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The Hotend is the part of an FDM 3D printer that deals with the melting and deposition of molten plastic material. A Hotend consists of a Nozzle that deals with depositing the molten material, a Heatblock that deals with the melting of the material and a Heatbreak that keeps the hot zone separate from the cold zone of the Hotend. The Heatbreak can be equipped with a heat sink, which in turn is equipped with a fan.

When assembling a Hotend, care must be taken to ensure that the PTFE tube is in beating with the Nozzle. This implies that the PTFE tube is inserted inside the Heatbreak, then the filament flows inside the PTFE tube and reaches the Nozzle directly, without intermediate zones; therefore, it is essential that the PTFE is tightly tightened and joined to the Nozzle, so that the filament flows forcibly through the exit hole of the Nozzle. In the event that there is even a slight gap between PTFE and Nozzle, then leakages of molten filament from the top edge of the Heatblock can occur, causing fillings and damage to both the print and the printer.

In addition, the PTFE tube, in the part in contact with Nozzle and Heatblock, tends to reach the same melting temperature set for the filament, however this is not a problem as PTFE supports temperatures up to 300C very well before melting, well beyond the normal printing temperatures of PLA, PETG and ABS. On the other hand, the higher the printing temperature, the greater the amount of heat that the Heatbreak must dissipate; in fact, when the heat is not dissipated properly, it tends to rise inside the PTFE causing the filament to melt in areas far from the nozzle, resulting in obstructions that prevent the filament from passing. In addition, the PTFE tube inside the Heatbreak also begins to lose its characteristics, thus causing obstructions. For this reason, it is necessary to accompany the Heatbreak with a heatsink with fan, in this way the passage of heat is quickly interrupted.

To solve these two problems, you can switch to a Hotend like the Hotend Trianglelab TCHC TR6 Model B, which is a Hotend with Bi-Metal thin wall Heatbreak; in this way the PTFE tube is not in contact with the hot Nozzle, but stops high in the Heatsink, where the temperature is cold. Therefore, the filament passes from PTFE to Bi-Metal thin wall Heatbreak when it is still solid, and so leakages of molten material cannot occur. In addition, the Bi-Metal thin wall Heatbreak is welded inside the Nozzle already factory, and therefore it is not possible for losses of molten material between the Bi-Metal thin wall Heatbreak and the Nozzle.

With this type of Hotend it is therefore possible to definitively solve two problems that afflict users of a 3D printer, namely the leakage of molten material between PTFE and Nozzle, and the deformation of the PTFE tube due to the high temperatures reached during the printing of materials such as PETG / ABS / NYLON.

The Hotend Trianglelab TCHC TR6 Model B is the same size as the Hotend MK8 of the Longer FDM 3D printers, so the installation is very user friendly and plug & play. The new Hotend fits both the Longer Classic Printhead and the new Longer Dual Blower, although the Longer Dual Blower is recommended as it provides greater heat dissipation of the Heatsink, as it has a much larger fan than normal. For installation, simply remove the print head cover and the fans, then just unscrew the old Hotend MK8 and screw the new Hotend TCHC TR6 Model B. Instead, as regards the connection of the cables, simply connect the two white cables of the heating resistor to the HEATER port on the mainboard, instead or two black cables of the temperature sensor must be connected to the TH port of the mainboard. The most skilled and experienced users can simply cut the cables of the old Hotend and solder them to the cables of the new Hotend.

Once the assembly and calibration procedures have been completed, you can immediately proceed with printing. You may need to reduce the retraction values inside the slicer and adjust small settings, however 3D printing will be much easier and more enjoyable thanks to this anti-leakage and PTFE-free Hotend in the hot zone.

While using an FDM 3D printer, you may need to replace the hotend. In fact, a little space between the heatbreak and nozzle, or a failure of the heatsink fan, or any other type of problem could cause a clog that prevents normal extrusion during printing, and the only way to repair the fault is to disassemble or replace the hotend.

Replacing the hotend is an easy procedure but one that requires the utmost attention.
In order to proceed with the replacement, follow these steps.

Disassembly

1) Unscrew the screw that holds the thermistor in place and remove the thermistor and temperature sensor

2) Disassemble the Hotend, then unscrew the screw that holds the Heatsink in place and remove the heatsink.

3) Remove the PTFE tube from the heatbreak.

