Academy

FDM 3D printing consists of a series of layers of molten material placed on top of each other; in this way, complex objects are created through a succession of layers. However, often some layers must be placed in areas without a base, so the layer is printed literally in a vacuum and it will inevitably fall down, but to overcome this problem it is possible to use supports, which act as a temporary scaffolding and can be removed once the print has been completed.

In a previous lesson, we saw how in some special cases it is possible to print suspended layers, without the use of supports, using the phenomenon called Bridging, but this technique is limited to particular designs mostly straight and of short distances. For most prints there will inevitably be a need to use Printing Supports.

As anticipated, the supports are printed structures that are not part of the original design, but are scaffolding external to the design that are used temporarily for printing the object, and in particular serve to ensure that the cantilevered parts of the object are extruded over a solid structure instead of in a vacuum, so as not to collapse downwards. These support structures are temporary because at the end of printing, they will have to be removed, thus having a model printed according to the original design.

In the Cura slicer there are various types of supports to choose from, and most of them are equivalent, that is, choosing one type instead of another does not make a big difference; they are mainly based on vertical structures, more or less dense, and a good default configuration of the supports can be indicated in the following photo:

A separate case is the Tree Supports, which tend to be less dense and easier to remove at the end of printing, since just like a tree these supports have a common base at the bottom and expand upwards in more branches just with a tree. Therefore, a smaller support surface at the bottom corresponds to a greater support surface at the top, and this saves material for the realization of the supports and facilitates the removal of the supports thanks to their particular upward development configuration.

The example below shows how, with the same model, the two different types of support take on a different development, while performing the same function:

Although tree supports always seem to be the best choice for various reasons, in reality it is necessary to evaluate on a case-by-case basis what type of support to use, as depending on the geometry of the model it may be more convenient to use classic vertical supports, so as to guarantee greater resistance during printing. In any case, the best way to get answers in this regard is to empirically test the various types of support and evaluate those that best suit the type of model to be printed.

https://www.longer3d.com/products/lk5-pro-fdm-3d-printer

In 3D printing, the nozzle diameter plays a key role in determining the maximum layer height you can use. As a general rule, the maximum layer height is about 80% of the nozzle’s diameter. For example:

• With a 0.4 mm nozzle, the layer height can go up to 0.32 mm.

• With a 0.8 mm nozzle, it can reach 0.64 mm.

• With a 0.2 mm nozzle, the maximum is 0.16 mm.

What’s important to note is that the nozzle size only limits the maximum layer height — not the minimum. This means that even with a large 0.8 mm nozzle, you can still print with fine resolutions like 0.05 mm, just as you would with smaller nozzles.

In simple terms, larger nozzles allow faster printing while still being capable of high detail, and smaller nozzles focus on fine detail but print more slowly.

Very often interlocking objects are encountered, that is, an object fits perfectly with another object, providing a unique object; however, in order for two objects to fit together, it is necessary that they comply with precise measures relating to the interlocking zones.

Assuming you have a cylinder with a diameter of 1mm and a circular hole of 1mm, in theory the interlocking can take place, but in practice the interlocking will not take place as there is always a need for a certain "tolerance". Therefore, a cylinder with a diameter of 1mm can fit into a circular hole if it has a diameter of 1.1~1.4mm, that is, if there is a tolerance of 0.1~0.4 mm between the two objects. On the other hand, the tolerance cannot be applied at will but must be calculated accurately, as a tolerance that is too small will be insufficient to make the interlocking, while a tolerance that is too large will make the interlocking unstable, with the two objects passing through each other.

In 3D Printing the interlocking tolerance strongly depends on your 3D printer used, as usually a tolerance of 0.2mm is sufficient but depending on the printer used (and how it is configured) the tolerance may vary. If the flow calibration tests, the calibration of the first layer and the temperature test have been carried out (as illustrated in the previous lessons of the Longer 3D Academy), then it is now possible to perform the "Tolerance Test", which allows you to determine the exact tolerance value when you intend to fit two objects together. In this way, once the tolerance value has been established, when interlocking objects are drawn, it is possible to draw them with a measurement difference equal to the tolerance, so as not to have problems during the interlocking procedure.

