The Hotend is the part of an FDM 3D printer that deals with the melting and deposition of molten plastic material. A Hotend consists of a Nozzle that deals with depositing the molten material, a Heatblock that deals with the melting of the material and a Heatbreak that keeps the hot zone separate from the cold zone of the Hotend. The Heatbreak can be equipped with a heat sink, which in turn is equipped with a fan.

When assembling a Hotend, care must be taken to ensure that the PTFE tube is in beating with the Nozzle. This implies that the PTFE tube is inserted inside the Heatbreak, then the filament flows inside the PTFE tube and reaches the Nozzle directly, without intermediate zones; therefore, it is essential that the PTFE is tightly tightened and joined to the Nozzle, so that the filament flows forcibly through the exit hole of the Nozzle. In the event that there is even a slight gap between PTFE and Nozzle, then leakages of molten filament from the top edge of the Heatblock can occur, causing fillings and damage to both the print and the printer.

In addition, the PTFE tube, in the part in contact with Nozzle and Heatblock, tends to reach the same melting temperature set for the filament, however this is not a problem as PTFE supports temperatures up to 300C very well before melting, well beyond the normal printing temperatures of PLA, PETG and ABS. On the other hand, the higher the printing temperature, the greater the amount of heat that the Heatbreak must dissipate; in fact, when the heat is not dissipated properly, it tends to rise inside the PTFE causing the filament to melt in areas far from the nozzle, resulting in obstructions that prevent the filament from passing. In addition, the PTFE tube inside the Heatbreak also begins to lose its characteristics, thus causing obstructions. For this reason, it is necessary to accompany the Heatbreak with a heatsink with fan, in this way the passage of heat is quickly interrupted.

To solve these two problems, you can switch to a Hotend like the Hotend Trianglelab TCHC TR6 Model B, which is a Hotend with Bi-Metal thin wall Heatbreak; in this way the PTFE tube is not in contact with the hot Nozzle, but stops high in the Heatsink, where the temperature is cold. Therefore, the filament passes from PTFE to Bi-Metal thin wall Heatbreak when it is still solid, and so leakages of molten material cannot occur. In addition, the Bi-Metal thin wall Heatbreak is welded inside the Nozzle already factory, and therefore it is not possible for losses of molten material between the Bi-Metal thin wall Heatbreak and the Nozzle.

With this type of Hotend it is therefore possible to definitively solve two problems that afflict users of a 3D printer, namely the leakage of molten material between PTFE and Nozzle, and the deformation of the PTFE tube due to the high temperatures reached during the printing of materials such as PETG / ABS / NYLON.

The Hotend Trianglelab TCHC TR6 Model B is the same size as the Hotend MK8 of the Longer FDM 3D printers, so the installation is very user friendly and plug & play. The new Hotend fits both the Longer Classic Printhead and the new Longer Dual Blower, although the Longer Dual Blower is recommended as it provides greater heat dissipation of the Heatsink, as it has a much larger fan than normal. For installation, simply remove the print head cover and the fans, then just unscrew the old Hotend MK8 and screw the new Hotend TCHC TR6 Model B. Instead, as regards the connection of the cables, simply connect the two white cables of the heating resistor to the HEATER port on the mainboard, instead or two black cables of the temperature sensor must be connected to the TH port of the mainboard. The most skilled and experienced users can simply cut the cables of the old Hotend and solder them to the cables of the new Hotend.

Once the assembly and calibration procedures have been completed, you can immediately proceed with printing. You may need to reduce the retraction values inside the slicer and adjust small settings, however 3D printing will be much easier and more enjoyable thanks to this anti-leakage and PTFE-free Hotend in the hot zone.

LO 

Some users of Longer FDM printers prefer to use a BL-TOUCH automatic leveling system in order to obtain more precise and higher quality prints, as well as making the printing bed leveling process easier and more immediate.

