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Longer Ray5 5W and Longer Ray5 10W allow you to engrave and cut different types of materials, quickly and easily. However, for each type of processing it is necessary to set different parameters regarding power and speed, precisely because each type of material reacts differently to the laser beam.

To have a reference about what power and speed to adopt for each type of material, there is a fairly complete table accurately reporting the best parameters to use.

However, the table can only be understood as a general reference; in fact, assuming you want to cut the basswood with Longer Ray5 10W, the recommended parameter is 100% power & 350 mm/min speed, but there are various types of basswood, and each one reacts differently during cutting, so it is not said that these parameters are perfect for each type of basswood, since some basswood could be burned instead of simply cut or not cut at all.

In order to obtain the correct parameters for the type of basswood you intend to cut, Lightburn has a powerful material test tool, which allows you to quickly determine the most specific and correct parameters. From the Lightburn home screen, select Laser Tools – Material Test; this screen will open:

First, set the Count value to 5 for Vertical and Count to 4 for Horizontal; Also, set Height and Width to 5.00 mm.

Since the recommended parameters for cutting the basswood are 100% power & 350 mm/min speed, you can set a range between 100 and 500 mm/min for speed and a range between 50% and 80% for power (so as to avoid stressing the laser with 100% power).

Next, proceed with Edit Text Setting:

This screen is used to engrave the labels of the test table. Since it is an engraving, set 3000 mm/min speed and 50% Power; Also, set Mode Fill.
Confirm by pressing OK.

At this point, proceed with Edit Material Settings:

In this screen you can set the method of processing the material; since it is a matter of cutting, select Mode Line, and possibly set Number of Passes to 1 or more.
Confirm by pressing OK.

Once back on the main screen, press Save Gcode to export the test file, copy it to the microSD, and start testing on Longer Ray5.

When Ray5 has completed the job, reviewing the table will help you determine which parameters are best to set.

Similarly, if you want to proceed with an engraving test instead of cutting, open the Material Test screen. Since the recommended parameters for engraving the basswood are 35% Power & 3000 mm/min speed, set the testing range as shown in the image below:

On the Edit Material Settings screen, since this is an engraving, select Mode Fill:

Once back on the main screen, press Save Gcode to export the test file, copy it to the microSD and start testing on Longer Ray5.

When Ray5 has completed the job, reviewing the table will help you determine which parameters are best to set.

Note that, before exporting the Gcode, both for a cut test and for an engraving test, you can always select Preview, which allows you to see in advance how the final result will look.

Above is the introduction of parameter settings and material testing , hope it can help you. If you still have any questions during the operation, please visit our Support Page. Our knowledgeable staff is happy to assist you and your team with any questions.

The Longer Laser RAY5 Series is capable of engraving a wide range of materials, including plywood, basswood, hardwood, pinewood, acrylic, kraft paper, stainless steel, aluminum alloy, ceramics, and more. Additionally, the Longer RAY5 can cut materials such as basswood, acrylic, bamboo, kraft paper, and more.

With its powerful engraving and cutting capabilities, it transcends boundaries to become the best engraving machine and the best laser cutter for a variety of materials. Seamlessly transition from a wood laser cutter to a metal laser engraver, or even become a master jewelry engraver. Discover boundless, unlimited potential with the Longer Laser RAY5 Series.

Read more

• LONGER Test: Cutting Images with LaserGRBL and Longer Laser B1 & Ray5
• Longer Ray5 Laser Engraving, Carving and Cutting Applications
• LONGER Research: Exploring Ray5 10W Laser Engraving Applications in the Food Industry
• LONGER Research: Ray5 5W Laser Engraving Techniques for Personal Protective Equipment
• Lens Cleaning for Longer Ray5 5W

Visible light and laser beam have in common the same nature, as both are composed of photons, however the difference between them is in the fact that visible light has an optically isotropic propagation (that is, it propagates identically in all directions) while in the laser all the energy is concentrated within a single beam of very small section. Therefore, when the laser hits matter, it is instantly able to radiate a great power in a very small area, causing a sudden and rapid increase in temperature that alters the state of matter.

Laser engraving machines, such as Longer Ray5, are able to emit a laser beam that instantly transforms the state of matter by combustion, and the contrast between the laser-subjected surface and the surrounding surface creates the visual effect commonly called Laser Engraving. However, the energy hitting a single point is not limited to that point, but the heat generated is also transmitted to the areas surrounding the point, causing the typical burning effect of laser processing.

In order to avoid or reduce this effect, an air assist mechanism can be used, which consists of a compressor capable of continuously blowing pressurized air directly onto the area subjected to the laser. In this way, the heat exchanged between the laser area and the surrounding area is mitigated by the fresh air of the Air Assist compressor, thus avoiding the burnt effect around the laser engraving. In addition, the air blown on the engraving zone cancels the heat exchange with the surrounding areas but does not damage the engraving ability of the laser beam. A simple example to understand this phenomenon can be this: if on a summer day with the sun high in the sky you go to the sea, if there is wind, then you feel cool, while if there is no wind, then you feel hot, but in both cases the sun causes burns to the skin in the same way.