In order to proceed with the Tolerance Test, proceed as follows:

• Download the following .stl file:https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5205185
• Import the model into Cura and slicing using your own settings
• Print the tolerance test sample

Once the printing is complete, a visual evaluation of the tolerance can be made. In particular, the cylinder must be able to remove itself from its base, but must not slide through the hole; instead, the cylinder must be able to fit into the hole, and this will be the tolerance value sought.

Once you have the tolerance value, use it every time you draw interlocking objects.

https://www.longer3d.com/collections/3d-printers-1

Many users of 3D printing, regardless of their experience, often find themselves facing an annoying problem that is really difficult to eliminate: blobs on the outer surface of the prints. This phenomenon often appears suddenly, only on particular prints, even when you think you have found the perfect Slicer settings for optimal print quality. So we proceed with varying the temperature, the speed, the accelerations, etc., but despite this the problem is not solved, but only a little attenuated.

Blobs are deposits of molten material along the outer surface of a print, take on the appearance of "little balls" and are difficult to remove even by handworking the print in post-production. These occur when the nozzle abnormally releases molten material, and often this is independent of slicer settings such as retraction and flow.

When math is indispensable for 3D printing

In geometry, a polygon takes on a different name and appearance based on its number of sides (segments). In particular, a polygon composed of 3 segments will be called a triangle, composed of 5 segments will be called pentagon, 6 hexagon segments, 10 decagon segments, ..........., from 1.000.000.000 segments will be something very similar to a circumference, from 1.000.000.000.000 segments will look almost a circumference, from 1.000.000.000.000.000.000 segments will be practically a circumference.

Thus, a polygon of n-sides, with very large n and each segment very small, can be approximated with a circle, with greater precision as nincreases. This technique is used by 3D printers to print a circumference, transforming it into a series of XY coordinates of n segments, with n more or less large depending on the number of meshes of the original stl model.  Thus, a circumference is a series of countless segments, each of very small amplitude, made one after another on the hotbed of the 3D printer.

However, what to the eye seems to be a very simple circumference, actually requires a high computational cost for the mainboard of the 3D printer, as it is necessary to process in a fraction of a second millions of coordinates of millions of segments. In addition, depending on the number of meshes of the original stl model, 3D printing may often have to process much more data than is sufficient to achieve a perfect circumference, sometimes even more than its hardware capacity in terms of resolution.

Therefore, if for example the 3D printer can realize a perfect circumference starting from 10.000.000.000 segments, and this is also its maximum resolution, when its mainboard is found to process 1.000.000.000.000.000 segments this will perform unnecessary work, both because it is possible to obtain an optimal result with a lower computational cost and because such processing cannot be put into practice due to the hardware limitations of an FDM printer.

Correlation between geometry and blobs

As seen above, for a simple circumference, a 3D printer is faced with a very complex calculation in no time, often a calculation even greater than necessary. So it can happen that the mainboard cannot process the data in time, so the hardware not receiving print coordinates can only stop. These stops occur for a very short time, almost imperceptible, but they are enough for the nozzle to lose molten material along the outer perimeter of printing, thus forming a blob.

Therefore, regardless of one's slicing settings, the blobs phenomenon cannot be solved easily as it is dependent on the type of 3D drawing, its number of meshes, the original designer's ability to make it, and the computational ability of the mainboard of your 3D printer.

Resolve the problem

The optimal approach to solve this problem would be to manipulate the stl file in question, going to reduce the number of meshes, repair it and try to reduce its size in terms of megabytes. However, this operation often turns out to be complex, suitable only for experts, or even impossible.

On the other hand, the Ultimaker Care slicer is equipped with a special, hidden feature that not everyone knows about, which is very useful for reducing the number of meshes of a 3D object. This option is called "Mesh Fixes" and is intended to reduce the number of meshes of an object by varying the maximum length of each segment. In this way, by increasing the maximum distance of each segment, at the same perimeter inevitably the number of segments must be smaller, and therefore the computational cost of the mainboard is also reduced. Therefore, by processing the gcode more easily, the 3D printer will be able to process a greater number of displacements without suffering from pauses, and therefore reducing the blobs.