However, the standard automatic leveling procedure is for the BL-TOUCH sensor to remeasure the plane points before each new print. This procedure takes time, and is often useless, especially in the case of making daily prints, the print bed maintains calibration and the printer is never moved. If these conditions are met, then you can simply recall a previous plan mesh before starting a new print, without the need to create a new one.

If you want to print using the last saved mesh, simply change the START GCODE for BL-TOUCH to the following START GCODE:

-- BL-TOUCH START GCODE --
G21 ; metric values
G90 ; absolute positioning
M82 ; set extruder to absolute mode
M107 ; start with the fan off
; confirm BL-touch safety
M280 P0 S160 ; BL-Touch Alarm release
G4 P100 ; Delay for BL-Touch homing
G28 X0 Y0 ; move X/Y to min endstops
G28 Z0 ; move Z to min endstops
; reconfirm BL-touch safety
M280 P0 S160 ; BL-Touch Alarm realease
G4 P100 ; Delay for BL-Touch
; bed leveling
M420 S1 Z5 ; enable bed leveling
; prepare hot-end
G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder
G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed
G1 X0.1 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to start position

G1 X0.1 Y150.0 Z0.3 F1500.0 E15 ; Draw the first line

G1 X0.4 Y150.0 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to side a little

G1 X0.4 Y20 Z0.3 F1500.0 E30 ; Draw the second line

G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder

G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed

G1 X5 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move over to prevent blob squish
; -- end of BL-TOUCH START GCODE -- 

In this way, printing will start immediately, without mesh the print bed, using the last calibration made. However, sometimes you will need to create a new mesh, especially if the print plate has been moved or if the printer has been moved; in this case, simply create open "Notepad" on your laptop and paste the following GCODE:

; bed leveling
G28 X0 Y0 ; move X/Y to min endstops
G28 Z0 ; move Z to min endstops
G29; Auto leveling
M500 ; save data of G29 and M420
M420 S1 ; enable bed leveling

For last, save the file as levelling.gcode (be careful, do not save as .txt) and copy the GCODE you just created into the microSD of your printer. Whenever it will be necessary to calibrate the printing plate, simply start the GCODE from the printer display, like any other print file, and wait for the measurement to complete.

Longer LK4PRO & LK5PRO are two FDM Printers capable of producing high quality 3D prints. However, you can increase the ease and quality of printing by installing a BL-TOUCH or 3D-TOUCH compatible automatic leveling sensor.

Preparation

• Download and install the Pronterface software on your laptop:
  >>pronterface-windows<<
• Download and 3D print the bracket for BL-TOUCH
  a. >>Bracket for Classic PrintHead<<
  b. >>Bracket for DualBlower<<
• Download and install on your printer the update firmware compatible with BL-TOUCH (check the firmware update manual if you need):
  >>For LK4 PRO Classic PrintHead<<
  >>For LK5 PRO Classic PrintHead<<
  >>For LK4 PRO DualBlower<<
  >>For LK5 PRO DualBlower<<
  
  
• Prepare a USB cable, using a piece of insulating tape, as shown in the figure:

Wiring

1. Switch-off the printer
2. Find the position of motherboard, then screw down the mainboard cover
3. Unplug the Z-MIN wire (2 pin) from the mainboard
4. Connect the sensor's cables to the motherboard, as the picture showing below

5. Screw up the mainboard cover
6. Remove the Z endstop switch, as picture showing below

7. Screwdown left 2 screws of PrintHead module and mount the BL-TOUCH as picture showing below (follow the same step if you have DualBlower)

Configuration

• Confirm BL-TOUCH wiring and mounting is complete
• Power ON the printer
• Connect PC and printer with the modified USB-cable
• Open Pronterface software, select serial port (115200 baudrate) and connect it to the printer