Longer Ray5 10W Air Assist installation

The longer Ray5 10W has an official Air Assist kit that consists of two parts, the nozzle kit and the air compressor, available at the following link: https://www.longer3d.com/products/air-assist-set .

Installing the Longer Air Assist on the 10W laser module is really easy; just follow the steps below:

• First, proceed to disassemble the laser module from the rest of the machine

• Install the metal nozzle on the laser module

• Connect a rubber hose between the metal nozzle and the pressure regulator, and connect another part of the rubber hose to the regulator inlet

• Connect the inlet pipe of the regulator to the outlet of the air compressor

• Finally, install the laser module on the Ray5, activate the compressor switch and start an engraving from the Longer Ray5 display

Longer Ray5 5W Air Assist installation

To proceed with the installation of the Air Assist kit on the Longer Ray5 5W, it is necessary to purchase, as for the 10W version, the kit consisting of the nozzle kit and the air compressor, available at the following link: https://www.longer3d.com/products/air-assist-set . However, the metal nozzle included inside the kit is compatible with 10W module only; therefore, it is necessary to have a 3D printer to print with PLA or PETG the following nozzle:https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5585296 .

Installing the Longer Air Assist on the 5W laser module is really easy; just follow the same steps as the installing method for the 10W laser module, but install the 3D-printed nozzle on the laser module instead of the metal nozzle. After that, as mentioned, just follow the same steps as shown for installation on the 10W module.

Conclusions

The use of air assist not only increases the engraving quality but can also increase the laser's cutting capacity thanks to the possibility of removing smoke and combustion debris thanks to the continuous breath of air; without air assist, these would end up settling on the laser lens, hindering the output laser beam of the module. Whether for hobbyist or professional use, Longer Air Assist is absolutely recommended if you want to achieve the maximum performance offered by Longer Ray5 10W and Longer Ray5 5W.

https://www.longer3d.com/collections/laser-engraver

A Honeycomb Working Table is a working base used in laser cutting machines that has a surface composed of a structure similar to that of a honeycomb, usually made of aluminum or steel. Thanks to the presence of regular holes, this surface allows the laser to pass through the processing and thus cut the material more easily, also leaving gaps to escape the gases and particles produced during the cutting process.

Using an aluminum worktop such as the Longer Honeycomb Working Table has numerous advantages over using a flat worktop or other types of work surfaces. First of all, the honeycomb allows to minimize the contact between the material to be cut and the work surface, reducing the risk of damage to the material itself; In addition, the honeycomb structure provides solid support to the material being processed, preventing the surface of the material from bending or deforming during laser cutting.

Another important feature of Longer Honeycomb Working Table is that it helps to maintain a good circulation of gases that can collect in the work area during the cutting process, preventing burnt particles and combustion slag from sticking to the surface of the wood, improving the quality of the cut and reducing the risk of damage to the wood itself. In addition, the honeycomb structure can also reduce the thermal effect during laser cutting: in fact, when the laser hits the material, the heat produced can cause deformation, ripples or burns of the material, however the honeycomb can reduce the thermal effect because it allows heat to be dissipated evenly around the material, cooling it much faster than a closed base. However, it requires regular cleaning to ensure that the holes do not become clogged and that gas circulation is optimal. Finally, being totally open, Longer Honeycomb Working Table can be equipped with a suction system under it, in order to remove the combustion gases created by the laser during cutting, preventing smoke and particles from being dispersed into the environment and thus maintaining a clean and safe work area for the operator.

The Longer Honeycomb Working Table can be used when engraving or cutting a wide range of materials, including glass, wood, paper, textiles and metals, as its aluminum structure does not react with these materials. Moreover, thanks to its perfectly leveled and flat surface, the engravings are also improved because the laser beam manages to maintain an equidistance at all points of the material to be engraved.

If you do not use the Longer Honeycomb Working Table, several negative effects can occur in the laser cutting process. First, direct contact between the material to be cut and the surface of the worktable can increase the risk of damage to the material in the part in contact with the worktop due to the lack of heat dissipation. Secondly, burnt particles and slag produced during the cutting process can accumulate on the work surface, damaging it and causing permanent stains. For these reasons it is always recommended to use Longer Honeycomb Working Table which acts as a support for the workpiece and as a work surface, avoiding that the laser beam comes into contact with your table. In addition, Longer Honeycomb can be replaced relatively easily when it becomes too ruined by the many processes: this is undoubtedly much more convenient than having to change tables.

For these reasons, Longer Honeycomb Working Table is one of the best accessories for those who use a laser engraving and cutting machine, as it improves the quality of laser cutting, reduces damage to the cut material and increases the overall efficiency of the machining process.

https://www.longer3d.com/collections/laser-engraver-accessories

Longer Laser Rotary Roller is a fundamental accessory for all those who carry out laser engraving work, as it is possible to make engravings on curved surfaces with ease, which would be impossible to perform without this accessory.

