Academy

Material Testing for Longer Ray5 10W & 5W - LONGER
Material Testing for Longer Ray5 10W & 5W

Longer Ray5 5W and Longer Ray5 10W allow you to engrave and cut different types of materials, quickly and easily. However, for each type of processing it is necessary to set different parameters regarding power and speed, precisely because each type of material reacts differently to the laser beam.

To have a reference about what power and speed to adopt for each type of material, there is a fairly complete table accurately reporting the best parameters to use.

about what power and speed to adopt for each type of material

However, the table can only be understood as a general reference; in fact, assuming you want to cut the basswood with Longer Ray5 10W, the recommended parameter is 100% power & 350 mm/min speed, but there are various types of basswood, and each one reacts differently during cutting, so it is not said that these parameters are perfect for each type of basswood, since some basswood could be burned instead of simply cut or not cut at all.

In order to obtain the correct parameters for the type of basswood you intend to cut, Lightburn has a powerful material test tool, which allows you to quickly determine the most specific and correct parameters. From the Lightburn home screen, select Laser Tools – Material Test; this screen will open:

select Laser Tools – Material Test

First, set the Count value to 5 for Vertical and Count to 4 for Horizontal; Also, set Height and Width to 5.00 mm.

Since the recommended parameters for cutting the basswood are 100% power & 350 mm/min speed, you can set a range between 100 and 500 mm/min for speed and a range between 50% and 80% for power (so as to avoid stressing the laser with 100% power).

Next, proceed with Edit Text Setting:

Edit Text Setting

This screen is used to engrave the labels of the test table. Since it is an engraving, set 3000 mm/min speed and 50% Power; Also, set Mode Fill.
Confirm by pressing OK.

At this point, proceed with Edit Material Settings:

Edit Material Settings

In this screen you can set the method of processing the material; since it is a matter of cutting, select Mode Line, and possibly set Number of Passes to 1 or more.
Confirm by pressing OK.

Once back on the main screen, press Save Gcode to export the test file, copy it to the microSD, and start testing on Longer Ray5.

When Ray5 has completed the job, reviewing the table will help you determine which parameters are best to set.

 

Similarly, if you want to proceed with an engraving test instead of cutting, open the Material Test screen. Since the recommended parameters for engraving the basswood are 35% Power & 3000 mm/min speed, set the testing range as shown in the image below:

set the testing range

On the Edit Material Settings screen, since this is an engraving, select Mode Fill:

the Edit Material Settings screen select Mode Fill

Once back on the main screen, press Save Gcode to export the test file, copy it to the microSD and start testing on Longer Ray5.

When Ray5 has completed the job, reviewing the table will help you determine which parameters are best to set.

 

Note that, before exporting the Gcode, both for a cut test and for an engraving test, you can always select Preview, which allows you to see in advance how the final result will look.

 

Lightburn Preview

Above is the introduction of parameter settings and material testing , hope it can help you. If you still have any questions during the operation, please visit our Support Page. Our knowledgeable staff is happy to assist you and your team with any questions.

 

The Longer Laser RAY5 Series is capable of engraving a wide range of materials, including plywood, basswood, hardwood, pinewood, acrylic, kraft paper, stainless steel, aluminum alloy, ceramics, and more. Additionally, the Longer RAY5 can cut materials such as basswood, acrylic, bamboo, kraft paper, and more.

 

With its powerful engraving and cutting capabilities, it transcends boundaries to become the best engraving machine and the best laser cutter for a variety of materials. Seamlessly transition from a wood laser cutter to a metal laser engraver, or even become a master jewelry engraver. Discover boundless, unlimited potential with the Longer Laser RAY5 Series.

 


 

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By Academy | May 30, 2023
Air Assist Kit installation for Longer Ray5 10W & 5W - LONGER
Air Assist Kit installation for Longer Ray5 10W & 5W

Visible light and laser beam have in common the same nature, as both are composed of photons, however the difference between them is in the fact that visible light has an optically isotropic propagation (that is, it propagates identically in all directions) while in the laser all the energy is concentrated within a single beam of very small section. Therefore, when the laser hits matter, it is instantly able to radiate a great power in a very small area, causing a sudden and rapid increase in temperature that alters the state of matter.

Laser engraving machines, such as Longer Ray5, are able to emit a laser beam that instantly transforms the state of matter by combustion, and the contrast between the laser-subjected surface and the surrounding surface creates the visual effect commonly called Laser Engraving. However, the energy hitting a single point is not limited to that point, but the heat generated is also transmitted to the areas surrounding the point, causing the typical burning effect of laser processing.

In order to avoid or reduce this effect, an air assist mechanism can be used, which consists of a compressor capable of continuously blowing pressurized air directly onto the area subjected to the laser. In this way, the heat exchanged between the laser area and the surrounding area is mitigated by the fresh air of the Air Assist compressor, thus avoiding the burnt effect around the laser engraving. In addition, the air blown on the engraving zone cancels the heat exchange with the surrounding areas but does not damage the engraving ability of the laser beam. A simple example to understand this phenomenon can be this: if on a summer day with the sun high in the sky you go to the sea, if there is wind, then you feel cool, while if there is no wind, then you feel hot, but in both cases the sun causes burns to the skin in the same way.