Adjusting Z-Offset

1. Clean up bed and nozzle, and ensure no materials stick on 
2. Send M851 Z0 to reset Z offset value  
3. Send G28 to homing XYZ axis
4. Send G1 F60 Z0 to lower Z axis to the software origin 
5. Send M211 S0 to inactivate software endstop function
6. Place a sheet of paper (0.10mm approximately) on the bed and use Pronterface to lower the nozzle 0.1mm by 0.1mm until you feel a friction between the nozzle and the sheet of paper (the paper is not to be jammed but not too free either). Then remove the sheet
7. Send M114 to get current Z height value (usually negative) and take note of it. This is the z-offset value we need
8. Send M851 Z-x.x to set z-offset (x.x is the value of previous value; for example, if previous value is -1.2, then send M851 Z-1.2)
9. Send M500 to save current settings
10. Send M211 S1 to re-activate software endstop function 
11. Send G28 to homing XYZ axis
12. Send G1 F60 Z0 to test if Z axis could back to the actual Z origin by checking the clearance between bed and nozzle if is about 0.1 mm (thickness of a sheet of paper). If not, please repeat steps from 1 to 11.

START GCODE replacement

Inside the Slicer software (Cura, Slic3r, Simplify3D), replace the original START GCODE with the following START GCODE for BL-TOUCH.

-- BL-TOUCH START GCODE --
G21 ; metric values
G90 ; absolute positioning
M82 ; set extruder to absolute mode
M107 ; start with the fan off
; confirm BL-touch safety
M280 P0 S160 ; BL-Touch Alarm release
G4 P100 ; Delay for BL-Touch homing
G28 X0 Y0 ; move X/Y to min endstops
G28 Z0 ; move Z to min endstops
; reconfirm BL-touch safety
M280 P0 S160 ; BL-Touch Alarm realease
G4 P100 ; Delay for BL-Touch
; bed leveling
G29; Auto leveling
M420 Z5 ; set LEVELING_FADE_HEIGHT
M500 ; save data of G29 and M420
M420 S1 ; enable bed leveling
; prepare hot-end
G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder
G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed
G1 X0.1 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to start position

G1 X0.1 Y150.0 Z0.3 F1500.0 E15 ; Draw the first line

G1 X0.4 Y150.0 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to side a little

G1 X0.4 Y20 Z0.3 F1500.0 E30 ; Draw the second line

G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder

G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed

G1 X5 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move over to prevent blob squish
; -- end of BL-TOUCH START GCODE -- 

Longer Ray5 10W has a laser module capable of engraving and cutting multiple types of materials. However, depending on the type of work that is carried out, it is possible that a fair amount of smoke is produced, which can inevitably settle on the lens of the laser module and therefore blur it. Once the lens of the laser module is dirty or clouded, the laser beam can no longer pass through it and therefore the emission of the laser module is drastically reduced. As a consequence, more and more power will be needed to engrave the same materials already engraved previously, until it will be practically impossible to engrave any type of material even setting 100% power. This problem occurs most when an air assist system is not used; In fact, an Air Assist system allows you to create air pressure in the vicinity of the lens, thus preventing smoke and dust from settling easily on the lens.

In order to solve this problem, it is necessary to proceed to cleaning the lens of the laser module; Once the lens is cleaned, the laser beam can pass through it without suffering losses and therefore the materials will be engraved or cut again to perfection.

To proceed with the cleaning of the lens of the laser module of Longer Ray5 10W it is necessary first to completely disassemble the laser module, as shown in the figure:

The laser module of the Longer Ray5 10W has a factory-installed protective lens, which can be unscrewed and cleaned separately from the laser module. This lens is a simple protective glass, and has no focusing function. After removing the protective lens, you can proceed to clean the lens with the use of a cotton swab soaked in alcohol. Be careful to prevent alcohol from entering the inside of the lens.