Everyone who uses a laser engraving machine knows well that in order for the laser to engrave a surface it is necessary that the laser beam is focused. Assuming that, in order for the laser beam to be in focus it is necessary that the distance between the laser module and the surface to be engraved is 50mm, once the right distance has been established it is possible to engrave any point of the surface as the equidistance is respected at every point. However, if the surface to be engraved is not flat but curved, then the equidistance is not respected; in fact, as you can see from the image below, the focus (fixed in point A) is lost as soon as the laser module moves with respect to the focus point.

To solverand this problem it is necessary to use the Longer Laser Rotary Roller, which causes the surface to be engraved (through a rotation) to move instead of the laser module. In this way, each point of the curved surface to be engraved is brought to the focus point of the laser, i.e. the surface to be engraved makes a "rotation". For this technique to work correctly it is necessary that the surface to be engraved is cylindrical in shape, otherwise the problem of focusing would be solved with respect to the Y axis with the Rotary Roller, but it would occur with respect to the X axis.

The installation of Longer Rotary Roller is really easy: just connect it to the Y-axis connector of your Longer Ray5, and in this way the laser module will move to the X axis, but the movement with respect to the Y axis will be applied to the Rotary Roller instead of the Y axis of the laser module. As for the settings, they are almost the same settings used for engraving on a flat surface. In fact, if you want to engrave a 10x10cm image, instead of getting a 10x10cm image on a flat surface you will get a 10x10cm engraving on a curved surface, so the result in terms of size does not change. To better understand this concept, it is similar to when you remove the label from a jar: the label on the jar is curved, when you remove it and place it on a plane it becomes flat, but in both cases the label is always the same and the dimensions do not change.  

In order for the movement steps to be respected, the Rotary Roller must be set differently according to the size of the object on which you intend to make the laser engraving. In detail, about the gear of the roller, you can refer to these dimensions in order to keep the correct steps:

1: Distance between two axes is 5mm, suitable for engraving 6-38mm diameter objects

2: Distance between two axes is 23mm, suitable for engraving 38-70mm diameter objects

3: Distance between two axes is 41mm, suitable for engraving 70-102mm diameter objects

4: Distance between two axes is 59mm, suitable for engraving 102-134mm diameter objects

5: Distance between two axes is 77mm, suitable for engraving 134-166mm diameter objects

6: Distance between two axes is 95mm, suitable for engraving 166-200mm diameter objects

Using the Longer Laser Rotary Roller allows you to expand the functionality of your Longer Ray5, as you can easily engrave many everyday objects, such as pens, jars, cylindrical objects and much more.

https://www.longer3d.com/collections/laser-engraver-accessories

In general, the choice between PETG and PLA depends on the specific needs of the 3D printing you intend to do. If you want greater impact resistance, flexibility, and chemical resistance, PETG may be your best choice. Instead, if you want a cheap, easy-to-print, and biodegradable material, PLA may be the best choice. In particular, PETG is a very resistant and flexible filament, ideal for printing large-volume objects and resistant to the effects of chemicals such as acids and alkalis; moreover, compared to PLA, PETG is more resistant to heat and less fragile, so it is great for making prints that will be placed outside and exposed to sunlight.

PETG is a copolymer that combines the properties of PET and glycol. The addition of the latter reduces the problems of overheating of PET and, consequently, increases its resistance. For these reasons, PETG is one of the most commonly used filaments and is an excellent choice for printing parts subjected to mechanical stress and heat; moreover, PETG has an almost absent odor during printing, even if it is a material derived from petroleum and therefore not biodegradable.

PLA is a lactic acid polymer and was the second bioplastic marketed and sold on a large scale. It derives from the milling of corn and is to be considered biodegradable, even if it requires precise conditions to trigger the decomposition process. PLA has some advantages over PETG, such as greater ease of printing, greater rigidity, better surface quality, and lower cost, although it fears heat and weathering.

Therefore, summarizing the advantages of PETG over PLA, here is a list of technical characteristics:

• Impact resistance: PETG is more impact resistant than PLA. This means that PETG is less likely to break during use.
• Flexibility: PETG is more flexible than PLA, which makes it better for printing parts that require a certain amount of flexibility or need to resist warping.
• Chemical resistance: PETG has higher chemical resistance than PLA, which makes it more suitable for printing parts that come into contact with chemicals or solvents.
• Ease of printing: PETG is easier to print than other materials such as ABS and nylon but offers very similar characteristics to these. However, compared to PLA, PETG is more difficult to print.
• Temperature resistance: PETG has greater temperature resistance than PLA and can withstand higher temperatures without deforming or losing its shape.
• Weather resistance: PETG is more weather resistant than PLA, which makes it more suitable for printing parts for outdoor use.
• UV light resistance: PETG has greater resistance to UV light than PLA. This means that PETG is less susceptible to yellowing or degradation caused by exposure to UV light.
• Dimensional tolerance: PETG has a higher dimensional tolerance than PLA. This means that PETG molded parts can have higher dimensional accuracy than PLA.