 

Longer Ray5 10W Air Assist installation

The longer Ray5 10W has an official Air Assist kit that consists of two parts, the nozzle kit and the air compressor, available at the following link: https://www.longer3d.com/products/air-assist-set .

Installing the Longer Air Assist on the 10W laser module is really easy; just follow the steps below:

  • First, proceed to disassemble the laser module from the rest of the machine

 

  • Install the metal nozzle on the laser module

 

  • Connect a rubber hose between the metal nozzle and the pressure regulator, and connect another part of the rubber hose to the regulator inlet

 

  • Connect the inlet pipe of the regulator to the outlet of the air compressor

 

    • Finally, install the laser module on the Ray5, activate the compressor switch and start an engraving from the Longer Ray5 display

 

 

Longer Ray5 5W Air Assist installation

To proceed with the installation of the Air Assist kit on the Longer Ray5 5W, it is necessary to purchase, as for the 10W version, the kit consisting of the nozzle kit and the air compressor, available at the following link: https://www.longer3d.com/products/air-assist-set . However, the metal nozzle included inside the kit is compatible with 10W module only; therefore, it is necessary to have a 3D printer to print with PLA or PETG the following nozzle:https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5585296 .

 

Installing the Longer Air Assist on the 5W laser module is really easy; just follow the same steps as the installing method for the 10W laser module, but install the 3D-printed nozzle on the laser module instead of the metal nozzle. After that, as mentioned, just follow the same steps as shown for installation on the 10W module.

 

Conclusions

The use of air assist not only increases the engraving quality but can also increase the laser's cutting capacity thanks to the possibility of removing smoke and combustion debris thanks to the continuous breath of air; without air assist, these would end up settling on the laser lens, hindering the output laser beam of the module. Whether for hobbyist or professional use, Longer Air Assist is absolutely recommended if you want to achieve the maximum performance offered by Longer Ray5 10W and Longer Ray5 5W.

https://www.longer3d.com/collections/laser-engraver

By Academy | May 9, 2023
Longer Honeycomb Working Table - LONGER
Longer Honeycomb Working Table

A Honeycomb Working Table is a working base used in laser cutting machines that has a surface composed of a structure similar to that of a honeycomb, usually made of aluminum or steel. Thanks to the presence of regular holes, this surface allows the laser to pass through the processing and thus cut the material more easily, also leaving gaps to escape the gases and particles produced during the cutting process.

Using an aluminum worktop such as the Longer Honeycomb Working Table has numerous advantages over using a flat worktop or other types of work surfaces. First of all, the honeycomb allows to minimize the contact between the material to be cut and the work surface, reducing the risk of damage to the material itself; In addition, the honeycomb structure provides solid support to the material being processed, preventing the surface of the material from bending or deforming during laser cutting.

Another important feature of Longer Honeycomb Working Table is that it helps to maintain a good circulation of gases that can collect in the work area during the cutting process, preventing burnt particles and combustion slag from sticking to the surface of the wood, improving the quality of the cut and reducing the risk of damage to the wood itself. In addition, the honeycomb structure can also reduce the thermal effect during laser cutting: in fact, when the laser hits the material, the heat produced can cause deformation, ripples or burns of the material, however the honeycomb can reduce the thermal effect because it allows heat to be dissipated evenly around the material, cooling it much faster than a closed base. However, it requires regular cleaning to ensure that the holes do not become clogged and that gas circulation is optimal. Finally, being totally open, Longer Honeycomb Working Table can be equipped with a suction system under it, in order to remove the combustion gases created by the laser during cutting, preventing smoke and particles from being dispersed into the environment and thus maintaining a clean and safe work area for the operator.

The Longer Honeycomb Working Table can be used when engraving or cutting a wide range of materials, including glass, wood, paper, textiles and metals, as its aluminum structure does not react with these materials. Moreover, thanks to its perfectly leveled and flat surface, the engravings are also improved because the laser beam manages to maintain an equidistance at all points of the material to be engraved.

If you do not use the Longer Honeycomb Working Table, several negative effects can occur in the laser cutting process. First, direct contact between the material to be cut and the surface of the worktable can increase the risk of damage to the material in the part in contact with the worktop due to the lack of heat dissipation. Secondly, burnt particles and slag produced during the cutting process can accumulate on the work surface, damaging it and causing permanent stains. For these reasons it is always recommended to use Longer Honeycomb Working Table which acts as a support for the workpiece and as a work surface, avoiding that the laser beam comes into contact with your table. In addition, Longer Honeycomb can be replaced relatively easily when it becomes too ruined by the many processes: this is undoubtedly much more convenient than having to change tables.

For these reasons, Longer Honeycomb Working Table is one of the best accessories for those who use a laser engraving and cutting machine, as it improves the quality of laser cutting, reduces damage to the cut material and increases the overall efficiency of the machining process.

https://www.longer3d.com/collections/laser-engraver-accessories

By Academy | April 19, 2023
Longer Laser Rotary Roller - LONGER
Longer Laser Rotary Roller

Longer Laser Rotary Roller is a fundamental accessory for all those who carry out laser engraving work, as it is possible to make engravings on curved surfaces with ease, which would be impossible to perform without this accessory.