In particular, by changing the default settings with the values above it will be possible to solve almost entirely the problem of blobs, without altering the standard FDM print quality. It should be considered in mind that professional 3D printers, such as FDM Ultimaker printers, adopt by default values of 0.7 mm without affecting their ability to make details and resolution. 

If after changing the parameters in question should still persist some sporadic blobs, it will be possible to totally solve the problem by slightly adjusting the values of temperature and downward flow, the upward retraction. Alternatively, you can always increment the Mesh Fixes values at the expense of details.

The print difference with the standard and custom Mesh Fixes settings are immediately visible:

Both tests were done keeping the exact same slicing settings for both, except for varying the Mesh Fixes values.

The test stl file has been modified, damaged and repaired three times, in order to make it difficult for the mainboard to be processed.

https://www.longer3d.com/products/lk5-pro-fdm-3d-printer

After completing the calibration of your 3D printer, following the previous articles of the Longer 3D Academy, you can check the results obtained through the test below.

The object that we are going to print is a "Cyclonic Separator", that is a particular object that is placed between the vacuum cleaner and the suction pipe, and which allows you to separate up to 99% of the dirt present in the suction pipe. In this way the vacuum cleaner will always remain clean and above all its filters will not freeze; so this object turns out to be extremely useful when you intend to vacuum the residues produced by woodworking, the fine dust produced by the processing of 3D prints, the residues produced by laser cutting, and so on.

Printing the Cyclone requires that the printer has been perfectly calibrated, otherwise the print will not be perfect and will not guarantee the promised results. Therefore, if the printer is ready, here's how to proceed.

• Download the following .stl file:https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5241734
• Import the model into Cura and slicing using your own settings (DO NOT set supports)
• Print the .gcode

The model consists of the main body of the cyclonic separator and two input and output adapters, which serve as a connection between the cyclone and the vacuum cleaner pipes. For best results it is recommended to use PETG, however if you do not have some experience with this material then you can also use PLA.

To make the connection more stable, it is possible to put a little rubber insulating tape around the adapters, so as to have more stable and sealed joints. In addition, the Separator will need a container compatible with its screw attachment, and an easily accessible example is a classic transparent bottle of Coca-Cola or any other container with a similar thread.

Once the Cyclonic Separator is installed as shown in the figure, almost all the sucked dirt will go inside the bottle instead of inside the vacuum cleaner, thus avoiding clogging the filters with fine dust.
Remember never to put your hand in front of the suction, as the Cyclonic Separator works on pressure differences; therefore, obstruction of the suction will cause the container to implode!
This video shows the Cyclonic Separator in action:  https://youtu.be/FEvztl8UPPk

https://www.longer3d.com/collections/accessories

In 3D printing, the models with which you work are always three-dimensional, in .stl, .3mf or other. However, not everyone knows that image files and photos can also be processed in 3D.

In fact, using tools integrated in Windows it is possible to easily transform and process a 2D image into a 3D model, thus being able to proceed with the 3D printing of the photo. Note that this procedure is only compatible with .jpg, .png and vectorial images, with transparent background (so in case of background, this must first be removed using photo editing).

 
After choosing a 2D image without background (like this one above in the figure), open the "3D Builder" software preinstalled in Windows 10 (if it was not present, download it from the Windows Store). Then select "Open – Load image" to import the selected image.

Once the image has been imported into 3D Builder, you can change some settings such as Levels, Smooth, and so on; using these settings, edit the file according to your preferences. Once the editing is complete, select Import Image to get the image converted to 3D file.

At this point you can keep the 3D file as it is and proceed directly to export the file, or alternatively you can edit it as you want; for example, the test file was modified by adding a base (with a downward extrusion) and writing on the base the "Longer 3D" logo, for last colored in red, as shown in the figure.

When the 3D model is ready, proceed to export, selecting "Save as - .3mf (or) .stl". The 3D model will be saved, and then you can open it in your slicer to create a .gcode to print.

By following this guide, you can transform almost any 2D image into 3D, as long as the background is transparent and does not create interference during the transformation; for best results you can use 2D files of .png type or .svg vectorial.

https://www.longer3d.com/collections/3d-printers-1

In the processing with Laser Engravers the files with which we work are always two-dimensional, as . png, . svg or other. However, not everyone knows that even 3D models can be processed in 2D.

