of processing allows you to customize everyday objects in the way you want, for example, by making a greeting card, engraving the name of your pet on its metal plate, or engraving a photograph or an image on ceramic or stone. This process is the easiest to carry out, and if you intend to engrave a difficult material such as metal or ceramics, then it is possible to temporarily color the surface in black so that the laser can engrave the material more easily and then wash off the paint at the end of the realization.

Laser Carving Applications

This type of processing causes a lowering of the surface of the material (usually wood) in a range between a few tenths of a millimeter and a few millimeters, causing a carving. This allows you to have not only a visual representation of the processing, but also feedback to the touch of the surface. Probably this is the most difficult type of processing to achieve, as it is necessary to find the right combination between the various settings of Lasergrbl / Lightburn to carve into the material without burning or cutting it. 

Laser Cutting Applications

This type of processing allows you to create three-dimensional objects and to give vent to your creativity. In fact, adapting the settings of Lasergrbl / Lightburn to each type of material (usually wood, paper, cardboard, leather, acrylic) it is easy to create a nameplate, a greeting card, a puzzle to compose and even real 3D models. Yes, just engrave and cut the various pieces of a model always using plywood of the same thickness, and then proceed manually to the interlocking of the various pieces to obtain a 3D realization. 

Access to unlimited support for image files

Longer Ray5 can engrave many materials and can realize a lot of great projects, all depends from your creativity! And if you need to find new ideas, you can always count on an immense archive of images on the web. Here is a list of resources from which you can take inspiration for your 2D and 3D creations:

• co(Cutting)
• Laser Ready Templates(Engraving & Cutting)
• Etsy(Engraving & Cutting)
• Thingiverse(Engraving, Cutting)
• Dreaming Tree(Cutting)
• Laser Library(Cutting)
• Free Patterns Area(Engraving & Cutting)
• Ponoko(Cutting)
• So Fontsy(Engraving & Cutting)
• py(Cutting)
• Vecteezy(Engraving & Cutting)
• Maker Union(Engraving & Cutting)
• The Hungry Jpeg(Engraving & Cutting)

https://www.longer3d.com/collections/laser-engraver

In physics, the propagation in space of electromagnetic field energy is called electromagnetic radiation. In particular, electromagnetic radiation with a wavelength between about 400 and 800 nm is called visible radiation and is perceptible by the human eye and transformed by the brain into visual sensations; this radiation is what is commonly called light.

In an electromagnetic wave the energy is distributed in discrete and indivisible packets, called quanta, and the quantum of energy of the visible radiation is called a photon. Photons, having energy in the form of an impulse, when they hit matter are able to excite atoms and molecules, which emit quanta at various frequencies that are also detected as heat: this is the physical mechanism at the base of life, why sunlight also produces heat, and how this heat is more or less intense depending on direct or indirect exposure to sunlight.

Although this does not exist in nature, human progress has made possible the ability to "line up" the photons of a light source, concentrating them in a light beam called a laser beam. If the propagation of a light source takes place in the form of a laser, then all the energy is concentrated within a beam of a very small section; therefore, when the laser hits matter, it is instantly able to radiate great power into a very small area, causing a sudden and rapid increase in temperature that alters the state of matter.

Laser engraving

A laser engraving machine is based on a laser module of a given power, capable of generating a laser beam that can be modulated in power within a range between 0% and 100%. When the laser beam hits a surface, it undergoes a rapid increase in temperature that instantly transforms the state of matter by combustion, and the contrast between the lasered surface and the surrounding surface creates the visual effect commonly called laser engraving.

To create an engraving, the laser module is moved in a Cartesian plane X/Y, thus being able to emit a certain power in a given spatial position, and the set of points hit by the laser beam constitute the engraving. Depending on the power with which the laser beam hits each point of the surface, it is more or less able to transform part of the matter, which results in a more or less deep incision with respect to the surface. In fact, when the laser hits a surface, not only is blackening caused by combustion but also a lowering of the surface; the higher the power of the laser, the greater the amount of matter removed. This contrast of hue and depth creates the typical effect of laser engraving, thus being able to make drawings, markings, and engravings on various types of materials.