Everyone who uses a laser engraving machine knows well that in order for the laser to engrave a surface it is necessary that the laser beam is focused. Assuming that, in order for the laser beam to be in focus it is necessary that the distance between the laser module and the surface to be engraved is 50mm, once the right distance has been established it is possible to engrave any point of the surface as the equidistance is respected at every point. However, if the surface to be engraved is not flat but curved, then the equidistance is not respected; in fact, as you can see from the image below, the focus (fixed in point A) is lost as soon as the laser module moves with respect to the focus point.

To solverand this problem it is necessary to use the Longer Laser Rotary Roller, which causes the surface to be engraved (through a rotation) to move instead of the laser module. In this way, each point of the curved surface to be engraved is brought to the focus point of the laser, i.e. the surface to be engraved makes a "rotation". For this technique to work correctly it is necessary that the surface to be engraved is cylindrical in shape, otherwise the problem of focusing would be solved with respect to the Y axis with the Rotary Roller, but it would occur with respect to the X axis.

The installation of Longer Rotary Roller is really easy: just connect it to the Y-axis connector of your Longer Ray5, and in this way the laser module will move to the X axis, but the movement with respect to the Y axis will be applied to the Rotary Roller instead of the Y axis of the laser module. As for the settings, they are almost the same settings used for engraving on a flat surface. In fact, if you want to engrave a 10x10cm image, instead of getting a 10x10cm image on a flat surface you will get a 10x10cm engraving on a curved surface, so the result in terms of size does not change. To better understand this concept, it is similar to when you remove the label from a jar: the label on the jar is curved, when you remove it and place it on a plane it becomes flat, but in both cases the label is always the same and the dimensions do not change.  

In order for the movement steps to be respected, the Rotary Roller must be set differently according to the size of the object on which you intend to make the laser engraving. In detail, about the gear of the roller, you can refer to these dimensions in order to keep the correct steps:

1: Distance between two axes is 5mm, suitable for engraving 6-38mm diameter objects

2: Distance between two axes is 23mm, suitable for engraving 38-70mm diameter objects

3: Distance between two axes is 41mm, suitable for engraving 70-102mm diameter objects

4: Distance between two axes is 59mm, suitable for engraving 102-134mm diameter objects

5: Distance between two axes is 77mm, suitable for engraving 134-166mm diameter objects

6: Distance between two axes is 95mm, suitable for engraving 166-200mm diameter objects

 

Using the Longer Laser Rotary Roller allows you to expand the functionality of your Longer Ray5, as you can easily engrave many everyday objects, such as pens, jars, cylindrical objects and much more.

https://www.longer3d.com/collections/laser-engraver-accessories

By Academy | April 7, 2023
Differences between PETG and PLA in FDM 3D Printing - LONGER
Differences between PETG and PLA in FDM 3D Printing

In general, the choice between PETG and PLA depends on the specific needs of the 3D printing you intend to do. If you want greater impact resistance, flexibility, and chemical resistance, PETG may be your best choice. Instead, if you want a cheap, easy-to-print, and biodegradable material, PLA may be the best choice. In particular, PETG is a very resistant and flexible filament, ideal for printing large-volume objects and resistant to the effects of chemicals such as acids and alkalis; moreover, compared to PLA, PETG is more resistant to heat and less fragile, so it is great for making prints that will be placed outside and exposed to sunlight.

PETG is a copolymer that combines the properties of PET and glycol. The addition of the latter reduces the problems of overheating of PET and, consequently, increases its resistance. For these reasons, PETG is one of the most commonly used filaments and is an excellent choice for printing parts subjected to mechanical stress and heat; moreover, PETG has an almost absent odor during printing, even if it is a material derived from petroleum and therefore not biodegradable.

PLA is a lactic acid polymer and was the second bioplastic marketed and sold on a large scale. It derives from the milling of corn and is to be considered biodegradable, even if it requires precise conditions to trigger the decomposition process. PLA has some advantages over PETG, such as greater ease of printing, greater rigidity, better surface quality, and lower cost, although it fears heat and weathering.

Therefore, summarizing the advantages of PETG over PLA, here is a list of technical characteristics:

  • Impact resistance: PETG is more impact resistant than PLA. This means that PETG is less likely to break during use.
  • Flexibility: PETG is more flexible than PLA, which makes it better for printing parts that require a certain amount of flexibility or need to resist warping.
  • Chemical resistance: PETG has higher chemical resistance than PLA, which makes it more suitable for printing parts that come into contact with chemicals or solvents.
  • Ease of printing: PETG is easier to print than other materials such as ABS and nylon but offers very similar characteristics to these. However, compared to PLA, PETG is more difficult to print.
  • Temperature resistance: PETG has greater temperature resistance than PLA and can withstand higher temperatures without deforming or losing its shape.
  • Weather resistance: PETG is more weather resistant than PLA, which makes it more suitable for printing parts for outdoor use.
  • UV light resistance: PETG has greater resistance to UV light than PLA. This means that PETG is less susceptible to yellowing or degradation caused by exposure to UV light.
  • Dimensional tolerance: PETG has a higher dimensional tolerance than PLA. This means that PETG molded parts can have higher dimensional accuracy than PLA.