In fact, using tools integrated in Windows it is possible to easily transform and process a 3D model into a 2D image, thus being able to proceed with laser engraving.

After choosing a 3D model, open the "Paint 3D" software preinstalled in Windows 10 (if it was not present, download it from the Windows Store). Then select to Open the 3D file to import the selected model.

Once the 3D model has been imported into Paint 3D, select "Menu – Save as – Image".

At this point, in the screen that will appear it will be possible to keep the image as it is or change the angle with which you intend to extract the image from the 3D model, pressing on "Adjust Angle & Framing", if necessary; once you have finished changing the angle, confirm or cancel your choice to return to the previous screen.

Finally, enable the flag on "Transparency" (absolutely important!) and proceed to save the image as .png file.

After the 2D image has been successfully exported, you can later open it in your laser engraving software, such as Lasergrbl or Lightburn, to create a .gcode to be engraved.

By following this guide, you can transform almost any 3D model into 2D, as long as it has at least one removable side in two-dimensional form.

https://www.longer3d.com/products/lk5-pro-fdm-3d-printer

Our Longer LK4 PRO and LK5 PRO 3D Printers are very similar, but the differences between them are not limited only to the different printing area, but on the LK5 PRO there are other small improvements that make this printer much superior to LK4 PRO.

However, if you already own an LK4 PRO and do not intend to buy LK5 PRO as well, here is a series of tips to make your LK4 PRO like a mini-LK5PRO, thus improving its printing capacity and hardware structure.

1) Hotbed Cable Bracket Holder

The LK4 PRO has a Hotbed power cord simply connected via a clip-on connector. This, as a result of repeated movements during printing, may disconnect, bend or break; for this reason it is really important to install a cable bracket that makes the connection fixed, exactly as for LK5 PRO. About that:

1. Download the official Bracket Longer: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4818795
2. Print it using 0.1mm Layer Height & 100% Infill as recommended settings
3. Proceed to the installation as follows:
   • Unscrew and remove the 4 leveling knobs, remove the hotbed
   • Place the bracket on the metal plane, place the leveling spring in the bracket compartment
   • Assemble the hotbed again and screw in the 4 leveling knobs
   • Attach the cable to the Bracket using two fixing clamps
4. Here is the final result:

2) Mainboard fan protection grid

The LK4 PRO's mainboard fan does not have a protective grid like that of the LK5PRO, so if you don't have a compatible metal grid then you can install a printed one. About that:

1. Download the official Longer mainboard grid:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4957827

1. Print it using 0.1mm Layer Height & 100% Infill as recommended settings
2. Proceed to the installation as follows:
   • Unscrew the 4 mainboard fan screws
   • Place the grid
   • Start the 4 screws
   • Note: Due to the grid, you need to use 4 screws longer than the originals
3. Here is the final result:

3) Spool Holder on the side

The LK4 PRO printer provides for the installation of the Spool Holder at the top; however, if you prefer to install the Spool Holder on the side of the printer, as for LK5 PRO, here is a practical upgrade to print and install easily:

1. Download the official Longer bracket for Spool Holder: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4957817
2. Print it using 0.2mm Layer Height & 100%Infill as recommended settings
3. Proceed to the installation as follows:
   • Attach the original Spool Holder to the Bracket, using two bolts of correct size
   • Attach the bracket to the printer using at least two T-Nuts
4. Here is the final result:

4) Ultrabase Plate in Micro-perforated Latex

Differently from LK5 PRO, which is equipped with a Micro-perforated glass plate, LK4 PRO has a glass plate covered with a rough ceramic film, excellent for having a perfect print adhesion, however it may often be difficult to remove the prints from the glass, as the adhesion remains unchanged even with a cold plate.

For this reason, it could be a good solution to proceed with the installation of a Micro-perforated glass plate also on the LK4 PRO, so as to obtain excellent adhesion during printing and easy removal of prints from the cold plate. In fact, the Longer Micro-perforated Latex plate is equipped with micropores, which with heat (starting from 60 °C) it "sticks" to the first printing layer, thus ensuring excellent adhesion as long as the plate remains hot. At the end of printing, cooling the micropores gradually it releases the printed surface, so the printed object will simply be placed on the plate and can be easily removed.