In general, PETG is a versatile and durable material that can be used for a wide range of applications. However, like any material, it also has some disadvantages, such as the need to use higher printing temperatures than PLA and a greater propensity to create stringing filaments. In addition, PETG may require more attention in the preparation of the print bed and in the calibration of the printer than PLA; however, if you choose PETG and take all the precautions seen in a previous article, the printing result can be of high quality.

In conclusion, both materials have their advantages and disadvantages, and the choice depends on the specific needs of the project. When choosing between PETG and PLA, it is important to consider the strength, flexibility, chemical resistance, ease of printing, heat resistance, weather resistance, durability, availability, cost, sustainability, color, appearance, and specific applications of the project you want to achieve.

https://www.longer3d.com/products/lk5-pro-fdm-3d-printer

Longer FDM 3D printers are capable of printing PETG with high quality. This type of material offers many advantages, as it can be printed as easily as PLA but is as durable as ABS.

To 3D print the PETG, you need to make sure that the 3D printer is set up correctly to print the PETG. This includes material selection, nozzle and hotbed temperature, extrusion speed, and other settings related to print quality. In addition, when printing PETG, it is recommended to always keep an eye on the press to make sure that everything goes according to plan and that there are no problems.

The recommended parameters for printing with PETG in 3D may vary depending on the 3D printer, the type of PETG purchased, and the project you want to carry out. However, here are some common printing parameters for PETG:

• Extrusion temperature: 220°C – 250°C
• Bed temperature: 70°C – 90°C
• Print speed: 40 mm/s – 80 mm/s
• Fan speed: 0% - 30%
• Retraction distance: 4 mm–8mm
• Retraction speed: 30 mm/s – 40 mm/s
• Layer height: 0.2 mm

Keep in mind that these are only basic values, and small adjustments may be necessary to achieve the best results based on your specific needs. In fact, there are a few other factors that could affect printing with PETG:

• Adhesion to the bed: it may be useful to use an adhesive solution to be affixed to the glass or a latex/PEI top to increase the adhesion of the material to the printing bed.
• Fan cooling: it is important to keep the fan off or at a minimum to cool the newly extracted material, as cooling too fast can cause warping and weakening of the structure.
• Extrusion: It is important that the extruder is able to extrude a constant amount of material during printing, so the temperature must be set high enough.
• Bed leveling: A well-leveled bed can ensure that the model has an even base and that there are no detached parts during printing.
• Speed: Printing speeds that are too fast can cause warping or adhesion effects. Adjust the print speed to achieve a balance between quality and print time.
• Temperature: Extrusion temperature can affect material properties, such as flexibility and strength. Make sure the temperature is high enough to ensure good extrusion but not too high to cause other problems.
• Print bed cleaning: Make sure the print bed is clean and free of dust or other things that could affect material adhesion.

These are just some of the factors that can affect printing with PETG. It is advisable to do some tests to understand which combination of parameters works best for your 3D printer and for your specific project. In addition, it is important to use a quality material and store it correctly, since PETG can be sensitive to changes in temperature and humidity; therefore, it is necessary to store the filament in an airtight container along with a silica bag to maintain the quality of the material. In general, the key to successful printing with PETG is to experiment and optimize printing parameters according to the specific needs of the project. However, once you have learned how to 3D print PETG, this is a material that allows you to create resistant, flexible, and quality objects. For best results, it's important to follow recommendations on printing parameters, such as temperature, speed, and media usage, and pay attention to design and post-processing details.

https://www.longer3d.com/products/lk5-pro-fdm-3d-printer

FDM 3D printers on the market usually work at 12V or 24V. The choice is made based on the characteristics of the product, the type of user to whom it is intended, and also the production costs; however, even if the operation of a printer is identical, regardless of the working voltage, there are clear differences depending on whether the operation is based on 12V or 24V.

In physics, it is shown that the electric power (Watt) is the multiplication between the voltage (Volt) and the intensity of electric current (Ampere), i.e. P = V * I ; therefore, with the same power, as the voltage increases, the current decreases (and vice versa). In addition, the charge carriers that make up the electric current generate heat by moving inside the conductors, so the higher the current intensity, the greater the charge carriers, the greater the heat that develops. In fact, for this reason the power lines that transport electricity from one part of the various continents and nations to another operate at high voltage, as this allows the use of cables of lesser thickness (less passage of current) with the same power supplied; then, only locally the transport takes place at domestic voltage (110V / 230V), so as to be compatible with domestic electrical equipment.

Based on these premises, it becomes much easier to understand that an FDM 3D printer operating at 24V can have the following advantages:

• to heat a Hotend with a resistor of 40W are sufficient only 1.67A (against the 3.33A needed at 12V)
• to heat a Hotbed with a resistor of 180W are sufficient only 7.5A (against the 15A needed at 12V)

This means less heating of the cables and connectors on the mainboard, minimizing the risk of connector fire and overheating of the mainboard's smd components, resulting in irreversible damage.