In general, PETG is a versatile and durable material that can be used for a wide range of applications. However, like any material, it also has some disadvantages, such as the need to use higher printing temperatures than PLA and a greater propensity to create stringing filaments. In addition, PETG may require more attention in the preparation of the print bed and in the calibration of the printer than PLA; however, if you choose PETG and take all the precautions seen in a previous article, the printing result can be of high quality.

In conclusion, both materials have their advantages and disadvantages, and the choice depends on the specific needs of the project. When choosing between PETG and PLA, it is important to consider the strength, flexibility, chemical resistance, ease of printing, heat resistance, weather resistance, durability, availability, cost, sustainability, color, appearance, and specific applications of the project you want to achieve.

https://www.longer3d.com/products/lk5-pro-fdm-3d-printer

By Academy | March 28, 2023
PETG 3D Printing in FDM - LONGER
PETG 3D Printing in FDM

Longer FDM 3D printers are capable of printing PETG with high quality. This type of material offers many advantages, as it can be printed as easily as PLA but is as durable as ABS.

To 3D print the PETG, you need to make sure that the 3D printer is set up correctly to print the PETG. This includes material selection, nozzle and hotbed temperature, extrusion speed, and other settings related to print quality. In addition, when printing PETG, it is recommended to always keep an eye on the press to make sure that everything goes according to plan and that there are no problems.

The recommended parameters for printing with PETG in 3D may vary depending on the 3D printer, the type of PETG purchased, and the project you want to carry out. However, here are some common printing parameters for PETG:

  • Extrusion temperature: 220°C – 250°C
  • Bed temperature: 70°C – 90°C
  • Print speed: 40 mm/s – 80 mm/s
  • Fan speed: 0% - 30%
  • Retraction distance: 4 mm–8mm
  • Retraction speed: 30 mm/s – 40 mm/s
  • Layer height: 0.2 mm

Keep in mind that these are only basic values, and small adjustments may be necessary to achieve the best results based on your specific needs. In fact, there are a few other factors that could affect printing with PETG:

  • Adhesion to the bed: it may be useful to use an adhesive solution to be affixed to the glass or a latex/PEI top to increase the adhesion of the material to the printing bed.
  • Fan cooling: it is important to keep the fan off or at a minimum to cool the newly extracted material, as cooling too fast can cause warping and weakening of the structure.
  • Extrusion: It is important that the extruder is able to extrude a constant amount of material during printing, so the temperature must be set high enough.
  • Bed leveling: A well-leveled bed can ensure that the model has an even base and that there are no detached parts during printing.
  • Speed: Printing speeds that are too fast can cause warping or adhesion effects. Adjust the print speed to achieve a balance between quality and print time.
  • Temperature: Extrusion temperature can affect material properties, such as flexibility and strength. Make sure the temperature is high enough to ensure good extrusion but not too high to cause other problems.
  • Print bed cleaning: Make sure the print bed is clean and free of dust or other things that could affect material adhesion.

These are just some of the factors that can affect printing with PETG. It is advisable to do some tests to understand which combination of parameters works best for your 3D printer and for your specific project. In addition, it is important to use a quality material and store it correctly, since PETG can be sensitive to changes in temperature and humidity; therefore, it is necessary to store the filament in an airtight container along with a silica bag to maintain the quality of the material. In general, the key to successful printing with PETG is to experiment and optimize printing parameters according to the specific needs of the project. However, once you have learned how to 3D print PETG, this is a material that allows you to create resistant, flexible, and quality objects. For best results, it's important to follow recommendations on printing parameters, such as temperature, speed, and media usage, and pay attention to design and post-processing details.

https://www.longer3d.com/products/lk5-pro-fdm-3d-printer

By Academy | March 28, 2023
FDM 3D Printers – 24V vs 12V - LONGER
FDM 3D Printers – 24V vs 12V

FDM 3D printers on the market usually work at 12V or 24V. The choice is made based on the characteristics of the product, the type of user to whom it is intended, and also the production costs; however, even if the operation of a printer is identical, regardless of the working voltage, there are clear differences depending on whether the operation is based on 12V or 24V.

In physics, it is shown that the electric power (Watt) is the multiplication between the voltage (Volt) and the intensity of electric current (Ampere), i.e. P = V * I ; therefore, with the same power, as the voltage increases, the current decreases (and vice versa). In addition, the charge carriers that make up the electric current generate heat by moving inside the conductors, so the higher the current intensity, the greater the charge carriers, the greater the heat that develops. In fact, for this reason the power lines that transport electricity from one part of the various continents and nations to another operate at high voltage, as this allows the use of cables of lesser thickness (less passage of current) with the same power supplied; then, only locally the transport takes place at domestic voltage (110V / 230V), so as to be compatible with domestic electrical equipment.

 

Based on these premises, it becomes much easier to understand that an FDM 3D printer operating at 24V can have the following advantages:

  • to heat a Hotend with a resistor of 40W are sufficient only 1.67A (against the 3.33A needed at 12V)
  • to heat a Hotbed with a resistor of 180W are sufficient only 7.5A (against the 15A needed at 12V)

This means less heating of the cables and connectors on the mainboard, minimizing the risk of connector fire and overheating of the mainboard's smd components, resulting in irreversible damage.