Use one or more cotton swabs soaked in alcohol, until the lens is completely clean and free of dirt; at this point, therefore, you can proceed to screw it to the laser module and reassemble the laser module of Longer Ray5 10W. At the end of the cleaning procedure, you can proceed to engrave a sample file contained in the microSD card of Longer Ray5 10W, so you can evaluate the total restoration of the functionality of the laser module.

Longer Ray5 5W has a laser module capable of engraving and cutting multiple types of materials. However, depending on the type of work that is carried out, it is possible that a fair amount of smoke is produced, which can inevitably settle on the lens of the laser module and therefore blur it. Once the lens of the laser module is dirty or foggy, the laser beam can no longer pass through it and therefore the emission of the laser module is drastically reduced. As a consequence, more and more power will be needed to engrave the same materials already engraved previously, until it will be practically impossible to engrave any type of material even setting 100% power.

In order to solve this problem, it is necessary to proceed to cleaning the lens of the laser module; Once the lens is cleaned, the laser beam can pass through it without suffering losses and therefore the materials will be engraved or cut again to perfection.

To proceed with the cleaning of the lens of the laser module of Longer Ray5 5W it is necessary to first completely disassemble the laser module, as shown in the figure:

The laser module of the Longer Ray5 5W has a factory calibrated lens, so be careful not to unscrew or screw on the lens. Otherwise, the focus will be lost irreparably. Once the lens is accessible, with one hand you have to hold the whole laser module upside down, while with the other you can proceed to clean the lens with the use of a cotton swab soaked in alcohol. Be careful to prevent alcohol from entering the laser module.

Use one or more cotton swabs soaked in alcohol, until the lens is completely clean and free of dirt; at this point, therefore, you can proceed to reassemble the laser module of Longer Ray5 5W. At the end of the cleaning procedure, you can proceed to engrave a sample file contained in the microSD card of Longer Ray5 5W, so you can evaluate the total restoration of the functionality of the laser module.

Longer Ray5 allows you to engrave and cut multiple types of materials. In particular, many users of Longer Ray5 prefer to create a custom text and then engrave or cut it on wood panels or similar material. Engraving a text using the laser beam is not a big problem, as it is sufficient to set the right parameters for the type of material chosen and the result will be excellent. However, if you want to cut (e.g. on wood or paper) your custom text, then setting the right parameters may not be enough.

In fact, depending on the type of text chosen, it may be necessary to make manual changes to the text, so that the cut can take place correctly. Analyzing the issue in detail, assuming you want to laser cut the word "NICE" then there is no problem; however, if the word is "HELLO" then it should be noted that the letter "O" consists of a closed surface, which when cut will fall away from the material and thus change the layout of the letter "O".

Specifically, this problem occurs with all letters that contain a closed surface within them, such as the letters "A – B – D – O – P – Q – R".

Using Lightburn software you can solve this problem really easily and quickly. In detail, first you proceed with the creation of your own personalized text within Lightburn. After entering the text, you will visually check for any letters that have problems when cutting.

In the example given here, there are some letters that cannot be cut correctly, and therefore need to be corrected first. The solution to this problem lies in eliminating the closed surface inside the letter: to do this, just create a "bridge" that connects this closed surface with the rest of the letter.

In this way, after making the cut, this closed surface will remain attached to the cut panel, and therefore the layout of the letter will not be changed.

In particular, you must manually create a small rectangle, which must be pasted inside each problematic letter in order to create a bridge between the closed surface of the letter and the letter itself, as shown in the example below. After that, you have to make a Bolean Subtraction between the letter and the rectangle.

We proceed to insert a rectangle for each letter that needs to be corrected, then we proceed with the subtraction (the procedure must be repeated for each letter, one letter at a time). Finally, the end result will look like this:

At this point, you can make a cutting preview or proceed with the export of the Gcode on the microSD of Longer Ray5 and perform the cut (always remembering to set the correct parameters first to be able to cut the type of material chosen).

This technique can also be applied when using different text layouts, such as italic text or number format, so that you always eliminate any closed surfaces that prevent you from making a correct laser cut.