Difference between laser engraving, carving and cutting

Depending on the type of material, different possibilities of laser processing may occur, including engraving, carving, and cutting. Some materials allow only some of these processes; however, some materials, such as wood, allow you to carry out all three types of processing.

Taking wood as an example, suppose you apply a laser beam on its surface; depending on the power of the beam, the following possibilities occur:

• The laser has a power capable of burning only the outermost layer of the surface, causing a surface blackening. This process is called laser engraving.

• The laser has a power capable of transforming the innermost layers of the material, causing a removal of matter and a lowering of the surface in a range between a few tenths of a millimeter and a few millimeters. This process is called laser carving.

• The laser has a power capable of transforming the innermost layers of the material, causing a removal of matter such that it is greater than the thickness of the material; in this way a hole is created through which light can pass, and this can also lead to the division into several parts of the original surface. Note that this can often be achieved by passing the laser beam at the same point several times so as to remove the entire thickness of the material by the sum of smaller thicknesses removed at each step. This process is called laser cutting.

Note that, even with the same material, these three processing techniques can take different settings, as they depend on the maximum power of the laser beam, the power applied to the processing, the permanence of the laser beam at each surface point (ie the processing speed), the hardness of the type of wood treated, and other factors. Therefore, it is always necessary to carry out empirical tests in order to obtain the correct processing parameters for each type of material, even if of the same type.

The processing parameters, such as power, speed, number of steps, and more, are assigned to the machine using management software such as LaserGRBL. This software takes care of processing in machine code the instructions useful for realizing by laser processing the image or the incisive effect desired by the user. In this way, the machine is able to know point by point where to apply the laser beam, with what power to apply the laser beam, and with what speed to move to a next point, thus being able to transform into reality any type of idea.

https://www.longer3d.com/collections/laser-engraver

Longer Ray5 is an innovative, technological laser engraver able to offer professional performance. In fact, it is equipped with wifi technology with which it is possible to transfer work without the need for cables, the latest security systems and a 5w or 10w laser module able to offer greater performance than those offered by other laser modules of the same nominal power. Let's see together what makes Longer Ray5 one of the best products on the market.

Mainboard MKS DLC32

Longer Ray5 adopts a DLC32 mainboard, characterized by wireless technology, microSD card reading and touchscreen display with graphical interface.

• The 32bit CPU allows you to process the workload at 240mHz quickly and without delays, thus avoiding lag during laser engraving that could compromise the quality of the final result, as is the case with some 8bit mainboards. Also, it allows to reach a max speed 10.000 mm/min, great results in a short time.

• The microSD card allows you to transfer from the PC to the Ray5 the work to be carried out at the laser, thus ensuring the possibility of working at any time, even without the availability of a PC. In fact, once you have created the work file on Lasergrbl/Lightburn, just select to export the ".gcode/.nc" to the microSD card, remove the microSD card from the computer and insert it into Ray5. At this point you can start, stop, repeat and edit engraving jobs directly from the Ray5 screen, just as you would with your 3D printer, without needing a PC anymore. In addition, on the microSD card you can keep dozens of work files, so you can repeat them at any time you need them.

• The touchscreen display is equipped with an intuitive graphic interface, through which you can consult the list of working files on microSD, choose and start an incision, move the axes and fix the "homing" position, turn on and off the laser beam and establish the wireless connection between Ray5 and your wifi internet connection.

•  The wireless technology of the Ray5 DLC32 mainboard offers unique features, thanks to which it is possible to fully control every aspect of Ray5, remotely and without the need for cables. Simply establish the wireless connection between Ray5 and your wifi internet connection using the touchscreen display interface, after which make a note of the assigned IP address; at this point, by typing in the browser of your PC the IP address marked above, a web page will be opened from which you can fully control Ray5, having a "remote display" of command directly on your PC. In addition, transferring engraving jobs to microSD also becomes easier, as you can transfer files to the microSD via wifi, without the need to physically remove the microSD from Ray5.

• The mobile APP"MKSLaser" available for Android & iOS allows you to use Ray5 directly from your smartphone, not only to control the machine but also to edit   the images andthe related engraving parameters on the move.

Security Protections

Longer Ray5 adopts the latest and most advanced safety protections, so as to guarantee safe use at all times.