 

For these reasons, Longer FDM 3D printers operate at 24V so that we can offer all customers the best possible product.

 https://www.longer3d.com/products/lk5-pro-fdm-3d-printer

By Academy | March 28, 2023
Hotend Replacement for Longer FDM 3D Printer - LONGER
Hotend Replacement for Longer FDM 3D Printer

While using an FDM 3D printer, you may need to replace the hotend. In fact, a little space between the heatbreak and nozzle, or a failure of the heatsink fan, or any other type of problem could cause a clog that prevents normal extrusion during printing, and the only way to repair the fault is to disassemble or replace the hotend.

Replacing the hotend is an easy procedure but one that requires the utmost attention.
In order to proceed with the replacement, follow these steps.

Disassembly

1) Unscrew the screw that holds the thermistor in place and remove the thermistor and temperature sensor

Unscrew the screw that holds the thermistor in place and remove the thermistor and temperature sensor

2) Disassemble the Hotend, then unscrew the screw that holds the Heatsink in place and remove the heatsink.

Disassemble the Hotend, then unscrew the screw that holds the Heatsink in place and remove the heatsink.

3) Remove the PTFE tube from the heatbreak.

4) In case the end of the PTFE tube is damaged, cut the damaged part, taking care to make a vertical cut at 90 degrees; an inaccurate cut will cause molten material to leak during printing, causing a new clog. In order to proceed to a precise cut, it is recommended to use a "PTFE cutter" available as an accessory for 3D printing or you can proceed to print an STL file by searching on Thingiverse for "PTFE cutter."

Replacement

1) Screw the Heatbreak correctly into the heatblock.

Screw the Heatbreak correctly into the heatblock.

2) Screw the Nozzle into the Heatblock

3) Install the Heatsink

4) Mount the Hotend on the 3D printer

5) Unscrew a little the Nozzle (about half a turn), then insert the PTFE tube until it hits with the nozzle.

6) Insert the thermistor and the temperature sensor into the block, fixing them with the appropriate screw

7) Heat the Hotend up to 200°C, then screw the Nozzle well so that it is tight with the PTFE tube and the heatbreak.

Heat the Hotend up to 200°C, then screw the Nozzle well so that it is tight with the PTFE tube and the heatbreak

Once you have completed these steps, the new hotend will be ready to use.
The correct assembly ensures good operation and avoids new clogs due to leakage of molten material between the heatbreak and the nozzle.

https://www.longer3d.com/products/lk5-pro-fdm-3d-printer

By Academy | March 28, 2023
Hotends comparison - MK8 vs V6 - LONGER
Hotends comparison - MK8 vs V6

The Hotend is the part of an FDM 3D printer that deals with the melting and deposition of molten plastic material. Therefore a Hotend is composed of a Nozzle that deals with depositing the molten material, a Heatblock that deals with the melting of the material, and a Heatbreak that keeps the hot zone separate from the cold area of the Hotend. The Heatbreak can be equipped with a Heatsink, equipped in turn with a fan.

Hotends come in various shapes and sizes, however common and popular types are the Hotend MK8 and Hotend e3d V6.

 

Hotend MK8

The Hotend MK8 are composed of Nozzle, Heatblock, Heatbreak and Heatsink, and provide for the insertion of the PTFE tube in beat with the nozzle. This implies that the PTFE tube is inserted inside the Heatbreak, then the filament flows inside the PTFE tube and reaches the nozzle directly, without intermediate zones.

 

The PTFE tube, in the part in contact with Nozzle and Heatblock, tends to reach the same melting temperature set for the filament, however this is not a problem as PTFE supports temperatures up to 300 C very well, well beyond the normal printing temperatures of PLA, PETG and ABS. On the other hand, the higher the printing temperature, the greater the amount of heat that the Heatbreak must dissipate; in fact, when the heat is not dissipated properly, it tends to rise inside the PTFE causing the filament to melt in areas far from the Nozzle, resulting in obstructions that prevent the filament from passing. For this reason, it is necessary to accompany the Heatbreak with a heatsink heatsink with fan, in this way the heat passage is quickly interrupted.

The Hotend MK8 is ideal for printing most filaments, however for printing more technical materials it may be unsuitable. In fact, printing filaments that require a high temperature, such as polyamide (nylon), also require a large dissipation capacity; however, the structure of the MK8 Heatsink is not able to dissipate much heat, moreover the PTFE tube present inside the Heatbreak also begins to lose its characteristics, thus causing obstructions.

 

Hotend e3d V6

The Hotend e3d V6 are composed of Nozzle, Heatblock, Heatbreak and Heatsink, and provide both the insertion of the PTFE tube in batting with the nozzle and the PTFE tube in batting with the Heatbreak. This implies that the PTFE tube is inserted inside the Heatbreak, then the filament flows inside the PTFE tube and reaches the nozzle directly, without intermediate zones, or the PTFE is beaten at the entrance of the Heatbreak and the filament passes through an all-metal area before reaching the nozzle. Therefore, the Hotend e3d V6 provides two different configurations of Heatbreak, or the classic Heatbreak with PTFE or a Fullmetal Heatbreak.

 

The Hotend e3d V6 has an improved heatsink, with a larger dissipative surface, so it is ideal for printing most filaments, including printing more technical materials. In fact, even the printing of filaments that require a high temperature, such as polyamide (nylon), can be performed thanks to the great dissipation capacity; moreover, if the temperature is excessive for the PTFE tube present inside the Heatbreak, then it is possible to use a Fullmetal Heatbreak that does not suffer from temperature problems.