This upgrade can be got really easily, as it can be purchased at all our official Longer stores, at a very low price:

• Longer Official Store:
  https://www.longer3d.com/collections/lattice-glass/products/ceramic-coated-glass-to-longer-lk4-lk4-pro
• Longer Amazon Store:
  On your local Amazon website
• Longer Aliexpress Store:
  https://a.aliexpress.com/_v4j7KG

Once you install all these upgrades, your LK4 PRO will be like a mini-LK5 PRO!
Our guide ends here, but if you need more spare parts or would like to make extra upgrades, then do not hesitate to contact us on our Official Longer Facebook pages or at our email address:  support@longer3d.com

https://www.longer3d.com/products/lk5-pro-fdm-3d-printer

First of all

LONGER LK5 PRO firmware download: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1xvMYLhAvwqhYiqoT559U8gBzruGjQ_AE?usp=sharing

1. About LK5 PRO install steps

If you find it lost, please contact our technical team at support@longer.net; after confirmation, we will resend the new part to you.

We make video tutorials about installation steps; please follow:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F_VzVxOhHSo

2. First turn on

The touch screen is not bright

Confirm whether the input voltage range of the switching power supply is consistent with the electricity voltage in the area and the screen cable is connected.
If still does not work, check the power indicator and the mainboard indicator (method: remove the bottom mainboard protective cover; refer to the video in the link below.)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K8Jwu-faDfQ

Fan noise and abnormal sound.

Make sure that the fan blades are not damaged and that there are no foreign objects. You can email fan photos to support@longer.net help you confirm.

3. Leveling bed

The distance between the hot end nozzle and the hot bed is 0.1-0.2 mm. follow below video leveling bed: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TJ0MOFPuOTQ. If it still can't be solved, put the hot bed glass and aluminum substrate on a flat table to check whether there is bending, if the bed bending, contact LONGER 3D technical team: support@longer.net

4. Zeroing failed

Failed to return to zero/abnormal noise of return to zero/impact limit still does not stop motion. Please check whether the limit switch is complete and the installation condition, and follow the video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m3sQGZVFDqY., check the cable installation condition.

About the Z-axis limit switch height adjustment, refer to the video in the link below.
https://youtu.be/F_VzVxOhHSo?t=255

5. Load/unload filament

Error8

Check the real-time hot-end temperature display on the screen. If it is negative, check the installation of the thermistor plug; make sure it is installed as below:

If anything good about thermistor, that is hot end issue, in this case we should follow the below video to change hot end: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RwpLTFwFzAg

Error0 or Error12

Check the installation of the hot-end thermistor and the plug of the hot-end heating rod.
If the installation is normal, the cable may be broken. Replace the hot end;

The extruder is not working

1. Check the installation of the extruder cable plug (E refers to the extruder).
   2. The extruder defaults to work after reaching the hot end set temperature (minimum 195 degrees). If it still cannot work, check the installation of the extruder motor wire.
   3. If it still can't work, exchange the X and E motor wire plugs, control the movement respectively, and report the situation to the after-sale service.

Filament cannot be extruded

When, without loading the filament, the extruder works fine, this situation is a hot end block. When the filament is not loaded, the extruder works abnormally; please contact the after-sales service directly support@longer.net

Nozzle smoking

Check the thermistor is completely detached or loosely installed (check when cooling); reinstall it.

6. Start printing

If LK5 PRO printer does not recognize the Micro SD card file

Use a tool to format the Micro SD card and reload the file.
Micro SD Card Formatting Software
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1TgCT1CBsjI4-7prSu1nEUXxQ6vhsJzms?usp=sharing
Micro SD card preload file download address
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1zz5mlLMBoa3DguuyG6YDHJJXnhL-XKnJ?usp=sharing
Dip the SD card in alcohol, pull out and insert it into the SD card slot several times. Wait for the alcohol to evaporate completely, and restart the machine to check whether it works again.

If still not work, contact LONGER 3D technical team: support@longer.net

Newly added files not recognized

LONGER LK5 PRO recognizes the Gcode file in the root directory of the Micro SD card and checks the format of the newly added file.
P.S. Gcode files can be generated by slicing software.
If still not work, contact LONGER 3D technical team: support@longer.net.