Longer Ray5 allows you to engrave and cut multiple types of materials. In particular, many users of Longer Ray5 prefer to carry out engraving and cutting work at the same time, especially when it comes to working with wood panels; however, engraving and cutting do not necessarily have to be two distinct processes, as using Lightburn you can perform both machining operations in one operation.

In particular, after opening an image in Lightburn, proceed to set the engraving parameters in the window on the right of the screen. I know that the engraving parameters are those of Model Image.

After setting the engraving parameters, right-click with mouse on the imported image, then select Trace Image.

In the screen that opens, define the quality of the cutting perimeter by increasing or decreasing the Threshold value, then confirm by pressing OK.

The image will be superimposed by a perimeter, as set in the previous screen, and at the same time in the window on the right of the screen will appear a new entry relating to the cut to be made, indicated with Model Line. For Model Line, set image cropping parameters, such as speed, power, and number of passes.

At the end, press Save Gcode to export the working file to the microSD of Longer Ray5, then proceed to start working on Longer Ray5. Alternatively, before exporting the GCode, you can check the simulation of the engraving and cutting process by pressing Preview.

In this way, Longer Ray5 will engrave the selected image, after which it will cut the image following the perimeter set above.

Above is the introduction of the first layer calibration, hope it can help you. If you still have any questions during the operation, please visit our Support Page. Our knowledgeable staff is happy to assist you and your team with any questions.

Want to learn more about RAY5 Laser Engraver? Check out the video below.

https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLLz1z_0pXsW0rjYbC2V_upO1YlU4HeuAg

Step into a world of precision craftsmanship with LONGER RAY5 Series. These high-accuracy laser engraver and cutter redefine what's possible, effortlessly mastering materials with unparalleled precision and ease. Whether you seek to infuse your home with personalized charm or elevate your professional projects, these versatile machines seamlessly adapt to your needs. Their compact design make them excellent choice for home laser engravers and cutters, adding a touch of sophistication to your creative space. Meanwhile, their precision engineering make them equally at home in the professional arena, where they serve as the quintessential desktop laser cutter, providing industrial-grade precision right at your fingertips. Explore limitless possibilities and unlock your creativity with Longer RAY5 Series.

Longer Ray5 5W and Longer Ray5 10W allow you to engrave and cut different types of materials, quickly and easily. However, for each type of processing it is necessary to set different parameters regarding power and speed, precisely because each type of material reacts differently to the laser beam.

To have a reference, about what power and speed to adopt for each type of material, there is a fairly complete table accurately reporting the best parameters to use.

However, the table can only be understood as a general reference; in fact, assuming you want to cut the BassWood with Longer Ray5 10W, the recommended parameter is 100% Power & 350 mm/min Speed, but there are various types of BassWood, and each one reacts differently during cutting, so it is not said that these parameters are perfect for each type of BassWood, since some BassWood could be burned instead of simply cut or not cut at all.

In order to obtain the correct parameters for the type of BassWood you intend to cut, Lightburn has a powerful Material Test tool, which allows you to quickly determine the most specific and correct parameters. From the Lightburn home screen, select Laser Tools – Material Test, this screen will open:

First, set the Count value to 5 for Vertical and Count to 4 for Horizontal; Also, set Height and Width to 5.00 mm.

Since the recommended parameters for cutting the BassWood are 100% Power & 350 mm/min Speed, you can set a range between 100 and 500 mm/min for Speed and a range between 50% and 80% for Power (so as to avoid stressing the laser with 100% power).

Next, proceed with Edit Text Setting:

This screen is used to engrave the labels of the test table. Since it is an engraving, set 3000 mm/min Speed and 50% Power; Also, set Mode Fill.
Confirm by pressing OK.

At this point, proceed with Edit Material Settings:

In this screen you can set the method of processing the material; since it is a matter of cutting, select Mode Line, and possibly set Number of Passes to 1 or more.
Confirm by pressing OK.