 

Unfortunately, due to its large size, it is often very difficult to install a Hotend e3d V6 on smaller printers, for this reason the default installation of a Hotend MK8 is often preferred, which is able to perform almost any printing option for common users with a small footprint.

 https://www.longer3d.com/products/lk5-pro-fdm-3d-printer

 

 

By Academy | March 28, 2023
LONGER RAY 5 Newest 20W vs. 10W vs. 5W, What's the Differences? Which One to Buy? - LONGER
Ray più lungo 5 più recente 20W vs. 10W contro 5W, quali sono le differenze? Quale acquistare?

Se vuoi incidere correttamente praticamente qualcosa, avrai bisogno di un incisore laser. Questo perché i laser sono estremamente precisi. Poiché vendono gli incisori Ray5 5W e Ray5 10W, le persone più a lungo sono un posto fantastico per iniziare. Le dimensioni, la potenza e la lunghezza focale del raggio sono le distinzioni chiave tra loro; Tuttavia, possono incidere una quantità significativa di materiale.

Se stai cercando uno strumento per incidere l'oggetto selezionato, dovresti scegliere il modello più adatto alle tue esigenze. Bene, non preoccuparti, dato che siamo qui per parlarti dei tre tipi di base di incisione laser, delle loro differenze e una guida per scegliere quale ti si addice in base alle tue esigenze. Senza ulteriori indugi, tuffiamoci subito.

Cos'è il potere laser?

Prima di conoscere i tre tipi di poteri laser, indaghiamo solo cosa sia il potere laser. La forza del laser è ciò che determina quanta energia viene presa dal foglio di lavoro. La regola di base è che quando la potenza laser è aumentata, anche l'angolo di curvatura cresce, raggiunge un picco e poi ricomincia a cadere mentre la potenza laser aumenta ulteriormente.

Maggiore è la potenza laser, più calore viene assorbito, il che si traduce in una temperatura di picco più elevata e, quindi, una quantità più incredibile di deformazione plastica sulla superficie scansionata. Questo fa aumentare l'angolo di piega. Dopo aver raggiunto il massimo, l'angolo di piega inizia a diminuire a causa di un aumento della potenza laser.

Questo è principalmente il risultato di due fattori. In primo luogo, lo scioglimento avviene nella regione che viene irradiata a una potenza più elevata e l'energia termica che viene applicata viene utilizzata nella trasformazione di fase piuttosto che nella flessione del materiale. In secondo luogo, quando la potenza è aumentata, aumenta anche la temperatura di picco della superficie del fondo della nave.

Ciò si traduce in una riduzione della differenza tra la deformazione plastica sulla superficie superiore e la superficie inferiore, che a sua volta porta a una riduzione dell'angolo di curvatura a maggiore potenza.

In termini di potenza laser ottica, la stragrande maggioranza delle più popolari incisori laser sul mercato ora si inserisce solo in due categorie primarie, vale a dire la potenza ottica 5W e 10W. I moduli nella prima categoria contengono ciascuno un singolo diodo laser. Al contrario, il Moduli da 10W contenere ottiche ingegnose che combinano la luce laser da due diverse sorgenti di diodi laser, con conseguente potenza di uscita che è due volte più forte di quella dei moduli a basso potere.

Cosa significa esattamente la "W"?

La wattaggio è uno degli aspetti più significativi da considerare quando si discute di tagliatori laser. È qualcosa che dovrai specificare quando acquisti per la prima volta la macchina ed è il fattore che influisce sulla potenza di taglio e sulla velocità del progetto.

Quando la valutazione della potenza è aumentata, aumenta anche il flusso di energia. Quando si tratta di taglierini laser, avere un laser da 20 W anziché un laser da 5 W consentirà all'energia di trasferire a una velocità sostanzialmente più veloce.

Puoi vedere una sequenza di laser all'interno della testa di a Raggio più lungo 5 Se lo fai a pezzi e guardi il laser al suo interno. Tuttavia, consigliamo vivamente di non farlo. La testa del laser da 20 W è costituita da quattro laser da 5 W, tutti puntati nella stessa direzione e concentrati attraverso la testa del laser.

Perché? Lo scopo è quello di generare più potenza e più energia da un singolo raggio laser.

Differenze tra Raggio più lungo 5  5W vs. 10W vs. 20W

Il raggio 5 più lungo 5W, 10W e 20 W condividono tutte alcune caratteristiche in comune tra loro. D'altra parte, ci sono un numero comparabile di differenze. Concentriamoci su ciò che differenzia queste macchine in una serie di confronti testa a testa in modo da poter prendere la decisione più informata possibile su quale acquistare.

Potenza della testa laser

Prima di andare oltre, c'è qualcosa che deve essere chiarito: sebbene la testa laser sia l'unica differenza tra i due, ha un impatto significativo sul funzionamento del tuo Incisore laser a raggio più lungo, e qui esamineremo queste differenze.

Indipendentemente da quale opzione di potenza con cui segui, il Ray 5 più lungo ti fornirà lo stesso framework, sensori e allegati da utilizzare. La testa laser è l'unico componente diverso.