4) In case the end of the PTFE tube is damaged, cut the damaged part, taking care to make a vertical cut at 90 degrees; an inaccurate cut will cause molten material to leak during printing, causing a new clog. In order to proceed to a precise cut, it is recommended to use a "PTFE cutter" available as an accessory for 3D printing or you can proceed to print an STL file by searching on Thingiverse for "PTFE cutter."

Replacement

1) Screw the Heatbreak correctly into the heatblock.

2) Screw the Nozzle into the Heatblock

3) Install the Heatsink

4) Mount the Hotend on the 3D printer

5) Unscrew a little the Nozzle (about half a turn), then insert the PTFE tube until it hits with the nozzle.

6) Insert the thermistor and the temperature sensor into the block, fixing them with the appropriate screw

7) Heat the Hotend up to 200°C, then screw the Nozzle well so that it is tight with the PTFE tube and the heatbreak.

Once you have completed these steps, the new hotend will be ready to use.
The correct assembly ensures good operation and avoids new clogs due to leakage of molten material between the heatbreak and the nozzle.

https://www.longer3d.com/products/lk5-pro-fdm-3d-printer

Ultimo Mont. Più lungo 3D. Rilasciare i nuovi accessori per le stampanti FDM 3D.

Questo Kit Dual Blower. perfettamente adatto per LK4 / LK4 PRO / LK1 / LK1 /LK5 Pro. E compatibile con la stampante 3D U20 / U30 / U30 Pro, migliora la qualità della stampa, ha una forte potenza sull'ugello di raffreddamento per ottenere una superficie migliore e liscia del modello.

E passaggi di installazione, alcuni fan della stampante 3D non lo sapevano. Ora puoi seguire il nostro passo temporale.

https://www.youtube.com/embed/zEA-eM5sfho

Quindi installare il nuovo kit doppio soffiatore per la stampante FDM, è necessario rimuovere prima il vecchio coperchio della ventola a caldo e la lamiera prima, il nuovo kit doppio doppio soffiatore nei fasci di cavalletto, collegare i fili della ventola in ordine, quindi fatto.

PS: Le spine non vengono sostituite come la ventola delle scorte, devono essere commutate esattamente opposte. (L'ex rosso / nero ottiene nuovo blu / giallo e visto versa.)

Se hai intenzione di installare BL Touch, si prega di scaricare Staffa di supporto per il BL Touch. 

Più lungo 3D raccoglie tutto Coupon 3D Stampanti nella pagina di sconto. Se hai bisogno di stampanti 3D o parte di aggiornamento da 3D più lunghi, controllare il collegamento e scoprire il codice coupon di cui hai bisogno.

Post originale:https://global.longer3d.com/longer-new-dual-blower-kit-installation-tutorial/

Quando c'è un problema di EXTURDER dalla stampante 3D LK1 / LK4 / LK4 PRO / LK5 LK4, come risolverlo? Di solito ci sono due ragioni in cui l'estrusore funziona in modo anomalo.

1. Ugello ostruito
In questo caso, è possibile fare riferimento al metodo per pulire l'ugello sopra.
2. Estrusore danneggiato
È possibile scambiare il cavo dell'estrusore con il cavo dell'asse X. Avviare la macchina, controllare l'asse x e lasciare il lavoro dell'estrusore. Osserva se lavorano. Se l'asse X funziona correttamente, il motore dell'estrusore è malfunzionante. In questo momento puoi solo sostituire con un nuovo motore.
Ma se l'asse X non funziona dopo che il cavo viene scambiato. Potrebbe essere un cavo o un fallimento della scheda madre. In questo momento, modificare il cavo dell'asse y all'estrusore e il cavo della porta della scheda madre dell'estrusore all'asse X. Se l'asse X funziona correttamente, il cavo è intatto. Se l'asse X ancora non funziona, significa che la scheda madre e il cavo devono essere sostituiti con uno nuovo.
Puoi fare riferimento al video nel link sottostante.

Guarda il video Ottieni più dettagli:https://youtu.be/XCjrieoyZ1c

Raggiungi questo link per guardare come aggiungere più a lungo Stampanti 3D. nell'ultimo software CURA. E ottieni più conoscenze sulle impostazioni di LK4 Pro CURA più lungo, le impostazioni di CURA LK4 più lunghe e le impostazioni di LK5 Pro CUA.

Aggiungi stampanti 3D più lunghi in CURA 4.8

Per scaricare i file delle risorse di più a lungo >> [ReSurces Files.] <<, con il più recente parametro di stampa, la qualità della stampa sarà perfetta sulla congurazione.