• Thermal protection stops the engraving work in the event that the engraved material should catch fire, alerting the user by means of an audible alarm.
• Motion protection stops engraving work in case Ray5 is suddenly bumped, preventing damage to the machine.
• Motionless protection stops engraving work if the laser module remains fixed in the same position for more than 5 seconds; this prevents the fixed laser beam in the same position from igniting the worktop.
• The eye protection at the base of the laser is made of acrylic material capable of filtering 99% of the laser beam in case it is reflected.
• Emergency General Protection can be manually activated by the user at any time should any sudden problem occur; just press the ON/OFF button on Ray5 and the machine will shut down immediately.

Updated 10w Laser Module with 0.06x0.06mm spot laser

The new version of Longer Ray5 adopts an improved 10w laser module, which offers much greater performance than competing lasers of the same power; in fact, our laser uses a new technology that allows you to reduce the amplitude of the laser beam, concentrating the laser spot in just 0.06x0.06mm (the spot laser adopted by competitors is usually 0.15x0.15mm), and by concentrating the engraving power within a smaller surface it is possible to obtain results similar to those achievable with competing lasers of greater power or with air-assist. In addition, a focal length of 50mm has been specially chosen, which is optimized for cutting. Thanks to these two technical characteristics, for example, you can cut fir wood 1.4cm thick with only 2 passages (against the 4-5 passages required by competing laser modules of the same power), or 5mm thick plywood with only 1 passage.

• We performed some demonstration tests, in order to let you see with your own eyes our tests the great performances provided by our 10w - 0.06x0.06mm - laser module. Give a look at this following table, you will be amazed!

• To compare the differences between Longer 10w - 06x0.06mm - lasermodule and our Longer 5w - 0.08x0.08mm - laser module, you can check this table.

Compatible with a wide variety of materials and unlimited support for image files

Longer Ray5 can engrave many materials, including wood, aluminum, ceramics, glass, and much more, it all depends on your creativity! And if you need to find new ideas, you can always count on an immense archive of images on the web. Here is a list of resources from which you can take inspiration for your 2D and 3D creations:

• co(Cutting)
• Laser Ready Templates(Engraving & Cutting)
• Etsy(Engraving & Cutting)
• Thingiverse(Engraving, Cutting)
• Dreaming Tree(Cutting)
• Laser Library(Cutting)
• Free Patterns Area(Engraving & Cutting)
• Ponoko(Cutting)
• So Fontsy(Engraving & Cutting)
• py(Cutting)
• Vecteezy(Engraving & Cutting)
• Maker Union(Engraving & Cutting)
• The Hungry Jpeg  (Engraving & Cutting)

https://www.longer3d.com/collections/laser-engraver

All Longer 3D printers offer excellent performance and guarantee high print quality, however some users love to install upgrades useful to change the aesthetic appearance or characteristics of the printer. For this reason,。

this article intends to present some of the most installed upgrades by users, offered by @Ciubecca Nicola.

1、LONGER LK4Pro & LK5Pro Display Cover

This upgrade allows you to install a cover on the display of the Longer LK4PRO & LK5PRO printers, so as to protect the screen from dust when the printer is not in use

Download link: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4929422

2、LONGER LK4Pro & LK5Pro Adjustable LED Light Bar Mount

This upgrade allows you to install a lamp through an adjustable stand, so as to obtain a good illumination of the printing plate of LK4PRO & LK5PRO.

Download link: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4980580

3、LONGER LK4Pro & LK5Pro Mini SD Card/USB Holder

This upgrade allows you to install a holder for microSD cards, USB pendrives and SD cards, so you always have any type of flash memory next to the printer

Download link: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5230892

4、LONGER LK4Pro & LK5Pro Front rail cover with Bed Leveling Reminder

If you do not need the previous Card Holder, then this upgrade can be a good choice; this upgrade is a reminder that allows you to remember from which direction you have to turn the leveling knobs to raise or lower the printing surface

Download link: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4981797

5、LONGER LK4Pro & LK5Pro Screw Cap

An upgrade as simple as it is functional, of the simple caps to cover the screws of the aluminum frame of the LK4PRO & LK5PRO printers. Choose your favorite color to customize your printer to the maximum!