For these reasons, Longer FDM 3D printers operate at 24V so that we can offer all customers the best possible product.

 https://www.longer3d.com/products/lk5-pro-fdm-3d-printer

While using an FDM 3D printer, you may need to replace the hotend. In fact, a little space between the heatbreak and nozzle, or a failure of the heatsink fan, or any other type of problem could cause a clog that prevents normal extrusion during printing, and the only way to repair the fault is to disassemble or replace the hotend.

Replacing the hotend is an easy procedure but one that requires the utmost attention.
In order to proceed with the replacement, follow these steps.

Disassembly

1) Unscrew the screw that holds the thermistor in place and remove the thermistor and temperature sensor

2) Disassemble the Hotend, then unscrew the screw that holds the Heatsink in place and remove the heatsink.

3) Remove the PTFE tube from the heatbreak.

4) In case the end of the PTFE tube is damaged, cut the damaged part, taking care to make a vertical cut at 90 degrees; an inaccurate cut will cause molten material to leak during printing, causing a new clog. In order to proceed to a precise cut, it is recommended to use a "PTFE cutter" available as an accessory for 3D printing or you can proceed to print an STL file by searching on Thingiverse for "PTFE cutter."

Replacement

1) Screw the Heatbreak correctly into the heatblock.

2) Screw the Nozzle into the Heatblock

3) Install the Heatsink

4) Mount the Hotend on the 3D printer

5) Unscrew a little the Nozzle (about half a turn), then insert the PTFE tube until it hits with the nozzle.

6) Insert the thermistor and the temperature sensor into the block, fixing them with the appropriate screw

7) Heat the Hotend up to 200°C, then screw the Nozzle well so that it is tight with the PTFE tube and the heatbreak.

Once you have completed these steps, the new hotend will be ready to use.
The correct assembly ensures good operation and avoids new clogs due to leakage of molten material between the heatbreak and the nozzle.

https://www.longer3d.com/products/lk5-pro-fdm-3d-printer

The Hotend is the part of an FDM 3D printer that deals with the melting and deposition of molten plastic material. Therefore a Hotend is composed of a Nozzle that deals with depositing the molten material, a Heatblock that deals with the melting of the material, and a Heatbreak that keeps the hot zone separate from the cold area of the Hotend. The Heatbreak can be equipped with a Heatsink, equipped in turn with a fan.

Hotends come in various shapes and sizes, however common and popular types are the Hotend MK8 and Hotend e3d V6.

Hotend MK8

The Hotend MK8 are composed of Nozzle, Heatblock, Heatbreak and Heatsink, and provide for the insertion of the PTFE tube in beat with the nozzle. This implies that the PTFE tube is inserted inside the Heatbreak, then the filament flows inside the PTFE tube and reaches the nozzle directly, without intermediate zones.

The PTFE tube, in the part in contact with Nozzle and Heatblock, tends to reach the same melting temperature set for the filament, however this is not a problem as PTFE supports temperatures up to 300 C very well, well beyond the normal printing temperatures of PLA, PETG and ABS. On the other hand, the higher the printing temperature, the greater the amount of heat that the Heatbreak must dissipate; in fact, when the heat is not dissipated properly, it tends to rise inside the PTFE causing the filament to melt in areas far from the Nozzle, resulting in obstructions that prevent the filament from passing. For this reason, it is necessary to accompany the Heatbreak with a heatsink heatsink with fan, in this way the heat passage is quickly interrupted.

The Hotend MK8 is ideal for printing most filaments, however for printing more technical materials it may be unsuitable. In fact, printing filaments that require a high temperature, such as polyamide (nylon), also require a large dissipation capacity; however, the structure of the MK8 Heatsink is not able to dissipate much heat, moreover the PTFE tube present inside the Heatbreak also begins to lose its characteristics, thus causing obstructions.

Hotend e3d V6

The Hotend e3d V6 are composed of Nozzle, Heatblock, Heatbreak and Heatsink, and provide both the insertion of the PTFE tube in batting with the nozzle and the PTFE tube in batting with the Heatbreak. This implies that the PTFE tube is inserted inside the Heatbreak, then the filament flows inside the PTFE tube and reaches the nozzle directly, without intermediate zones, or the PTFE is beaten at the entrance of the Heatbreak and the filament passes through an all-metal area before reaching the nozzle. Therefore, the Hotend e3d V6 provides two different configurations of Heatbreak, or the classic Heatbreak with PTFE or a Fullmetal Heatbreak.

The Hotend e3d V6 has an improved heatsink, with a larger dissipative surface, so it is ideal for printing most filaments, including printing more technical materials. In fact, even the printing of filaments that require a high temperature, such as polyamide (nylon), can be performed thanks to the great dissipation capacity; moreover, if the temperature is excessive for the PTFE tube present inside the Heatbreak, then it is possible to use a Fullmetal Heatbreak that does not suffer from temperature problems.