Once back on the main screen, press Save Gcode to export the test file, copy it to the microSD and start testing on Longer Ray5.

When Ray5 has completed the job, reviewing the table will help you determine which parameters are best to set.

Similarly, if you want to proceed with an engraving test instead of cutting, open the Material Test screen. Since the recommended parameters for engraving the BassWood are 35% Power & 3000 mm/min Speed, set the testing range as shown in the image below:

On the Edit Material Settings screen, since this is an engraving, select Mode Fill:

Once back on the main screen, press Save Gcode to export the test file, copy it to the microSD and start testing on Longer Ray5.

When Ray5 has completed the job, reviewing the table will help you determine which parameters are best to set.

Note that, before exporting the Gcode, both for a cut test and for an engraving test, you can always select Preview, which allows you to see in advance how the final result will look.

Above is the introduction of parameter settings and material testing , hope it can help you. If you still have any questions during the operation, please visit our Support Page. Our knowledgeable staff is happy to assist you and your team with any questions.

The Longer Laser RAY5 Series is capable of engraving a wide range of materials including plywood, basswood, hardwood, pinewood, acrylic, kraft paper, stainless steel, aluminum alloy, ceramics, and more. Additionally, the Longer RAY5 can cut materials such as basswood, acrylic, bamboo, kraft paper, and more.

With its powerful engraving and cutting capabilities, it transcends boundaries to become the best engraving machine and the best laser cutter for a variety of materials. Seamlessly transition from a wood laser cutter to a metal laser engraver, or even become a master jewelry engraver. Discover boundless unlimited potential with the Longer Laser RAY5 Series.

Visible light and laser beam have in common the same nature, as both are composed of photons, however the difference between them is in the fact that visible light has an optically isotropic propagation (that is, it propagates identically in all directions) while in the laser all the energy is concentrated within a single beam of very small section. Therefore, when the laser hits matter, it is instantly able to radiate a great power in a very small area, causing a sudden and rapid increase in temperature that alters the state of matter.

Laser engraving machines, such as Longer Ray5, are able to emit a laser beam that instantly transforms the state of matter by combustion, and the contrast between the laser-subjected surface and the surrounding surface creates the visual effect commonly called Laser Engraving. However, the energy hitting a single point is not limited to that point, but the heat generated is also transmitted to the areas surrounding the point causing the typical burning effect of laser processing.

In order to avoid or reduce this effect, an Air Assist mechanism can be used, which consists of a compressor capable of continuously blowing pressurized air directly onto the area subjected to the laser. In this way, the heat exchanged between the laser area and the surrounding area is mitigated by the fresh air of the Air Assist compressor, thus avoiding the burnt effect around the laser engraving. In addition, the air blown on the engraving zone cancels the heat exchange with the surrounding areas, but does not damage the engraving ability of the laser beam. A simple example to understand this phenomenon can be this: if on a summer day with the sun high in the sky you go to the sea, if there is wind then you feel cool while if there is no wind then you feel hot, but in both cases the sun causes burns to the skin in the same way.

Longer Ray5 10W Air Assist installation

Longer Ray5 10W has an official Air Assist kit that consists of two parts, the nozzle kit and the air compressor, available at the following link: https://www.longer3d.com/products/air-assist-set .

Installing the Longer Air Assist on 10W Laser module is really easy, just follow the steps below:

• Install the metal nozzle on the laser module

• Connect a rubber hose between the metal nozzle and the pressure regulator, and connect another part of the rubber hose to the regulator inlet

• Connect the inlet pipe of the regulator to the outlet of the air compressor

• Finally, install the laser module on the Ray5, activate the compressor switch and start an engraving from the Longer Ray5 display

Longer Ray5 5W Air Assist installation

To proceed with the installation of the Air Assist kit on the Longer Ray5 5W, it is necessary to purchase, as for the 10W version, the kit consisting of the nozzle kit and the air compressor, available at the following link: https://www.longer3d.com/products/air-assist-set . However, the metal nozzle included inside the kit is compatible with 10W module only, therefore it is necessary to have a 3D printer to print with PLA or PETG the following nozzle: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5585296 .