Lo staff di Ray 5 più lungo si riferisce ad esso come un "modulo plug-and-play" nella loro spiegazione. Hai solo bisogno di due cavi e dieci minuti del tuo tempo per l'aggiornamento da un taglierina laser da 5W o da 10 W a un modello da 20 W, che ti dà una maggiore potenza di taglio.

Le variazioni della potenza laser dipendono da quale testa laser usi e dai diversi materiali che puoi tagliare. Puoi migliorare la potenza del laser da 5 W o 10 W acquistando a Modulo 20W per aggiungere ad esso.

Per dirla in altro modo, se vuoi un 20 W, hai la possibilità di acquistarne uno appositamente progettato a tale scopo. L'unica scelta a tua disposizione se si desidera un 5W o 10 W è acquistare la macchina nel suo stato attuale.

I vantaggi sono significativi anche se l'adeguamento è piuttosto semplice. Le sezioni successive riguardano la differenza che fa il semplice scambio di testa.

Rapidità del completamento del progetto

Il tempo esatto necessario per finire il progetto dipende da alcuni fattori diversi:

  • Rapidità del percorso
  • Precisione nella profondità di taglio, selezione di materiali e complessità nel design.
  • La profondità dell'incisione o del taglio.

I restanti tre di questi cinque parametri non dipendono in alcun modo dal cutter laser. La velocità con cui il cutter laser completa il tuo lavoro dipende esclusivamente dalla velocità di routing e dalle impostazioni della velocità di taglio.

In questa competizione, le velocità delle varie rotte non differiscono l'una dall'altra. La velocità di routing del 5W, 10w, E 20W è tutto 10000 mm/min, che è molto più veloce delle generazioni precedenti.

Dove ci troviamo con la profondità di taglio adesso? Qui è dove vedrai una deviazione significativa dalla norma. Un laser con 10 W di potenza può tagliare quasi esattamente il doppio di un laser con 5 W di potenza. Rispetto al 10W, il 20 W ha il doppio della profondità di taglio.

Ciò indica che esiste una differenza teorica nella profondità di taglio che equivale a quattro volte maggiore quando si passa da 5W a 20 W.

Ray 5 più lungo afferma che la differenza potrebbe essere molto diversa a seconda del materiale utilizzato:

Quando si tratta della quantità di tempo, ci vorrà per realizzare un progetto. Un cutter laser da 20 W farà il lavoro più rapido, seguito da un taglierina laser da 10 W e, infine, un cutter laser a raggi da 5 W sarà il più lento.

Spazio per fare tagli e area di lavoro più lunghi ray 5

Mentre il telaio di ogni raggio più lungo è uguale, anche le aree di taglio delle varie configurazioni sono abbastanza comparabili. Il raggio più lungo 5 5W e il raggio più lungo 5 da raggi da 10 W offrono esattamente la stessa area di taglio, misurando 400x400mm (15,75 × 15,75 pollici).

Sebbene la testa laser sul 20 W sia significativamente più grande di quella trovata sul 10 W, l'area di taglio è marginalmente ridotta. L'area di taglio per un laser da 20 watt è di 375 × 375 mm (14,76 × 14,76 pollici).

Sebbene la differenza non sia enorme, è comunque abbastanza significativa da indicare che i taglieri laser da 5W e 10 W hanno un piccolo vantaggio in questa categoria.

Alternative ai materiali (capacità di taglio)

Un ulteriore aspetto dell'argomento collegato alla potenza laser sono i molti tipi di materiali con cui si può lavorare. Mentre si tenta di incidere o tagliare determinati materiali, sono necessarie forza e forza significativamente maggiori.

Puoi lavorare con una maggiore selezione di materiali quando hai un 20 W. Puoi anche lavorare con materiali più sostanziali, che apre ancora più possibilità per i tipi di progetti che puoi sviluppare.

IL Ray5 20W Viene dotato di un potente modulo laser con un output da 20 W. Inoltre, questa macchina presenta la più recente generazione di tecnologia di miglioramento laser, che aumenta la sua capacità di taglio. Può tagliare 0,002 pollici (0,05 mm) di acciaio inossidabile, nonché 0,59 pollici (15 mm) di legno di pino e 0,31 pollici (8 mm) di acrilico in un singolo passaggio.

A causa dei recenti progressi nella tecnologia laser compressa, il punto laser può ora essere piccolo quanto 0,08*0,1 mm2, rendendo possibile l'incisione di opere d'arte con linee più sottili, consistenza più chiara e dettagli più attraenti. E l'interfaccia assistita dall'aria è riservata, il che consente di abbinare facilmente un'ampia varietà di pompe d'aria a più superfici igieniche.

Mentre l'utilizzo del cutter da 5 W, del metallo, della ceramica e della pietra diventa molto più impegnativa con cui lavorare e, in tutta onestà, l'ambiente di potenza 5W è più comunemente usato per l'incisione di quanto non sia per il taglio. Quando si utilizza un taglierina laser da 5 W o 10 W, la maggior parte delle persone aderisce al taglio di materiali realizzati in legno, carta, plastica, pelle, scheda PCB, ossido di alluminio, placcatura non riflettente e metallo laccato.