Error 9

Check that the touch screen displays the real-time hotbed temperature, and if it is negative, check the installation of the hotbed cable plug.
The cable is installed normally. Use a multimeter to check the resistance of the aluminum substrate.
video about measure the resistance of the hot bed socket: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yFV3JCilzA8

If still not work, contact LONGER 3D technical team: support@longer.net

Error 1/13

Check the heatbedcable plug installation.
Check the resistance of the aluminum substrate. If it is normal, replace the cable for testing. If the cable is still abnormal, contact LONGER 3D technical team: support@longer3d.com

The print size is too small

Check the computer slicing software to set the print format.
If this does not resolve, check the printer firmware information.
PS: LK5 Pro firmware and update guide files can be downloaded at the link: 

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1rRos32XckF5ZlI5tYlCTlyt22E_BlQXP/view?usp=sharing. 

LONGER LK5 PRO 3D printer firmware upgrade in this article:

https://www.longer3d.com/blogs/academy/longer-lk5-pro-full-use-tutorial Filament not sticking to platform

Check whether the slicing software parameters are the default parameters of the Cura Longer machine, and try to relevel (the proper distance between the nozzle and the printing bed is the thickness of a sheet of A4 paper). For leveling the bed, check the video in the link below.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TJ0MOFPuOTQ
After leveling bed, add "ralf" while slicing the model
If still not work, please check, Check if the heat bed is bent in  3, Leveling bed

Filament not extruded

1. When the motor shaft of the extruder rotates, the engagement gear does not rotate; install the engagement gear fixing screw.
2. If the extruder does not work, switch the motor test; refer to the video.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XCjrieoyZ1c
3. If the distance between the hot end nozzle and the hot bed is too close, relevel it.
4. If the hot end is blocked, replace the hot end. Refer to 5.4 for the inspection method.

7. Other issue

Wrong firmware

Download the LK5 Pro firmware and update the guide file and update the firmware:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1rRos32XckF5ZlI5tYlCTlyt22E_BlQXP/view?usp=sharing
Refer to 6.5.

During the printing process

If the power input is normal, it still display "Resume printing." In this situation, please update the firmware to the Marlin 2.0 version. the following is the firmware download link:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/10mY1k7CIIJYEa2HbqzdXNSre7h4x6Zfa/view?usp=sharing

Refer to the link below for the firmware update tutorial.
https://www.longer3d.com/blogs/academy/longer-lk5-pro-full-use-tutorial
After updating the firmware, the problem still cannot be solved; contact LONGER 3D technical team at support@longer.net

bending, After the printer turned on, the touch screen is stuck on the boot page, and the firmware cannot be loaded, please confirm the touch screen cable is connected situation, if cable not issue, please contact LONGER 3D technical team: support@longer.net

For centuries, Valentine’s Day has been an important day for millions of couples all over the globe. As soon as February begins, you see stores decorated with red heart balloons, teddy bears, and other Valentine's Day themed goodies. Finding a gift on Valentine’s Day for a loved one that's unique can be a little complicated. You might get lost going through multiple stores in an attempt to find something meaningful for your significant other. After all, the day is meant to be a symbol of your love.

You might have the perfect dinner planned at the best restaurant in town, but the gift is the real star of the show that they will cherish forever. Gifts are essential on Valentine's Day, just as it is on a birthday or any special occasion. However, the difference here is the meaning attached to the day. Valentine's Day gifts are practically your way of saying how much you love your significant other. It is a gift that they will cherish for years to come and consider a symbol of your love. The question then is how to give innovative and unique gifts. If you need some help, we've got great Valentine’s Day gift ideas for you.

Try Out a 3D Printer:

When it comes to Valentine’s Day gifts for her, we’re sure a personalized gift will be considered extra special. Think about a gift that you created on your own that was executed to perfection. Even if you feel as if you are unartistic or can’t draw well, a 3D printer can do all of that for you! Since it is a technological innovation that creates a physical object from s picture, it’s a great way to make Valentine’s Day gifts for him too.

All you need to do is get your hands on a 3D printer, and you can make new fantastic gifts on many Valentine's Days. The great thing about these is that there are no limits to what you can create. It's left to your imagination. It could be an inside joke, the place you met, a little keepsake, or even a big centerpiece.