Installing the Longer Air Assist on 5W Laser module is really easy, just follow the same steps as the installing method for 10W Laser module but install the 3D printed nozzle on the laser module instead of the metal nozzle. After that, as mentioned, just follow the same steps as shown for installation on the 10W module.

Conclusions

The use of Air Assist not only increases the engraving quality, but can also increase the laser's cutting capacity thanks to the possibility of removing smoke and combustion debris thanks to the continuous breath of air; without Air Assist, these would end up settling on the laser lens, hindering the output laser beam of the module. Whether for hobbyist or professional use, Longer Air Assist is absolutely recommended if you want to achieve the maximum performance offered by Longer Ray5 10W and Longer Ray5 5W.

https://www.longer3d.com/collections/laser-engraver

A Honeycomb Working Table is a working base used in laser cutting machines that has a surface composed of a structure similar to that of a honeycomb, usually made of aluminum or steel. Thanks to the presence of regular holes, this surface allows the laser to pass through the processing and thus cut the material more easily, also leaving gaps to escape the gases and particles produced during the cutting process.

Using an aluminum worktop such as the Longer Honeycomb Working Table has numerous advantages over using a flat worktop or other types of work surfaces. First of all, the honeycomb allows to minimize the contact between the material to be cut and the work surface, reducing the risk of damage to the material itself; In addition, the honeycomb structure provides solid support to the material being processed, preventing the surface of the material from bending or deforming during laser cutting.

Another important feature of Longer Honeycomb Working Table is that it helps to maintain a good circulation of gases that can collect in the work area during the cutting process, preventing burnt particles and combustion slag from sticking to the surface of the wood, improving the quality of the cut and reducing the risk of damage to the wood itself. In addition, the honeycomb structure can also reduce the thermal effect during laser cutting: in fact, when the laser hits the material, the heat produced can cause deformation, ripples or burns of the material, however the honeycomb can reduce the thermal effect because it allows heat to be dissipated evenly around the material, cooling it much faster than a closed base. However, it requires regular cleaning to ensure that the holes do not become clogged and that gas circulation is optimal. Finally, being totally open, Longer Honeycomb Working Table can be equipped with a suction system under it, in order to remove the combustion gases created by the laser during cutting, preventing smoke and particles from being dispersed into the environment and thus maintaining a clean and safe work area for the operator.

The Longer Honeycomb Working Table can be used when engraving or cutting a wide range of materials, including glass, wood, paper, textiles and metals, as its aluminum structure does not react with these materials. Moreover, thanks to its perfectly leveled and flat surface, the engravings are also improved because the laser beam manages to maintain an equidistance at all points of the material to be engraved.

If you do not use the Longer Honeycomb Working Table, several negative effects can occur in the laser cutting process. First, direct contact between the material to be cut and the surface of the worktable can increase the risk of damage to the material in the part in contact with the worktop due to the lack of heat dissipation. Secondly, burnt particles and slag produced during the cutting process can accumulate on the work surface, damaging it and causing permanent stains. For these reasons it is always recommended to use Longer Honeycomb Working Table which acts as a support for the workpiece and as a work surface, avoiding that the laser beam comes into contact with your table. In addition, Longer Honeycomb can be replaced relatively easily when it becomes too ruined by the many processes: this is undoubtedly much more convenient than having to change tables.

For these reasons, Longer Honeycomb Working Table is one of the best accessories for those who use a laser engraving and cutting machine, as it improves the quality of laser cutting, reduces damage to the cut material and increases the overall efficiency of the machining process.

https://www.longer3d.com/collections/laser-engraver-accessories