Pensa a ottenere il laser da 20 W se si desidera lavorare con una varietà di vari tipi di materiali. Ai fini dei nostri progetti, abbiamo tagliato con successo anche i boschi più densi.

Precisione

Cosa dovresti fare se hai bisogno di disegnare linee su un componente estremamente sottile e accurato? In questo scenario, ti consigliamo vivamente di evitare di usare la testa laser da 20 W, anche se il rischio è ancora relativamente basso.

La dimensione del punto del laser da 20 W è 0,08 × 0,10 mm. Immagina che il punto laser sia il punto in cui è puntato un puntatore laser. Se il raggio usa questo puntatore laser per tagliare, vorrai che la punta sia più piccola possibile.

Le macchie laser del 5W sono 0,08 × 0,08 mm e i 10 W sono laser 0,06 × 0,06 mm. Il punto laser del laser da 20 W è significativamente più grande.

Quindi, se hai bisogno di un componente accurato, dovresti attenersi al 5W o al 10W.

Diversa capacità di incisione

I pezzi possono anche essere incisi con questo tipo di taglierina laser, che è un'altra funzione utile di queste macchine. Una piccola quantità di materiale viene rimossa dalla superficie superiore per produrre disegni tramite incisione. Poiché l'incisione non va in profondità come il taglio, la potenza richiesta non è così significativa.

IL Ray 5WLa capacità di incisione è significativamente migliorata grazie a un punto laser più piccolo e una precisione più elevata rispetto al suo predecessore. Poiché il componente necessita di un solo passaggio con il laser e la velocità di routing è la stessa su tutta la linea per queste tre possibilità, il 5W è quello che dovrebbe essere scelto.

Se hai bisogno di incidere e tagliare lo stesso oggetto, andando con il Laser da 10 W. Potrebbe essere la scelta migliore per te. Possiede un eccellente equilibrio di forza di taglio e precisione.

Crea creazioni colorate

La capacità di generare incisioni colorate sul metallo è una capacità speciale che è esclusiva per 20 w Ray 5 più lungo e non può essere trovato su nessun'altra macchina. Qual è il meccanismo dietro questo? A causa della maggiore potenza fornita dal Laser 20W, è in grado di ossidare il metallo a vari tassi. È difficile da credere quando lo vedi di persona.

L'alterazione della potenza del laser provoca l'ossidazione del metallo a vari tassi, producendo infine una varietà di colori. È efficace su ottone, rame, acciaio inossidabile e titanio oltre all'alluminio. L'unica differenza è la gamma di colori disponibili per te (che dipende dal tipo di metallo).

I laser con output da 5W e 10 W non sono abbastanza potenti da svolgere questo compito. Avrai bisogno del modello da 20 W se desideri creare vivide incisioni sul metallo.

Prezzi Laser Ray 5 più lungo, disponibile in 5W, 10W e 20W.

Cosa dovrei aspettarmi di pagare per questo? La distinzione non è così bizzarra come può sembrare inizialmente:

  • Raggio più lungo 5w: $ 299,99
  • Raggio più lungo 10w: $ 449,99
  • Ray più lungo 20W: $ 899,99

Questi sono attualmente in sconto. Quindi è giunto il momento di effettuare un acquisto.

Quale materiale diverso può tagliare o incidere di alimentazione laser diversa?

Il taglio usando un laser può essere fatto su un'ampia varietà di materiali, tra cui ma non limitato a legno, carta, plastica, vetro, pelle, schiuma, tessuti e metalli. Selezionando i parametri più adatti per il laser, si può garantire che i tagli prodotti siano di alta qualità e abbiano una finitura superficiale liscia. D'altra parte, non si suggerisce di utilizzare un taglierina laser per tagliare determinati materiali, come vinile o ABS.

Per produrre il taglio desiderato, un taglierina laser opera concentrando un raggio laser ad alta energia sulla superficie della sostanza che sta tagliando. Questo fa bruciare ed evaporare il materiale.

Quando viene lavorato da un laser, ogni materiale mostra le proprie caratteristiche uniche e richiede una configurazione unica dei vari parametri laser per ottenere un taglio pulito con un alto livello di finitura superficiale.

A parte questo, la capacità di un laser di tagliare il materiale è determinata dal tipo di laser che viene impiegato.

In generale, il taglio laser funziona meglio con materiali naturali come legno, carta, pelle e metalli, tra le altre cose, perché questi materiali non producono o solo una quantità limitata di sottoprodotti potenzialmente pericolosi.

Takeaway finale

Il miglior risultato possibile sarà raggiunto con una potenza laser su misura specificamente al materiale costituente. Ad esempio, la carta incisione utilizza una potenza significativamente inferiore rispetto al legno di incisione in media. È necessaria una quantità minima di potenza per ottenere un'incisione uniformemente omogenea in acrilico e non è molto profonda. Inoltre, avere una potenza più elevata consente un lavoro più rapido durante la lavorazione dei materiali di incisione.

Il software consente un controllo semplice della potenza di output del laser. Tuttavia, l'hardware ha un ruolo nel determinare la massima potenza. I seguenti criteri devono essere soddisfatti: sei in grado di elaborare un'ampia varietà di materiali con una macchina laser che ha un'alta potenza laser, che ti offre molta libertà.

By Academy | February 23, 2023