Unfortunately, due to its large size, it is often very difficult to install a Hotend e3d V6 on smaller printers, for this reason the default installation of a Hotend MK8 is often preferred, which is able to perform almost any printing option for common users with a small footprint.

 https://www.longer3d.com/products/lk5-pro-fdm-3d-printer

Si vous voulez graver correctement quoi que ce soit, vous aurez besoin d'un graveur laser. En effet, les lasers sont extrêmement précis. Parce qu'ils vendent les graveurs Ray5 5W et Ray5 10W, les gens de plus sont un endroit fantastique pour commencer. La taille, la puissance et la distance focaux du faisceau sont les principales distinctions entre elles; Néanmoins, ils peuvent graver une quantité importante de matériel.

Si vous recherchez un outil pour graver votre objet sélectionné, vous devez choisir le modèle le plus adapté à vos besoins. Eh bien, ne vous inquiétez pas, car nous sommes ici pour vous parler des trois types de base de gravure laser, de leurs différences et d'un guide pour choisir celui qui vous convient en fonction de votre besoin. Sans plus tarder, plongeons-nous directement.

Qu'est-ce que la puissance laser?

Avant de découvrir les trois types de pouvoirs laser, étudions simplement ce qu'est la puissance laser. La force du laser est ce qui détermine la quantité d'énergie prise par la feuille de calcul. La règle de base est que lorsque la puissance laser augmente, l'angle de pliage se développe également, atteint un pic, puis recommence à tomber à mesure que la puissance laser augmente encore plus.

Plus la puissance laser est élevée, plus la chaleur est absorbée, ce qui entraîne une température de pointe plus élevée et, par conséquent, une quantité plus incroyable de déformation plastique à la surface numérisée. Cela entraîne une augmentation de l'angle de pliage. Après avoir atteint son maximum, l'angle de pliage commence à tomber en raison d'une augmentation de la puissance du laser.

C'est principalement le résultat de deux facteurs. Premièrement, la fusion se déroule dans la région qui est irradiée à une puissance supérieure, et l'énergie thermique appliquée est utilisée dans la transformation de phase plutôt que dans la flexion du matériau. Deuxièmement, lorsque la puissance augmente, la température de pointe de la surface du bas du vaisseau augmente également.

Il en résulte une réduction de la différence entre la déformation plastique à la surface supérieure et à la surface inférieure, ce qui entraîne à son tour une réduction de l'angle de pliage à une plus grande puissance.

En termes de puissance laser optique, la grande majorité des graveurs laser les plus populaires du marché ne s'intègrent désormais que dans deux catégories principales, à savoir la puissance optique 5W et 10W. Les modules de la première catégorie contiennent chacun une seule diode laser. En revanche, le Modules 10W Contiennent une optique ingénieuse qui combine la lumière laser à partir de deux sources de diodes laser différentes, ce qui entraîne une puissance de sortie deux fois plus forte que celle des modules à faible puissance.

Que représente exactement le "W"?

La puissance est l'un des aspects les plus importants à considérer lors de la discussion des coupeurs laser. C'est quelque chose que vous devrez spécifier lorsque vous achetez la machine pour la première fois, et c'est le facteur qui affecte la puissance de coupe finale et la vitesse de votre projet.

Lorsque la cote de puissance augmente, le flux d'énergie augmente également. En ce qui concerne les coupeurs laser, avoir un laser 20W plutôt qu'un laser 5W permettra à l'énergie de transférer à un rythme sensiblement plus rapide.

Vous pouvez voir une séquence de lasers à l'intérieur de la tête d'un Rayon plus long 5 Si vous le séparez et regardez le laser à l'intérieur. Cependant, nous vous conseillons fortement de faire cela. La tête du laser 20W est composée de quatre lasers 5W, qui sont tous pointés dans la même direction et concentrés à travers la tête du laser.

Pourquoi? Le but de cela est de générer plus de puissance et plus d'énergie à partir d'un seul faisceau laser.

Différences entre Rayon plus long 5  5W Vs. 10W Vs. 20W

Le rayon 5 W 5W, 10W et 20W plus long partage tous quelques caractéristiques en commun. D'un autre côté, il existe un nombre comparable de différences. Concentrons-nous sur ce qui différencie ces machines dans une série de comparaisons en tête-à-tête afin que vous puissiez rendre la décision la plus éclairée possible sur laquelle acheter.

Puissance de la tête laser

Avant d'aller plus loin, il y a quelque chose qui doit être clarifié: bien que la tête laser soit la seule différence entre les deux, cela a un impact significatif sur le fonctionnement de votre Graveur laser Ray 5, et nous passerons en revue ces différences en profondeur ici.

Quelle que soit l'option de wattage avec laquelle vous allez, le rayon 5 plus long vous fournira le même cadre, capteurs et pièces jointes à utiliser. La tête laser est le seul composant différent.

Le personnel de Ray 5 plus long le fait référence comme un "module de plug-and-play" dans leur explication. Vous n'avez besoin que de deux câbles et de dix minutes de votre temps pour passer d'un coupe-laser 5W ou 10W vers un modèle 20W, ce qui vous donne plus de puissance de coupe.

Les variations de la puissance laser dépendent de la tête laser que vous utilisez et des différents matériaux que vous pouvez couper. Vous pouvez améliorer la puissance de votre laser 5W ou 10W en achetant un Module 20W pour y ajouter.