Download link: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5186277

6、LONGER LK4Pro & LK5Pro Spool Clamp

Some filament coils tend to move on the Spool Holder; therefore, if this is a problem for you then you can install this upgrade, which allows you to hold the coil in its position

Download link: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5186749

7、LONGER LK4Pro & LK5Pro Flexible Arms

This upgrade consists of a flexible arm, which was used to install a camera that can record the printing process. However, if you have a different camera or if you don't need a camera, then you can modify the original design and use the flexible arm for any kind of customization you have in mind. Bring your ideas to life!

Download link: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5186245

Final Result

These upgrades offer practical ways to customize your LONGER LK4 PRO and LK5 PRO, improving convenience and enhancing the overall printing experience.

The calibration of the first layer takes place by calibrating the distance between the tip of the nozzle and the surface of the printing plate; in this way the extruded plastic will stick correctly to the plane, being crushed slightly and correctly.

Longer 3D printers are equipped with a menu accessible from a display that allows you to calibrate accurately and precisely, by measuring it at 5 predetermined points. For calibration it is enough to leave the space of a sheet of paper between the tip of the nozzle and the surface of the plate, so that the sheet can move freely but with a slight friction, simply by turning each of the 4 knobs to manually adjust the distance between the nozzle and the plane.

Once the calibration has been carried out correctly, it is possible to make a test print to evaluate the quality of the first layer, which will be perfect if the calibration has been carried out correctly or of poor quality if the calibration has been carried out incorrectly. Proper adjustment ensures a uniform and perfect surface, without gaps between the lines, nor ridges.

An extrusion too far from the printing plane is recognized by round lines instead of crushed, far from each other rather than united; an extrusion too close to the printing plane is recognized by lines crushed completely, too close to each other almost to overlap and create ridges that curl upwards.

In case of incorrect calibration, the following problems may occur: if the nozzle is too far from the print surface, there is a risk that the print will not stick properly, causing a harmful accumulation of material around the nozzle, instead if set too close, an occlusion of the nozzle, excessive adhesion to the printing plate or even permanent damages at the printing plane.

Therefore, it is a good idea not only to accurately calibrate the first layer, several times if necessary, and above all to monitor the printer every time you start a new print until the first layer has been completed correctly.

Sometimes, the first layer may fail to adhere to the print plane despite the calibration being done correctly. In these cases, you can proceed with the thorough cleaning of the printing surface, so as to remove the accumulated dirt; in case the problem persists, you can proceed with the increase of the flow related to the first layer, a topic that will be covered in a future lesson.

Once a perfect calibration has been obtained, this will not be eternal: the first layer calibration will have to be checked periodically, and surely it will have to be done again every time you move the printer to a different place, you make the nozzle replacement, the extruder change, the replacement of the plane or any other modification to one of the 3 axes.

In some case, it could be found that the calibration is impossible to carry out on the 5 points, that is, the 4 corners of the plane are well calibrated while the center is too close to the tip of the nozzle. This could be caused by incorrect placement of the Z endstop. 

Longer 3D printers have a sticker that indicates where endstop Z should be placed. However, if endstop Z is placed too low, as a result it will be necessary to lower the printing plane as well, screwing more the 4 adjustment knobs; on the other hand, excessively screwing the corners inevitably causes a deformation of the aluminum top, which takes on a curved shape with the highest center of the corners.

In these cases, it is possible to place endstop Z higher, so as to be able to raise even the 4 corners of the plane and cancel the curvature. On the other hand, it is advisable not to exceed the positioning of endstop Z at the top, as this would cause an instability of the printing plane due to insufficient screwing of the 4 levelling knobs.

Above is the introduction of the first layer calibration, hope it can help you. If you still have any questions during the operation, please visit our Support Page. Our knowledgeable staff is happy to assist you and your team with any questions.

After mastering the above information, why not take a look at our exceptionally outstanding laser engraving machine, the Longer Laser B1 40W ?Unlock the pinnacle of laser engraving and cutting prowess with the B1 40W. Where precision meets versatility and innovation, seize the power to transform your visions into tangible achievements. With its powerful engraving and cutting capabilities, it transcends boundaries to become the best engraving machine and best laser cutter for a variety of materials. From wood, metal, acrylic, glass to leather and more, there are no limits to your creativity.