What Can 3D Printers Do?

If you don't know much about 3D printers, then you're in for a surprise. These phenomenal devices can create a three-dimensional object from an image using CAD (computer-aided design). It works somewhat like ordinary printers but with a twist. Instead of using ink and paper, a 3D printer uses a material of your choice, such as plastics, composites, or biomaterials, to create the image that you instructed it to create.

For example, if you wanted to create a little figurine of a boat out of plastic, you just load a roll of plastic up into the printer. It will melt it and place it in a way that will create the figurine that was selected. You can create this image in any software as long as it is a 3D image. It does so by layering the materials that you selected to objects of any shape, size, rigidity, and color.

A Great 3D Printer:

If you're interested in this excellent method to make Valentine's Day gifts, a great option is the LK5 Pro FDM 3D Printer from the trusted company LONGER 3D. This is one of the many 3D Printers that are available from LONGER, which has had multiple successful customers in the past. Moreover, now the Love Season Sale of LONGER has a huge discount. Here are some features of the LK5 Pro:

• Assembly and structure:

The LONGER LK5 Pro is one of the printers that comes mostly preassembled. It is incredibly annoying to put one together from scratch, but this one is much easier. It is an affordable 3D Printer that is 90% preassembled. It has a printing structure of 300*300*400 mm, which is pretty great for your Valentine's Day gifts. Its dual inclined rods, along with the stable triangular structure, hold all three axes steadily in place.

• Glass bed:

The bed of the printer is immensely important. It needs to have enough friction for the project to stay in place during printing but be smooth enough to peel off once it is complete. The LK5 Pro has a glass bed coated with ceramic. This allows for both steadiness during printing and eases while peeling it off.

• High temperature resistance:

The Teflon tubes within the printer can withstand up to 280℃. This means that the nozzle won't clog up with material, and the printing will be constant. No gaps or inconsistencies will occur due to nozzle blockage.

• Quiet printing:

The printer has three kits of TMC2208 chipsets for all of the axis. This means the entire printing process will have an extremely low noise as the motor will not work too loudly. Unlike many other 3D printers, the LK5 Pro will work quietly throughout the printing process.

• Touch screen control:

The printer has a 4.3-inch touch screen in color. This provides a better user interface that will help you work with the printer.

How to Make Your Valentine’s Day Gifts:

If your Valentine’s Day ideas now involve a 3D Printer, you might want to know how to make one. Here is a step-by-step method on how to make a fantastic gift on Valentine’s Day with a 3D printer:

1. Create your image using any software and save it into an SD card. The extension should be “.gcode” as this is what the printer will recognize.
2. Preheat your printer and grab your material. To check if the heat is alright, insert your material into the extruder until some of it starts coming out of the nozzle.
3. Insert your SD card into the printer. On the touch screen, select print, then files, and select whatever you want to print. After this, hit print, and the printer will start doing its job.
4. Wait for the printer to finish. When it is done, the screen will display a message saying the printing is complete.
5. Peel your Valentine's Day gifts off the base, and you've got the perfect gift for your loved one.

What Can You Make:

With a 3D Printer like the LK5 Pro, you can make almost anything that you put your heart into. If you feel stuck, here are a few ideas:

• A figurine of your first date. For example, if you went on a yacht ride, get the yacht printed out.
• A little figurine of an inside joke. This could be anything at all. Think about a special moment in your relationship and get creative.
• A model of something you plan to do together in the future. For example, design a house that the two of you plan to build with time or a city you’d like to visit.
• Go classic with roses. Who wouldn’t want a bunch of roses that last forever? With a 3D printer, you can make it happen!

Summary:

Now you probably know what to do on Valentine's Day when you understand the power of 3D Printers. Giving your loved one a gift on Valentine’s Day is probably much easier now, isn’t it? We understand how important this gift can be, which is why an innovative gift that has a personal touch is a great idea. The LK5 Pro FDM 3D printer from Longer is a great option if you are looking for a phenomenal printer that will produce the best gift ever. It has multiple benefits and is extremely user-friendly. So, you can definitely create a perfect Valentine’s Day gift, or two, for your significant other in no time.

https://www.longer3d.com/products/lk5-pro-fdm-3d-printer