Pour dire les choses d'une autre manière, si vous voulez un 20W, vous avez la possibilité d'en acheter un spécialement conçu à cet effet. Le seul choix à votre disposition si vous voulez un 5W ou 10W est d'acheter la machine dans son état actuel.

Les avantages sont importants même si l'ajustement est plutôt simple. Les sections suivantes concernent la différence que fait l'échange de tête simple.

Quickness de l'achèvement du projet

Le temps exact qu'il faudra pour terminer le projet dépend de quelques facteurs différents:

• Quickness de l'itinéraire
• Précision de la profondeur de coupe, sélection des matériaux et complexité dans la conception.
• La profondeur de la gravure ou de la coupe.

Les trois autres de ces cinq paramètres ne dépendent en aucune façon de votre coupe-laser. La vitesse à laquelle votre coupe-laser complète votre travail dépend uniquement de la vitesse de routage et des paramètres de vitesse de coupe.

Dans cette compétition, les vitesses des différentes itinéraires ne diffèrent pas les unes des autres. La vitesse de routage du 5W, 10W, et 20W est tout 10000 mm / min, ce qui est beaucoup plus rapide que les générations précédentes.

Où sommes-nous maintenant avec la profondeur de coupe maintenant? Voici où vous verrez un écart important par rapport à la norme. Un laser avec 10 W de puissance peut couper presque exactement deux fois plus profond qu'un laser avec 5 W de puissance. Par rapport au 10W, le 20W a deux fois la profondeur de coupe.

Cela indique qu'il y a une différence théorique dans la profondeur de coupe qui équivaut à quatre fois plus élevée lorsque vous passez de 5W à 20W.

Le rayon plus long indique que la différence peut être très différente selon le matériau utilisé:

En ce qui concerne le temps, il faudra pour accomplir un projet. Un coupe-laser 20W fera le travail le plus rapide, suivi d'un coupe-laser 10W, et enfin, un coupe-laser à rayons 5W sera le plus lent.

Espace pour effectuer des coupes et une zone de travail plus longue Ray 5

Bien que le châssis de chaque rayon 5 plus long soit le même, les zones de coupe des différentes configurations sont également assez comparables. Le rayon plus long 5 5W et le rayon plus long 5 lasers 10W offrent précisément la même zone de coupe, mesurant 400x400 mm (15,75 × 15,75 pouces).

Bien que la tête laser sur le 20W soit significativement plus grande que celle trouvée sur le 10W, la zone de coupe est légèrement réduite. La zone de coupe pour un laser de 20 watts est de 375 × 375 mm (14,76 × 14,76 pouces).

Bien que la différence ne soit pas énorme, elle est néanmoins suffisamment importante pour indiquer que les coupeurs laser 5W et 10W ont un peu d'avantage dans cette catégorie.

Alternatives aux matériaux (capacité de coupe)

Un autre aspect du sujet qui est lié à la puissance laser est les nombreux types de matériaux avec qui peut être travaillé. Tout en tentant de graver ou de réduire certains matériaux, une force et une force significativement plus importantes sont nécessaires.

Vous pouvez travailler avec une plus grande sélection de matériaux lorsque vous avez un 20W. Vous pouvez également travailler avec des matériaux plus substantiels, ce qui ouvre encore plus de possibilités pour les types de projets que vous pouvez développer.

Le Ray5 20W est équipé d'un puissant module laser avec une sortie de 20 W. De plus, cette machine présente la génération la plus récente de technologie d'amélioration laser, ce qui augmente sa capacité de coupe. Il peut couper à 0,002 pouces (0,05 mm) d'acier inoxydable, ainsi que 0,59 pouces (15 mm) de bois de pin et 0,31 pouces (8 mm) d'acrylique en un seul passage.

En raison des progrès récents de la technologie laser comprimée, la tache laser peut désormais être aussi petite que 0,08 * 0,1 mm2, ce qui permet de graver des illustrations avec des lignes plus minces, une texture plus claire et des détails plus attrayants. Et l'interface assistée à l'air est réservée, ce qui permet à une grande variété de pompes à air facilement adaptées à des surfaces plus hygiéniques.

Bien que l'utilisation du coupeur 5W, du métal, de la céramique et de la pierre devienne beaucoup plus difficile à travailler avec, et en toute honnêteté, le réglage de la puissance 5W est plus couramment utilisé pour la gravure que pour la coupe. Lors de l'utilisation d'un coupe-laser 5W ou 10W, la plupart des gens adhèrent aux matériaux de coupe en bois, papier, plastique, cuir, planche PCB, oxyde d'aluminium, placage non réfléchi et métal laqué.

Pensez à obtenir le laser 20W si vous souhaitez travailler avec une variété de différents types de matériaux. Aux fins de nos projets, nous avons réussi à traverser même les Woodlands plus denses.

Précision

Que devez-vous faire si vous avez besoin de tracer des lignes sur un composant extrêmement mince et précis? Dans ce scénario, nous vous conseillons fortement d'éviter d'utiliser la tête laser 20W, même si le risque est encore relativement faible.

La taille du spot du laser 20W est de 0,08 × 0,10 mm. Imaginez que la tache laser est le point où un pointeur laser est pointé. Si le rayon utilise ce pointeur laser pour couper, vous voudrez que la pointe soit aussi petite que possible.

Les taches laser du 5W sont de 0,08 × 0,08 mm et les 10W sont des lasers 0,06 × 0,06 mm. La tache laser du laser 20W est nettement plus grande.

Donc, si vous avez besoin d'un composant précis, vous devez vous en tenir au 5W ou au 10W.

Différentes capacités de gravure

Les pièces peuvent également être gravées avec ce type de coupe-laser, qui est une autre fonction utile de ces machines. Une petite quantité de matériau est retirée de la surface supérieure pour produire des conceptions via la gravure. Parce que la gravure ne va pas aussi profondément que la coupe, la puissance requise n'est pas aussi importante.

Le Rayon 5WLa capacité de graver est considérablement améliorée grâce à un point laser plus petit et une précision plus élevée que son prédécesseur. Étant donné que le composant n'a besoin que d'une passe avec le laser et que la vitesse de routage est la même dans tous les domaines pour ces trois possibilités, le 5W est celui qui doit être choisi.

Si vous avez besoin de graver et de couper le même objet, aller avec le 10W laser Peut-être le meilleur choix pour vous. Il possède un excellent équilibre de la force de tranchage et de la précision.

Faire des créations colorées

La capacité de générer des gravures colorées sur le métal est une capacité spéciale qui est exclusive au Rayon de 20 W plus long 5 et ne peut être trouvé sur aucune autre machine. Quel est le mécanisme derrière cela? En raison de l'augmentation de la puissance fournie par le Laser 20W, il est capable d'oxyder le métal à divers taux. Il est difficile de croire quand vous le voyez en personne.

La modification de la puissance du laser entraîne l'oxydation du métal à des taux variables, produisant finalement une variété de couleurs. Il est efficace en laiton, en cuivre, en acier inoxydable et en titane en plus de l'aluminium. La seule différence est la gamme de couleurs qui vous sont disponibles (qui dépend du type de métal).

Les lasers avec les sorties 5W et 10W ne sont pas assez puissants pour accomplir cette tâche. Vous aurez besoin du modèle 20W si vous souhaitez créer des gravures vives sur le métal.

Prix ​​Laser plus long Ray 5, disponible en 5W, 10W et 20W.

Que dois-je m'attendre à payer pour cela? La distinction n'est pas aussi bizarre qu'elle pourrait initialement sembler être:

• Ray plus long 5W: 299,99 $
• Ray plus long 10W: 449,99 $
• Ray plus long 20W: 899,99 $

Ceux-ci sont actuellement en réduction. Il est donc grand temps de faire un achat.

Quel matériau différent peut coupée ou gravure de puissance laser?

La coupe à l'aide d'un laser peut être effectuée sur une grande variété de matériaux, y compris, mais sans s'y limiter, le bois, le papier, les plastiques, le verre, le cuir, la mousse, les textiles et les métaux. En sélectionnant les paramètres les plus adaptés au laser, on peut s'assurer que les coupes produites sont de haute qualité et ont une finition de surface lisse. D'un autre côté, il n'est pas suggéré d'utiliser un coupe-laser pour couper certains matériaux, tels que le vinyle ou l'ABS.

Pour produire la coupe souhaitée, un coupe-laser fonctionne en concentrant un faisceau laser à haute énergie à la surface de la substance qu'il coupe. Cela fait brûler et s'évaporer le matériau.

Lorsqu'il est travaillé par un laser, chaque matériau présente ses propres caractéristiques uniques et nécessite une configuration unique des différents paramètres laser pour obtenir une coupe propre avec un haut niveau de finition de surface.

En dehors de cela, la capacité d'un laser à couper le matériau est déterminée par le type de laser qui est employé.

En général, la coupe laser fonctionne mieux avec des matériaux naturels comme le bois, le papier, le cuir et les métaux, entre autres, car ces matériaux ne produisent pas ou seulement une quantité limitée de sous-produits potentiellement dangereux.

Final à emporter

Le meilleur résultat possible sera atteint avec une puissance laser qui est spécifiquement adaptée au matériel constituant. Par exemple, le papier de gravure utilise beaucoup moins de puissance que le bois de gravure en moyenne. Une quantité minimale de puissance est nécessaire pour réaliser une gravure qui est uniformément homogène en acrylique et n'est pas très profonde. De plus, avoir une puissance plus élevée permet un travail plus rapide lors du traitement des matériaux de gravure.

Le logiciel permet un contrôle simple de la puissance de sortie du laser. Néanmoins, le matériel a un rôle dans la détermination de la puissance maximale. Les critères suivants doivent être remplis: vous pouvez traiter une grande variété de matériaux avec une machine laser qui a une puissance laser élevée, qui vous offre une grande liberté.